Kraton Project Custom Chassis Super Stretched Dual Motor 6s "Goliath"

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StephenSchandelmayer

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Arrma RC's
  1. Gorgon
  2. Mojave 4s
  3. Outcast 4s
  4. Typhon 6s
Sup dudes! I recently built my dual chassis stretched K4s v2 and it came out great. I love it very much and its a blast to drive.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...h-a-6s-center-diff-and-a-fireteam-body.56130/

But it had me thinking the whole time, what if I did this with 6s parts and really made it pretty nuts? So the idea began to come to life last night. I went out and got some sheet aluminum to begin making my own chassis. I also wanted it to be slightly longer than the 4s truck because in theory this should have a lot more power and I want it to be able to put it to the ground. That being said I had a fireteam chassis laying around and it measures 19.5 inches from front to back, Goliath chassis is 30 inches from front to back :devilish:. I got it roughly cut out last night but I need to do some grinding to get it fine tuned along with some other tweaks for strength and what not. I did not use a super high grade aluminum on this first attempt because I didn't want to spend a bunch if I ended up not enjoying it for whatever reason. But I do plan on bracing it in a few different ways along with the normal chassis braces and a T2T brace. So it might end up being strong enough since this isn't a sending vehicle.

The truck next to it is a kraton that will be the donor car for this project. It will end up having an outcast 8s wing. Not sure about a body yet. Don't know if I want to go the same route as my other stretch and put a fireteam body on. I will probably figure out something different for it.

The idea currently is to run a dual 1717 MMX8s setup on this. I considered a 8s setup but I have always wanted a dual motor car and this seems fitting to be the one to have it. The other question is to either run a scorched or pps dual mount or have 2 "center" diffs that sit closer to the front and back and have them just feed the front and rear diffs independently. I like the second option better in my head because I can imagine an awesome layout to do so and that way I can run shorter shafts. Both options would be sweet either way. I suppose the dual mount might be better though because it would allow me to still have a center diff. Either way I am super pumped to keep working on this!!

chassis 1.jpg



chassis 2.jpg
 
Sup dudes! I recently built my dual chassis stretched K4s v2 and it came out great. I love it very much and its a blast to drive.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...h-a-6s-center-diff-and-a-fireteam-body.56130/

But it had me thinking the whole time, what if I did this with 6s parts and really made it pretty nuts? So the idea began to come to life last night. I went out and got some sheet aluminum to begin making my own chassis. I also wanted it to be slightly longer than the 4s truck because in theory this should have a lot more power and I want it to be able to put it to the ground. That being said I had a fireteam chassis laying around and it measures 19.5 inches from front to back, Goliath chassis is 30 inches from front to back :devilish:. I got it roughly cut out last night but I need to do some grinding to get it fine tuned along with some other tweaks for strength and what not. I did not use a super high grade aluminum on this first attempt because I didn't want to spend a bunch if I ended up not enjoying it for whatever reason. But I do plan on bracing it in a few different ways along with the normal chassis braces and a T2T brace. So it might end up being strong enough since this isn't a sending vehicle.

The truck next to it is a kraton that will be the donor car for this project. It will end up having an outcast 8s wing. Not sure about a body yet. Don't know if I want to go the same route as my other stretch and put a fireteam body on. I will probably figure out something different for it.

The idea currently is to run a dual 1717 MMX8s setup on this. I considered a 8s setup but I have always wanted a dual motor car and this seems fitting to be the one to have it. The other question is to either run a scorched or pps dual mount or have 2 "center" diffs that sit closer to the front and back and have them just feed the front and rear diffs independently. I like the second option better in my head because I can imagine an awesome layout to do so and that way I can run shorter shafts. Both options would be sweet either way. I suppose the dual mount might be better though because it would allow me to still have a center diff. Either way I am super pumped to keep working on this!!

View attachment 259172


View attachment 259173
Looks like a skateboard!!😍
 
Sup dudes! I recently built my dual chassis stretched K4s v2 and it came out great. I love it very much and its a blast to drive.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...h-a-6s-center-diff-and-a-fireteam-body.56130/

But it had me thinking the whole time, what if I did this with 6s parts and really made it pretty nuts? So the idea began to come to life last night. I went out and got some sheet aluminum to begin making my own chassis. I also wanted it to be slightly longer than the 4s truck because in theory this should have a lot more power and I want it to be able to put it to the ground. That being said I had a fireteam chassis laying around and it measures 19.5 inches from front to back, Goliath chassis is 30 inches from front to back :devilish:. I got it roughly cut out last night but I need to do some grinding to get it fine tuned along with some other tweaks for strength and what not. I did not use a super high grade aluminum on this first attempt because I didn't want to spend a bunch if I ended up not enjoying it for whatever reason. But I do plan on bracing it in a few different ways along with the normal chassis braces and a T2T brace. So it might end up being strong enough since this isn't a sending vehicle.

The truck next to it is a kraton that will be the donor car for this project. It will end up having an outcast 8s wing. Not sure about a body yet. Don't know if I want to go the same route as my other stretch and put a fireteam body on. I will probably figure out something different for it.

The idea currently is to run a dual 1717 MMX8s setup on this. I considered a 8s setup but I have always wanted a dual motor car and this seems fitting to be the one to have it. The other question is to either run a scorched or pps dual mount or have 2 "center" diffs that sit closer to the front and back and have them just feed the front and rear diffs independently. I like the second option better in my head because I can imagine an awesome layout to do so and that way I can run shorter shafts. Both options would be sweet either way. I suppose the dual mount might be better though because it would allow me to still have a center diff. Either way I am super pumped to keep working on this!!

View attachment 259172


View attachment 259173

Love it!!
Going to be EPIC X2 !!!

I think you should do a hybrid version of your 2nd option-
Using Long (155mm) center driveshafts ,one for each motor & center diff so you can move the motors closer to each other -in the middle of your Goliath chassis.
So that way you can make a bracing plate to secure BOTH motor/diff housing to each other ,for added stiffness ,in addition to a custom Center Brace of course.** ;)



And, don't forget to take More photos of your Design Process... We love to see More of that! 🦾








** If you're needing a custom Ultra light weight carbon fiber center brace.
I can make one that's approximately 820mm long (max length).
 
Long enough chassis for a 6x6 desert racer!😉
View attachment 259195
I have thought about a 6x6 arrma before. It would be such a sweet vehicle but powering all the tires might prove to be a bit tricky.....maybe the next project 🤣
Awesome, another great build idea!
Looking forward to it.
Thank you! I am as well, should be quite fun if it all works out. Since you are a very technical person, how needed do you think the front chassis tilt is for the steering? I can do it, but of course it would be easier if I didn't need to. I would assume it makes a serious difference since its on all the other chassis.
Love it!!
Going to be EPIC X2 !!!

I think you should do a hybrid version of your 2nd option-
Using Long (155mm) center driveshafts ,one for each motor & center diff so you can move the motors closer to each other -in the middle of your Goliath chassis.
So that way you can make a bracing plate to secure BOTH motor/diff housing to each other ,for added stiffness ,in addition to a custom Center Brace of course.** ;)



And, don't forget to take More photos of your Design Process... We love to see More of that! 🦾








** If you're needing a custom Ultra light weight carbon fiber center brace.
I can make one that's approximately 820mm long (max length).
Thats not a bad idea as well actually.....But a dual mount from scorched or pps just look so pretty it might be hard to venture away from those. I am bad about taking pictures in the moment thats for sure, get a bit wrapped up in the process 🤣 The carbon brace will probably be happening, I will get back to you on that for sure.
 
I have thought about a 6x6 arrma before. It would be such a sweet vehicle but powering all the tires might prove to be a bit tricky.....maybe the next project 🤣

Thank you! I am as well, should be quite fun if it all works out. Since you are a very technical person, how needed do you think the front chassis tilt is for the steering? I can do it, but of course it would be easier if I didn't need to. I would assume it makes a serious difference since its on all the other chassis.

Thats not a bad idea as well actually.....But a dual mount from scorched or pps just look so pretty it might be hard to venture away from those. I am bad about taking pictures in the moment thats for sure, get a bit wrapped up in the process 🤣 The carbon brace will probably be happening, I will get back to you on that for sure.

The kick up angle impacts the caster angle and some of the Ackerman dynamics.
AKA Steering "feel" and high speed stability....

I would recommend looking at making a 3D printed wedge that can simulate the kick up.
 
The kick up angle impacts the caster angle and some of the Ackerman dynamics.
AKA Steering "feel" and high speed stability....

I would recommend looking at making a 3D printed wedge that can simulate the kick up.
......... @Tex Koder hop to it buddy! 🤣

Whats your reason for that instead of lifting the chassis?
 
......... @Tex Koder hop to it buddy! 🤣

Whats your reason for that instead of lifting the chassis?
Just assuming that bending the chassis is not ideal.
That was my plan for using a carbon fiber chassis where you cannot bend it...
 
Just assuming that bending the chassis is not ideal.
That was my plan for using a carbon fiber chassis where you cannot bend it...
True that, I thought about carbon for this actually and ultimately didn't do it because this was cheaper and the bending part was an issue as well. But a little outside of the box thinking solves that. hmmmmmm
 
True that, I thought about carbon for this actually and ultimately didn't do it because this was cheaper and the bending part was an issue as well. But a little outside of the box thinking solves that. hmmmmmm
I would say if you can bend the front then I would go that route. It simplifies things and you will have plenty of other obstacles during this build to think on.
I think you may need a pretty robust upper chassis brace.

One thing I had thought about lately for my 200+ build is some sort of 90 deg. angle iron or carbon fiber version to stiffen the chassis. I would utilize them as sides of the battery tray, but their primary function is to keep the chassis from flexing.
 
Well one thought is to have a carbon plate bolted to the bottom of the chassis. That would help quite a bit I would imagine. Either that or a bar of steel/carbon/or 7075 running down the center on the bottom like the other "bash bars" that are sold already. Upper brace will absolutley need to be pretty tough, but again this isnt being sent real hard but I will still be bracing very tough regardless. Also considered ribs like M2C makes for the 8s chasiss that are bolted down the center. Plus at the end of the day I need to make one out of a better aluminum, but thats what first drafts are for, work out some kinks. The sheet of metal I bought had enough left to trace out and cut another chassis that I will actually make slightly wider and then I will have a nice template for whatever comes next.
 
I would say if you can bend the front then I would go that route. It simplifies things and you will have plenty of other obstacles during this build to think on.
I think you may need a pretty robust upper chassis brace.

One thing I had thought about lately for my 200+ build is some sort of 90 deg. angle iron or carbon fiber version to stiffen the chassis. I would utilize them as sides of the battery tray, but their primary function is to keep the chassis from flexing.

You're reading my mind!

I've Finally received the Square carbon fiber tube I ordered back in October...
Now I'm in the process of figuring out the best (Safe) way to 'trim' it to make angle irons out of them..
Need to create some sort of slicing clamps to be able to hold it securely while I try to cut a sliver off two of the corners ,lengthwise.
 
You're reading my mind!

I've Finally received the Square carbon fiber tube I ordered back in October...
Now I'm in the process of figuring out the best (Safe) way to 'trim' it to make angle irons out of them..
Need to create some sort of slicing clamps to be able to hold it securely while I try to cut a sliver off two of the corners ,lengthwise.
Maybe running a router along it while setup in some wood jig to hold it all in place.
That would be tricky....
 
Maybe running a router along it while setup in some wood jig to hold it all in place.
That would be tricky....

I'm thinking more of a custom 3D jig/guide and rip it down the table saw..
 
I'm thinking more of a custom 3D jig/guide and rip it down the table saw..
Yep that would work assuming your table saw has many teeth (finishing fine cut)
You can also get saw blades similar to the cut off wheels for dremmel tools. I have one of these in a 10 or 10.5" size if you might need it.

1669751643477.png


Sorry @StephenSchandelmayer for the thread derailment...
 
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Yep that would work assuming your table saw has many teeth (finishing fine cut)
You can also get saw blades similar to the cut off wheels for dremmel tools. I have one of these in a 10 or 10.5" size if you might need it.

View attachment 259228

Sorry @StephenSchandelmayer for the thread derailment...
All good!! It's all about the love of custom stuff. You are the king of that
 
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