Kraton Power system upgrade advice for my needs?

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Dauransx

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Location
Frankfort KY
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
I know this has been asked many many times but its all confusing sense im a noob to this RC hobby but i feel all the same questions are unique from another so im looking for dead on opinions on a power system/gears i would need to meet my needs to save me days/weeks of research and like 1-2min of yours.



What i do not want my Kraton V2 for.
Im NOT looking to bash and will not bash and im not looking to do on road speed runs. Meaning i will NOT hit ramps or any kind of jumps. Will try to keep all wheels on the ground at all times, if i can, at lease 2 wheels. Not looking to do on road speed runs, thats boring...

What i want my Kraton V2 for.
What im wanting to do is off road speed ripping on grass and dirt and paved roads with an insane 0-60mph past what the V2 kraton can do stock. Wanting to hit 60mph+ on road and close to that as possible off road, power is key (shredding) without swapping gears. Only proven stable builds, no test builds, one thats good on limiting heat and that will last. Run time is key to. Also, no DiY builds, only plug and play sort of speak.

This power impressed me but thats a lighter truck.

My confusion on Kv numbers.
The Kv numbers is whats confusing to me and all i know (i think i do?) is smaller the Kv number the less power and the faster it can go and vice versa with a higher Kv number and then the gears.

What i have now.
Stock Kraton V2 and SMC 9200mAh 90c 6s lipo.

What im looking to buy in order once a month.
SRC terrain crushers, Hitec HS-7950TH servo and then the recommended power system with gears that anyone here says. I will maybe mix smaller upgrades in the mix, like barrings and servo mount and such. My budget is $150ish a month, maybe $250.


Thanks in adv
Shout out to Rich Duperbash, its a me Hoochi Koochi (your youtube comments)
 
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Leopard 1480kv HW QUICRUN 150a
16/50 gearing, red seal bearings is my set up,, I can run 6s without breaking / overheating. Full packs.

Shim your diffs.
 
Leopard 1480kv HW QUICRUN 150a
16/50 gearing, red seal bearings is my set up,, I can run 6s without breaking / overheating. Full packs.

Shim your diffs.
So that build blows all terrain away? kinda like that linked vid? The grass i have is thick, even when cut.
 
Too bad URC is still down. There was a thread there where a guy basically did exactly what you want - but on a Tekno truggy chassis. From what I remember, he ran a HUGE Posidon motor, - maybe a 4092, low KV (1300kv?) 6s, and gearing around 25/35. Badlands tires reinforced with fishing line. His truck would run +60 on mowed park grass, and the motor stayed cool. Poster name was "Overkill", I think.

Edit -
Here is his thread over on RCTech. I had a few details wrong. :)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-trucks/851664-tekno-et48-build-tp-4070-a.html
 
Too bad URC is still down. There was a thread there where a guy basically did exactly what you want - but on a Tekno truggy chassis. From what I remember, he ran a HUGE Posidon motor, - maybe a 4092, low KV (1300kv?) 6s, and gearing around 25/35. Badlands tires reinforced with fishing line. His truck would run +60 on mowed park grass, and the motor stayed cool. Poster name was "Overkill", I think.

Edit -
Here is his thread over on RCTech. I had a few details wrong. :)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-trucks/851664-tekno-et48-build-tp-4070-a.html
Thanks, tho thats overkill *Cough* but sexy just like how i like it. Tho i don't know how this will be with a kraton?
 
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Here is my build thread for Kraton:
https://arrmaforum.com/threads/my-build-kraut-cast-x.2999/

I spent many hours testing a few different motors, Castle 1515 2200kv, Poseidon 2200kv, and Nero motor 2000kv.

The stock electronics are limited if you're looking for the ultimate. I absolutely LOVE the Castle MMX ESC because you can program everything as an infinite curve with PC software. Not just a few steps like the others.

Motor KV is a tough subject. A lower KV motor turns slower with more torque, a higher KV motor turns faster with the same input voltage, but provides less torque. With a heavy rig like the Kraton, you need some torque, and you can't go too high on the KV or the weight will put too much load on the motor causing it to heat up. Study the specs of different motors and combos carefully. Low KV motors, like under 1500KV are generally for 1/5 scale RC because they are heavy, and need torque. Higher KV motors, like over 2500kv, are more for lighter street cars and buggies, and many are only rated for 4S power.

I landed on the 2000KV Nero stock motor because I had a Nero and I liked the punch of it, even in a heavier truck. I was overheating the 2200KV motors with 15T pinion, and still getting pretty close on 13T pinion.

The MMX allowed me to utilize the data logging feature to analyze that I was pulling too many amps through the system, and found the pinion/motor sweet spot that kept the peak amps close to the 150A rating of the ESC, actually top peaks are a little above, but with 15T pinion I was pulling over 180A peaks, which would overheat the ESC and shut down at 240F.

It's all a delicate balance of KV and pinion. Choice of tires will also affect the "gearing" of the truck, as taller heavier tires will have the same effect as using a larger pinion, it generates more load on the motor.

Tires - for ultimate off-road I would not choose SRC wheels/tires. They look cool, but they really don't have that much traction, they are better for the street, but don't hit a curb or bump too hard because the rims will crack due to lack of cushion from the low profile tires, just like a real car. I would recommend the Arrma Backflip tires, or possibly the Proline Badlands (original 3.8) Although the Badlands look too small on a Kraton to me, they might give you the best balance with whatever gearing to accomplish more speed. The Backflips are essentially a copy of the very popular Badland tread design, but in a larger scale to suit the Arrma trucks. This tread has a ton of grip, but won't get easily worn away on the street like most track racing type tires. Really fur ULTIMATE off-road speed, you may want some pin type tread racing truggy tires, as they are light and grippy off-road, but the tread will be gone in a matter of seconds sliding on pavement. Something similar to stock Talion tires.

One of my challenges is that the off-road conditions in my area mainly contain very thick grass. This is a tough load for the electronics, and made me land on a 13T pinon without overheating. On more solid dirt areas, you may be able to go up a tooth or two with this same setup.
 
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