Pro-Line Racing belted trencher HP 2.8" tires

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I run 4S in it and didn't have too many issues until I put the trenchers on it. 6S isn't really an option on that truck with the plastic slider axles and 1/10th diffs. Silly that they even marketed it as a 6S truck.
Speaking of the plastic center driveshafts, I'm still running them in my 2.0. They have about 2mm of wear in play and this is after almost 200 runs. I run 6 cell lipo and trencher X wide tracks (the gigantar ones) AND a mamba monster along with 1 million weight center diff fluid. I plan on keeping the plastic center driveshafts because in my mind it acts as a little bit of a drivetrain shock absorber under hard conditions because it flexes more than metal. Actually I'm going to have to replace my drivecups long before I replace the center driveshaft. It is a lot bigger than the 1.0's though and it has metal reinforcement around the U joint pins so that's probably why.

And yes I'm wondering who the hell decided 10TH scale diffs were good enough in a truck like an e revo. Not only is it an 8th scale monster truck, it's a pretty big 8th scale MT... bigger than most. I did a side by side to a kraton, it's way more comparable to a Nero in dimensions. I know the 1.0 is a little smaller but cmon... 10TH scale diffs... lol..


Oh well, I'll enjoy my 7th scale differentials now.
 
Speaking of the plastic center driveshafts, I'm still running them in my 2.0. They have about 2mm of wear in play and this is after almost 200 runs. I run 6 cell lipo and trencher X wide tracks (the gigantar ones) AND a mamba monster along with 1 million weight center diff fluid. I plan on keeping the plastic center driveshafts because in my mind it acts as a little bit of a drivetrain shock absorber under hard conditions because it flexes more than metal. Actually I'm going to have to replace my drivecups long before I replace the center driveshaft. It is a lot bigger than the 1.0's though and it has metal reinforcement around the U joint pins so that's probably why.

And yes I'm wondering who the hell decided 10TH scale diffs were good enough in a truck like an e revo. Not only is it an 8th scale monster truck, it's a pretty big 8th scale MT... bigger than most. I did a side by side to a kraton, it's way more comparable to a Nero in dimensions. I know the 1.0 is a little smaller but cmon... 10TH scale diffs... lol..


Oh well, I'll enjoy my 7th scale differentials now.
I'm surprised the center plastic one holds up on the V2. It holds up on my v1 with 4S, but the outer rear ones tend to egg out the joint pretty bad and I always have to keep some on hand. I get a lot more runs with smaller tires though, so I switched back to those. Doesn't land the big jumps as nice... give and take. The other thing the 3.8 trenchers did was compress the shocks too far and I was splitting shock ends.
 
I'm surprised the center plastic one holds up on the V2. It holds up on my v1 with 4S, but the outer rear ones tend to egg out the joint pretty bad and I always have to keep some on hand. I get a lot more runs with smaller tires though, so I switched back to those. Doesn't land the big jumps as nice... give and take. The other thing the 3.8 trenchers did was compress the shocks too far and I was splitting shock ends.

Interesting, this makes me happy I didn't buy an older e revo lol. Here I am thinking I had to sort out a lot of problems... those trucks are just crazy!
 
Good. I've always disliked (almost) all of their ballooning monstrosities of 1/8 truck tires. Yet I own about all of them... Lol
@Stanleybb50 they're actually pretty good tires. Here's the trick...... don't buy them assembled. Line the inside with gorilla tape. Assemble them yourself. They won't balloon up on you?
 
@Stanleybb50 they're actually pretty good tires. Here's the trick...... don't buy them assembled. Line the inside with gorilla tape. Assemble them yourself. They won't balloon up on you?
I'll never understand how that works. My brain says that the tape will let go of the tire as the tire will stretch/balloon and pull away from the tape. Then eventually end up with tires way out of balance because the tape gets bunched up/out of wack. But I know people do it a lot and it seems to work.

Even still, I think if I were to ever do something like that, it would be with kevlar string inside the tire CA'd to the tire. Wouldn't be too hard to do if you turn the tire inside out, then wrap with the string, then CA it around the entire tire. As hard as it was to get the string off the outside of the tire after I CA'd it, I'd have to guess it would hold up well inside the tire.
 
I'll never understand how that works. My brain says that the tape will let go of the tire as the tire will stretch/balloon and pull away from the tape. Then eventually end up with tires way out of balance because the tape gets bunched up/out of wack. But I know people do it a lot and it seems to work.

Even still, I think if I were to ever do something like that, it would be with kevlar string inside the tire CA'd to the tire. Wouldn't be too hard to do if you turn the tire inside out, then wrap with the string, then CA it around the entire tire. As hard as it was to get the string off the outside of the tire after I CA'd it, I'd have to guess it would hold up well inside the tire.
Man I tried that on some 1/5 tires/wheels and it was a frustrating mess! I think IF I were to try again id look for some woven fabric version of the Kevlar.

-Liberty
 
Man I tried that on some 1/5 tires/wheels and it was a frustrating mess! I think IF I were to try again id look for some woven fabric version of the Kevlar.

-Liberty
The last ones I taped were also 1/5th. The HPI Baja 5B. Was known to chew up the foams, so you would glue the foams to the rim, then wrap the foams with tape. The disintegrated anyway and I got aftermarket tires/foams that lasted until I got rid of the buggy.
 
The last ones I taped were also 1/5th. The HPI Baja 5B. Was known to chew up the foams, so you would glue the foams to the rim, then wrap the foams with tape. The disintegrated anyway and I got aftermarket tires/foams that lasted until I got rid of the buggy.
I pulled out the failed attempt of Kevlar string and CA glue, then sewed the tire with black Kevlar kite string. Then CA glued that setup. It held up very well and withstood several 70+ mph speed passes.
 
Seems odd to start the release with 2.8 12mmhex tires. Most trucks that can run these don't really need belted tires. Give is some 3.8MT tires on 17mm hex! ?
Said the same thing to myself. Why 2.8's first? I'm sure marketing has something to do with that. And the fact that PL probably sells more 2.8's in general. Interesting that a 17mm hub is available though. And, it is a pretty large 2.8 at that. Just slightly smaller diameter than my 3.8 Badlands. I can see it being practical for some types of 6S bashing using the 17mm hub adapter. Only rated to 70MPH at 5K RPM wheel speed. Maybe that's the sweet spot for most 1/10 scale MT bashing...?
My phone convo. with PL about 3 weeks ago discussed this release. I was asked not to disclose it. In all fairness, there are competitors to deal with. I obliged. I respect that. But I did ask all about them. This belted tire was requested some time ago on a thread here directed to PL by AF member(s). PL loves feedback...
 
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I hope the 3.8 belted tires have a higher speed rating of 70mph or it's a deal breaker for me. I need a tire that I can bash with off-road, but also hit pavement and hold a fairly straight line into the high 70's, low 80's with no changes.
Backflips are manageable to 73-74mph on road, but that's the very upper limit before deflection and ballooning become a game of point-shoot-pray, before inevitably steering itself off the road or sideways.
 
Speaking of the plastic center driveshafts, I'm still running them in my 2.0. They have about 2mm of wear in play and this is after almost 200 runs. I run 6 cell lipo and trencher X wide tracks (the gigantar ones) AND a mamba monster along with 1 million weight center diff fluid. I plan on keeping the plastic center driveshafts because in my mind it acts as a little bit of a drivetrain shock absorber under hard conditions because it flexes more than metal. Actually I'm going to have to replace my drivecups long before I replace the center driveshaft. It is a lot bigger than the 1.0's though and it has metal reinforcement around the U joint pins so that's probably why.

And yes I'm wondering who the hell decided 10TH scale diffs were good enough in a truck like an e revo. Not only is it an 8th scale monster truck, it's a pretty big 8th scale MT... bigger than most. I did a side by side to a kraton, it's way more comparable to a Nero in dimensions. I know the 1.0 is a little smaller but cmon... 10TH scale diffs... lol..


Oh well, I'll enjoy my 7th scale differentials now.
I have a 2.0 too, and initially bought those MX38 Badlands, which I will only run on the Revo since it has diffs now that make the Arrma ones look like a toy. The main transmission is also way beefy for a "1/10th" scale truck. Also like you I run the plastic center driveshaft, which I've never had any issues with. The bigger dog bones, 20M wt. Center, 100k front & rear, coupled with those grippy Badlands make it so I've had more of a problem with the Prolines holding up to the Revo. That's what I'm more excited about, as soon as I saw the announcement yesterday & went to site I saw that not only did they have plastic 1/8th 17mm hubs for the Trenchers (which are sold out already), they have aluminum 17mm hubs for these. If Proline makes a whole line of interchangeable hub rims I would just have to invest once in buying them, and forget about ever stripping a hub again. ?

BTW does anyone wanna buy a set of MX38s??
These ones, they're pretty cool, and famous!?
IMG_20190525_144702.jpg
 
Those tires are discontinued from the website? Hm... what are the other alternatives that's good for a truggified typhon?
 
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