Infraction Pre-inspection how to list/video

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abakja1

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Outcast 4s
  3. Senton 6s
Hi everyone,
A month ago I didn't have any Arrmas, today I have 3 of them all from Facebook and new black BR 3s on order from Horizon.
Question is, is there a how to video or list to use as reference as I luckily found one new in box Infraction V2 on Facebook yesterday and want to do a checklist/preventative maintenance check before I run it.
I have rcs, but not totally familiar with Arrmas and troublespots or useful helpful tips (other than servo)
 
I've never seen a bid for this, there may be somewhere but all you need to do is check that there is nothing broken, verify all screws are tight and verify there are no fluid leaks from your shocks and diffs. Then you can power it up and check your electronics for functionality. Finally road test it, drive it to make sure all the settings are good for you and change what is not then you should be good to go ;)
 
I've never seen a bid for this, there may be somewhere but all you need to do is check that there is nothing broken, verify all screws are tight and verify there are no fluid leaks from your shocks and diffs. Then you can power it up and check your electronics for functionality. Finally road test it, drive it to make sure all the settings are good for you and change what is not then you should be good to go ;)
Exactly check screws , and when on the road the first 5 to 10 min I am going slow adjusting the trim . My first time out I do not drive the car hard. After 1st drive inspect with body off. Especially the spur/diff pinion and motor mount.
 
Exactly check screws , and when on the road the first 5 to 10 min I am going slow adjusting the trim . My first time out I do not drive the car hard. After 1st drive inspect with body off. Especially the spur/diff pinion and motor mount.
Yeah, I find it helps prevent breakage to run it "nicely" for the first couple of batteries. Wear the plastics so it isn't sticking or binding BEFORE sending it 20 feet in the air ;)
 

Thank you for this link,..
I know about checking the screws, adjusting trim, adjusting ESC to my preference especially for steering and changing brake +1 from factory setting, glued on tires on rims, and now more importantly the set screw and pinion as Ive been reading improperly not tightening or adjusting mesh correctly from the factory. I also seen a lot of poorly cut out bodies with jagged edges which ruin the craftsmanship.

Anyways, I do a dry run once I do the above and try to "hear" or see if I need to be concerned with the diff, but I don't think I could though.
On my other RCs, I could tell if the mesh on the pinion and gear was too tight, but with the Arrmas, since they are much more powerful and have that metal to metal "sound", its difficult for me to tell,...I wouldnt even know about diff oil on what a properly oiled diff looks like or weight to use...

Im more concerned about learning about the diffs if anything, but Ill learn as I go as I get accustomed to Arrmas..
 
The center diff on my V2 is half full. The front and rear diffs were practically empty.
 
I’m not keen on buying from someone I do not know, be it new or not. But this isn’t what this post is about so...

Whether or not you’re buying new or used, I would highly recommend stripping entire rig apart. Yes, even new rigs are known to have defects. This applies to all RC companies, not just Arrma RTR products.

Fasteners: All fasteners threaded in metal parts require threadlock (aka Loctite). Just a drop will so nicely. Allow to cure/dry for 24 hours. No, do not use teflon tape or silicone. Don’t laugh as the level of ignorance on this planet is mindblowing.

Since I’m on the topic of fasteners, use Allen cap screws when possible. Button head screws are to be used when a low profile head is required. Why? The height of the ACS head has less chances of being stripped... especially when threadlock has been applied.

Don’t install stainless steel fasteners in high-stress locations. Anyone telling you different has no idea what they’re talking about. There is a damn good reason why jet engines only use steel fasteners; use this piece of info to your advantage.

Bearings: Let’s face it, bearings used in RTRs are garbage and need to be trashed ASAP. That shiny new rig that you just brought home? Ya... trash those bearings. Rubber shielded (2RS) units are the way to go for bashing.

Diff oil/grease: Simple. Dump the oil/grease, wash all parts, inspect for damages, shim, dry assemble and then add lube of choice.

Hope this helps.
 
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Hi everyone,
A month ago I didn't have any Arrmas, today I have 3 of them all from Facebook and new black BR 3s on order from Horizon.
Question is, is there a how to video or list to use as reference as I luckily found one new in box Infraction V2 on Facebook yesterday and want to do a checklist/preventative maintenance check before I run it.
I have rcs, but not totally familiar with Arrmas and troublespots or useful helpful tips (other than servo)

You had a good post....exactly why I am checking mine before I run it....diff cut more empty from Horizon Hobby
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diff-fluid-weight.27132/post-377178
 
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