Printing ABS and PETG

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Hatchbox ABS, 230C hot end, 100C bed

Slow it down half the speed and raise temp on extruder to 240 and try again. Find a first layer test stl and use that when testing

 

[Harriot10]

Hatchbox ABS, 230C hot end, 100C bed

It still did the same crap with 240c and slower print speed. I guess the printer has something against ABS I gave up and put some Sunlu clear PLA on there. Printing fine again.

On another note, these vacuum seal bags I bought on Amazon work like a charm

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

It still did the same crap with 240c and slower print speed. I guess the printer has something against ABS I gave up and put some Sunlu clear PLA on there. Printing fine again.

On another note, these vacuum seal bags I bought on Amazon work like a charm

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Did you do a first layer test? If temp and speed is ok only thing left it adhesion. May have to adjust your offset for a better squish. Are you using an adhesive for it? Honestly abs is really pushing the limits without an enclosure. It likes to warp a lot. Try printing it on a raft to prevent that a little. But that first layer test is going to be your friend when switching to a new material or even the same material in a different brand. No 2 filaments are the same. It can be the exact same brand and material the color added to it will change how it works. A lot of people will say it doesn’t matter but trust me I have different profiles for different colors because it makes that much of a difference.

 

[Harriot10]

Did you do a first layer test? If temp and speed is ok only thing left it adhesion. May have to adjust your offset for a better squish. Are you using an adhesive for it? Honestly abs is really pushing the limits without an enclosure. It likes to warp a lot. Try printing it on a raft to prevent that a little. But that first layer test is going to be your friend when switching to a new material or even the same material in a different brand. No 2 filaments are the same. It can be the exact same brand and material the color added to it will change how it works. A lot of people will say it doesn’t matter but trust me I have different profiles for different colors because it makes that much of a difference.

I looked briefly for a layer test on Thingiverse, but didn’t find much. I preheated and tried to print the same file. It’s not even getting through the first line of the brim before messing up.

Obviously you know your stuff, so I’ll invest in the enclosure next.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

I looked briefly for a layer test on Thingiverse, but didn’t find much. I preheated and tried to print the same file. It’s not even getting through the first line of the brim before messing up.

Obviously you know your stuff, so I’ll invest in the enclosure next.

Are you using a bed adhesive? Do you have an up close pic of the brim I can see? I have a gut feeling you can lower your z offset a little. Did you do a extruder calibration for the abs?

 

[Harriot10]

Are you using a bed adhesive? Do you have an up close pic of the brim I can see? I have a gut feeling you can lower your z offset a little. Did you do a extruder calibration for the abs?

I use hairspray on glass for adhesion. I did not do an extruder calibration, I guess I’ll research that. Here’s a pic I zoomed in, hope that helps.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

I use hairspray on glass for adhesion. I did not do an extruder calibration, I guess I’ll research that. Here’s a pic I zoomed in, hope that helps.

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Pic doesn’t help unfortunately but I can tell there is zero bonding to the table even with the hair spray. If you updated the firmware you should have a much better bed leveling setup now as well as live bed leveling. Try to get it as close as you can but remember what worked for pla for you. If that helps set it back to the pla number and change it in your slicer profile for abs. Keep me posted

 

[Harriot10]

PLA printed well with standard settings, just changed the temps and retraction a little.

Really wish I could use something besides PLA, would like something stronger.

 

[Harriot10]

This was another bad print that started shifting several hours into the print. Cell phone/tablet stand. I stopped it once this started happening.

Been printing Sunlu transparent all morning and everything looks great.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

This was another bad print that started shifting several hours into the print. Cell phone/tablet stand. I stopped it once this started happening.

Been printing Sunlu transparent all morning and everything looks great.

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Is that top the shifting? Post a pic of the stl file pic and what Orientation did you have a printing in

 

[Harriot10]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492738/files

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492738/files

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Oh ok that shift says a lot. Check the tension and condition of your table belt. It looks like it is more of a skip then a shift. Home every thing out and the use the motion option and jog it all over fast after a min or so dial it back to zero and see if it stayed at zero.

 

[Harriot10]

Rear skirts turned out good too. PLA is definitely too brittle for most RC parts though. Can’t run RC’s today, it’s too cold and windy. Getting use out of the printer though.

 

[sideshowgaz]

Have you tried printing a temperature tower? There is one built into Cura that reduced the temp 5 degrees every 40 layers or so, meaning you can identify the perfect temp for each new brand of filament. Also, I had loads of success with a £20 food dehydrator for fixing old wet filaments then I store them in the same vacuum bags you have. Finally, the best thing I did when moving to PETG/ABS was to buy 3DLAC Pro bed adhesion spray! It has made the biggest difference of all, and it is cheap and will last for years

 

[Harriot10]

Have you tried printing a temperature tower? There is one built into Cura that reduced the temp 5 degrees every 40 layers or so, meaning you can identify the perfect temp for each new brand of filament. Also, I had loads of success with a £20 food dehydrator for fixing old wet filaments then I store them in the same vacuum bags you have. Finally, the best thing I did when moving to PETG/ABS was to buy 3DLAC Pro bed adhesion spray! It has made the biggest difference of all, and it is cheap and will last for years

Thanks, I’m having pretty good success with the Sunlu dryer. I’ll try to print a temp tower today and see what kind of results I get. I know the PLA looks a lot better since being dried. Those bags are great, but a couple seem to be not holding.

Wow that spray is pricey!

3DLAC 3D Printing 3D Printer Adhesive for Adhesion to Heated Print Bed, Spray, 400 ml 13.52 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQ4KXZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HNGTVZVFSC2RR6DQF7RP

 

[ChemEng]

Rear skirts turned out good too. PLA is definitely too brittle for most RC parts though. Can’t run RC’s today, it’s too cold and windy. Getting use out of the printer though.

Try printing with TPU (not the super flexy ninjaflex stuff, the higher shore hardness ~95A stuff)... much easier to print and tough as nails. It is perfect for gps/gopro holders and would probably work for those skirts. Still needs to be dry though.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Try printing with TPU (not the super flexy ninjaflex stuff, the higher shore hardness ~95A stuff)... much easier to print and tough as nails. It is perfect for gps/gopro holders and would probably work for those skirts. Still needs to be dry though.

Pctpe would be the best material for things like skirts and guards. If you haven’t tried it yet it’s worth playing with it. I always keep it in my arsenal.

 

[joshual1177]

I have an ender 3 pro and have read that you don't want the power supply inside the enclosure when printing abs. So the one on Amazon probably isn't a good option. I watched several videos on YouTube of someone building an enclosure using lack tables from Ikea and plexiglass. I already have a stand for mine that I built so I will probably build an enclosure with some plywood and plexiglass. I will also have to buy a dryer for my filament.

The layer shifting is likely due to machine calibration and it moving or being bumped while printing.

 

[ChemEng]

Pctpe would be the best material for things like skirts and guards. If you haven’t tried it yet it’s worth playing with it. I always keep it in my arsenal.

PCTPE is great. So is nylon, but I have found that they are significantly more difficult to print than TPU. TPU doesn't warp and is less susceptable to moisture. BUT If the OP has the capability to print with those filaments then he should. I have found ABS isn't worth the effort and trouble. It warps, strings, cracks along layer lines and it isn't even that durable.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

PCTPE is great. So is nylon, but I have found that they are significantly more difficult to print than TPU. TPU doesn't warp and is less susceptable to moisture. BUT If the OP has the capability to print with those filaments then he should. I have found ABS isn't worth the effort and trouble. It warps, strings, cracks along layer lines and it isn't even that durable.

I would agree. Abs is a material I just don’t ever see myself using again. There isn’t a pure abs most of it is mixed with a polycarbonate to help it. TPU is actually very susceptible to moisture. Probably one of the most Hygroscopic materials I have used yet. Speaking of the OP any luck on that first layer adhesions or shifting?