Typhon Pre-purchase questions

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drkern88

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
Hello,

I'm coming into this hobby with limited knowledge. I had been into fpv drones for a while, and built my own 3" quad. But I'm moving over to the terrain based fun.

I'm considering the Typhon 3s maybe new or perhaps used.

Any thoughts, or information to share? Appreciated!


UPDATE
I got one! Typhon 3s. I went to the hobby store to check them out. They had the stenton, vorteks, granite and typhon all on display. I really consiconsidered all of them but I just love the look of the typhon and I couldn't help it. The hobby shop only had the premo batteries for sale so I'll have to wait until tmrw when my batteries get delivered. I'm getting 2 5200mah 80c 2s and 1 5500mah 80c 3s.

It's kinda embarrassing to be a 42yo man feeling excited like a kid again. What to do first? A speed run down the street? Tear up the backyard? Build a jump?
 
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Typhon 3s is a great place to start or big rock. Only problem with the Typhon is limited space under the body if you want to make changes later. BR is the same chassis and arms just MT wheels and truck body. Many people actually put the wing on the BR for rear protection and looks. Welcome!
 
Hello,

I'm coming into this hobby with limited knowledge. I had been into fpv drones for a while, and built my own 3" quad. But I'm moving over to the terrain based fun.

I'm considering the Typhon 3s maybe new or perhaps used.

Any thoughts, or information to share? Appreciated!
What kind of running are u wanting to do? Bashing or speed running?
 
I prefer the Typhon 3S over the other 3S cars. It's the only one with 17mm hexes. Its smaller diameter tyres also are the easiest on the diffs, and the body is also the cheapest if you ever need to replace it

I still prefer the 6S rigs over the 3S ones though. They have a more aggressive noise, some hefty weight to them and more of thrill factor. They've got the most aftermarket support too. The 3S cars are definitely an awesome starting point though!
 
Hello,

I'm coming into this hobby with limited knowledge. I had been into fpv drones for a while, and built my own 3" quad. But I'm moving over to the terrain based fun.

I'm considering the Typhon 3s maybe new or perhaps used.

Any thoughts, or information to share? Appreciated!
Kinda depends how much space you have and what you like to do. I think the best thing you could do is try out some different vehicles if possible. For sure hit up a hobby shop and at least see/feel them out in person.
 
All Arrma 3S are very good.

What do you want to do with it? If you plan on driving it on various surfaces, the Typhon may not be the most versatile of the line up because of the smaller tires. The best do-it-all RC of the Arrma 3S line is probably the BigRock.
 
Kinda depends on what you want from it. I love my typhon 3s, it's nimble quick enough, and I've found mine really tough 🤦‍♂️
It flies pretty well but a friend has just got a bigrock and it's a basket case compared to the typhon, wheelies, flips, good fun, can't go far wrong with it 👍
 
Typhon 3s is a great place to start or big rock. Only problem with the Typhon is limited space under the body if you want to make changes later. BR is the same chassis and arms just MT wheels and truck body. Many people actually put the wing on the BR for rear protection and looks. Welcome!
Great thank you! I see that now they are nearly identical
What kind of running are u wanting to do? Bashing or speed running?
Hello, for starters just bashing around my backyard. It's pretty big and lends itself well to an improvised rc track. Speed isn't at the top of my list
 
Great thank you! I see that now they are nearly identical

Hello, for starters just bashing around my backyard. It's pretty big and lends itself well to an improvised rc track. Speed isn't at the top of my list
The Typhon is probably the slowest of the 3s line, I could only get mine to 45mph.
 
The Typhon 6s is the glass slipper of the Arrma lineup. It can be modded slightly in several ways to span disciplines. The slab chassis is much easier to work on/with. It's big enough to behave nicely while being shorter and narrower than other 8th scale models. I'd skip the 3s as being low bang for the buck in comparison.
 
If you have time, watch some youtube videos on the 3S Typhon. Big Rock and the Vorteks (its in between those two vehicles). See how they perform and maintenance. Take your time to decide. Welcome to this part of RC.
 
If you have time, watch some youtube videos on the 3S Typhon. Big Rock and the Vorteks (its in between those two vehicles). See how they perform and maintenance. Take your time to decide. Welcome to this part of RC.
After watching some vids comparing the Arrma 4x4 3s cars, I still like the Typhon the best. There's something about the big rock that I just don't like at all. It's my least favorite. With the Vorteks coming in second. I just love the Typhon... maybe it's the wing.
The Typhon 6s is the glass slipper of the Arrma lineup. It can be modded slightly in several ways to span disciplines. The slab chassis is much easier to work on/with. It's big enough to behave nicely while being shorter and narrower than other 8th scale models. I'd skip the 3s as being low bang for the buck in comparison.
If only I could explain to my wife why I spent $1k on a new r/c car
What kind of running are u wanting to do? Bashing or speed running?
I'm looking for just some backyard bashing. I'm thinking of turning my yard into a technical type of RC track. There's plenty of space, but not enough for long wide open straights so top speed isn't a priority
 
After watching some vids comparing the Arrma 4x4 3s cars, I still like the Typhon the best. There's something about the big rock that I just don't like at all. It's my least favorite. With the Vorteks coming in second. I just love the Typhon... maybe it's the wing.

If only I could explain to my wife why I spent $1k on a new r/c car

I'm looking for just some backyard bashing. I'm thinking of turning my yard into a technical type of RC track. There's plenty of space, but not enough for long wide open straights so top speed isn't a priority
Typhon TLR roller if you can afford it. It’s a track car.
 
I put a wing on my Big Rock and Granite. They look better with them. Not realistic though.
 
After watching some vids comparing the Arrma 4x4 3s cars, I still like the Typhon the best. There's something about the big rock that I just don't like at all. It's my least favorite. With the Vorteks coming in second. I just love the Typhon... maybe it's the wing.

If only I could explain to my wife why I spent $1k on a new r/c car

I'm looking for just some backyard bashing. I'm thinking of turning my yard into a technical type of RC track. There's plenty of space, but not enough for long wide open straights so top speed isn't a priority
Right on. I run a Big Rock. But if u like the typhon u can do all the same things to it. Truggify it. Heres a BR with a Typhon wing.
2021-12-03-04-03-28.jpg
 
Let's be honest this hobby is a slippery slope, I started with the Big Rock 18months ago and now have Big Rock, Granite, 2 Sentons and a Notorious built from a Kraton EXB, and I'm sure there are many such stories on here. So may as well accept it now that your first car is unlikely to be your last. The Noto is awesome for sure but the 3S line up is a great place to start and the inevitable cost of the learning curve is cheaper. My Sentons are widened and run fairly low grip buggy wheels for power-sliding fun so are essentially Typhons with a different body. The lighter less grippy wheels are far gentler on the drive chain too. The sentons are fun for head to head racing because the body over the wheels means you can make contact without the wheels getting tangled up, out of all the cars they also seem to have a tendency to land on their wheels more when you roll. Senton and Granite are too narrow track out of the box and roll over too much. Sentons collect mucky big time - Scorched Parts fenders help a lot but do give it a tendency to take flight at speed.

Some of my learning points on 3S
1) Tighter slipper = more wheelies but also far harder on components
2) Motor bearings wear and if not caught will toast the motor - check for any sideways play on the pinion regularly and lubricate the bearing
3) Don't land with power on, the force will rip the u-joints out and once they pop they will keep doing so
4) Shoo goo and tape the shell will make it last a lot longer (Typhons don't need this as much)
5) Grass can be very grippy and drive style can lead to popped u-joints - full bore take offs with tight slipper, sliding round backwards the then full throttle to pull away etc. a bit of mechanical sympathy goes a long way, the cars have a lot of power
6) Parts break more easily in the cold
7) Spin dry the tyres if they've got wet to help the foams last
8) Bearings will jam if they get wet and aren't dried and lubricated, the outer wheel ones are hardest to get to, the motor has the power to overcome this sometimes and the car will just feel slow, but will also cause other problems. Worth a quick roll test before running - lift one end and roll, check both in air wheels spin easily and equally, repeat other end.
9) The tiny screws that hold the driveshafts to the axles stubs and diff inputs should be thread-locked but the factory often seems to miss this and then they come off when running, the screw is captive so you won't typically loose anything, just brings and annoying end to running. It is worth checking any Arrma over out of the box to make sure everything is done up right.
10) I cut a hole in the chassis under the main gear to let the muck out, others try to seal the slipper housing to the chassis to stop it getting in. Doing one or other and cleaning in there regularly will stop you eating main gears
11) The slipper often needs shimming to stop movement front to back that allows the main gear to contact and wear the slipper housing. If it does the black dust that it creates dries the motor bearing and causes it to fail fast. Open the slipper housing regularly to check for dirt and wear.
12) When you break stuff upgrade parts are often available but tend to pass the problem down the chain, asking yourself if there is something about your driving style you can change tends to be far cheaper (not saying upgrades don't have their place when you want to push the car harder/further)
13) Accept that the cars do break when you're having fun and that a 2nd,3rd,4th car is the best medicine :)
 
Let's be honest this hobby is a slippery slope, I started with the Big Rock 18months ago and now have Big Rock, Granite, 2 Sentons and a Notorious built from a Kraton EXB, and I'm sure there are many such stories on here. So may as well accept it now that your first car is unlikely to be your last. The Noto is awesome for sure but the 3S line up is a great place to start and the inevitable cost of the learning curve is cheaper. My Sentons are widened and run fairly low grip buggy wheels for power-sliding fun so are essentially Typhons with a different body. The lighter less grippy wheels are far gentler on the drive chain too. The sentons are fun for head to head racing because the body over the wheels means you can make contact without the wheels getting tangled up, out of all the cars they also seem to have a tendency to land on their wheels more when you roll. Senton and Granite are too narrow track out of the box and roll over too much. Sentons collect mucky big time - Scorched Parts fenders help a lot but do give it a tendency to take flight at speed.

Some of my learning points on 3S
1) Tighter slipper = more wheelies but also far harder on components
2) Motor bearings wear and if not caught will toast the motor - check for any sideways play on the pinion regularly and lubricate the bearing
3) Don't land with power on, the force will rip the u-joints out and once they pop they will keep doing so
4) Shoo goo and tape the shell will make it last a lot longer (Typhons don't need this as much)
5) Grass can be very grippy and drive style can lead to popped u-joints - full bore take offs with tight slipper, sliding round backwards the then full throttle to pull away etc. a bit of mechanical sympathy goes a long way, the cars have a lot of power
6) Parts break more easily in the cold
7) Spin dry the tyres if they've got wet to help the foams last
8) Bearings will jam if they get wet and aren't dried and lubricated, the outer wheel ones are hardest to get to, the motor has the power to overcome this sometimes and the car will just feel slow, but will also cause other problems. Worth a quick roll test before running - lift one end and roll, check both in air wheels spin easily and equally, repeat other end.
9) The tiny screws that hold the driveshafts to the axles stubs and diff inputs should be thread-locked but the factory often seems to miss this and then they come off when running, the screw is captive so you won't typically loose anything, just brings and annoying end to running. It is worth checking any Arrma over out of the box to make sure everything is done up right.
10) I cut a hole in the chassis under the main gear to let the muck out, others try to seal the slipper housing to the chassis to stop it getting in. Doing one or other and cleaning in there regularly will stop you eating main gears
11) The slipper often needs shimming to stop movement front to back that allows the main gear to contact and wear the slipper housing. If it does the black dust that it creates dries the motor bearing and causes it to fail fast. Open the slipper housing regularly to check for dirt and wear.
12) When you break stuff upgrade parts are often available but tend to pass the problem down the chain, asking yourself if there is something about your driving style you can change tends to be far cheaper (not saying upgrades don't have their place when you want to push the car harder/further)
13) Accept that the cars do break when you're having fun and that a 2nd,3rd,4th car is the best medicine :)
@Paul777 nailed it with all 13 of these points! 👌
 
Let's be honest this hobby is a slippery slope, I started with the Big Rock 18months ago and now have Big Rock, Granite, 2 Sentons and a Notorious built from a Kraton EXB, and I'm sure there are many such stories on here. So may as well accept it now that your first car is unlikely to be your last. The Noto is awesome for sure but the 3S line up is a great place to start and the inevitable cost of the learning curve is cheaper. My Sentons are widened and run fairly low grip buggy wheels for power-sliding fun so are essentially Typhons with a different body. The lighter less grippy wheels are far gentler on the drive chain too. The sentons are fun for head to head racing because the body over the wheels means you can make contact without the wheels getting tangled up, out of all the cars they also seem to have a tendency to land on their wheels more when you roll. Senton and Granite are too narrow track out of the box and roll over too much. Sentons collect mucky big time - Scorched Parts fenders help a lot but do give it a tendency to take flight at speed.

Some of my learning points on 3S
1) Tighter slipper = more wheelies but also far harder on components
2) Motor bearings wear and if not caught will toast the motor - check for any sideways play on the pinion regularly and lubricate the bearing
3) Don't land with power on, the force will rip the u-joints out and once they pop they will keep doing so
4) Shoo goo and tape the shell will make it last a lot longer (Typhons don't need this as much)
5) Grass can be very grippy and drive style can lead to popped u-joints - full bore take offs with tight slipper, sliding round backwards the then full throttle to pull away etc. a bit of mechanical sympathy goes a long way, the cars have a lot of power
6) Parts break more easily in the cold
7) Spin dry the tyres if they've got wet to help the foams last
8) Bearings will jam if they get wet and aren't dried and lubricated, the outer wheel ones are hardest to get to, the motor has the power to overcome this sometimes and the car will just feel slow, but will also cause other problems. Worth a quick roll test before running - lift one end and roll, check both in air wheels spin easily and equally, repeat other end.
9) The tiny screws that hold the driveshafts to the axles stubs and diff inputs should be thread-locked but the factory often seems to miss this and then they come off when running, the screw is captive so you won't typically loose anything, just brings and annoying end to running. It is worth checking any Arrma over out of the box to make sure everything is done up right.
10) I cut a hole in the chassis under the main gear to let the muck out, others try to seal the slipper housing to the chassis to stop it getting in. Doing one or other and cleaning in there regularly will stop you eating main gears
11) The slipper often needs shimming to stop movement front to back that allows the main gear to contact and wear the slipper housing. If it does the black dust that it creates dries the motor bearing and causes it to fail fast. Open the slipper housing regularly to check for dirt and wear.
12) When you break stuff upgrade parts are often available but tend to pass the problem down the chain, asking yourself if there is something about your driving style you can change tends to be far cheaper (not saying upgrades don't have their place when you want to push the car harder/further)
13) Accept that the cars do break when you're having fun and that a 2nd,3rd,4th car is the best medicine :)
So much good info there!
 
My Typhon 3s was my first real basher, and it has been good to me. I've upgraded it quite a bit: none of the upgrades were necessary for my style of driving (I rarely jump it), but they are more for personal taste than anything else. It's been a fun (and expensive) upgrade path, but it is worth every penny I've spent on it. And along the way I've learned a lot about upgrading and maintaining ARRMA 3s vehicles.

Tpyhon 3s Truggy.jpg
 
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