Project "SCYLLA"

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I think an Xmaxx body might actually fit yours just right. I will post some pictures here with a tape measure next to my xmaxx body so you can at-least get an idea of the dimensions.

That would be great, thanks.


Also, when you're ready for all wheel steering (AWS), let me know..
I've thought up some solutions already that was intended for Mr. @StephenSchandelmayer 's Goliath.

I believe once it's implemented it'll take your rig to a totally another level. It would be freakish to see such a large vehicle steer as tightly as a small 1/10 rig 👊🦍


***************

Oh and regarding your concern over weight and how the shock springs will handle it...
Talk to @StephenSchandelmayer ,he found some great solutions for his Goliath's weight problem.

I'm not sure i would want to go all wheel steer on a 6 wheeler, I'd definitely consider rear wheel steer if the front axle steering isnt enough for it to handle well. Would love to hear your ideas on the steering situation.
I do like to go quite fast off road, so wouldn't want it to become a twitchy mess at 50/60mph off road.


Do you play smite?!?
I love scylla so much I will probably name my daughter that if I ever have one :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I don't, wasn't aware there was a character by that name. It also means "female dog" or female dog in Greek.
That isn't your rig in the second picture is it? That's a super clean install.

It censored that, but you get the jist.
 
That would be great, thanks.




I'm not sure i would want to go all wheel steer on a 6 wheeler, I'd definitely consider rear wheel steer if the front axle steering isnt enough for it to handle well. Would love to hear your ideas on the steering situation.
I do like to go quite fast off road, so wouldn't want it to become a twitchy mess at 50/60mph off road.




I don't, wasn't aware there was a character by that name. It also means "female dog" or female dog in Greek.
That isn't your rig in the second picture is it? That's a super clean install.

It censored that, but you get the jist.
It's my rig and thank you! Scylla in smite is actually based off the Greek mythology. All the characters are gods etc from all the different pantheons. Pretty cool! They even have Charybdis and made it scylla sister 🤣.
 
First build thread here so go easy on me.

Will be a slow build as and when i have the time and funds.

View attachment 276547


Scylla is a monster in Greek mythology, supposedly with 6 heads, said to be dog or wolf like.

I will leave you with just this picture to start with, i'm sure you can figure out where this is going.

View attachment 276548
Looking at this picture again it seems you are going to be doing another motor on that back piece. If you plan on doing another motor then you obviously need another ESC and battery. Seems like that rear piece is going to start getting awfully tight. Have you also considered what shaft you are going to use back there from your "center diff" to the rear diff? Yes you are increasing the width by what looks like an inch on both sides but I am just trying to run through my head how you plan on fitting a lipo in there along with everything else
 
You've hit the nail on the head there. So the front 66% is just a standard outcast with extra width, the extension on the rear is going to be a motor mount, motor, "centre diff"(rear). The "centre diff"(rear) will just be a locker from Scorched RC, so effectively there will be no "centre diff"(rear), just the spur and pinion driving the prop shaft, which will be a stock outcast rear prop shaft (which reminds me i need to find and order one of those). The esc for the rear motor will be mounted next to it the other side of the prop shaft. The extra width is exactly as you mused an attempt to gain enough storage space for the extra lipo required to run the second motor and esc. The original battery tray will be binned and a custom 3d printed one manufactured to maximise the available space.


I had two ways of doing this in my head, the way i preferred would have been to convert the diff for the second axle to have another bearing and out put shaft to drive the new rear axle, so it would have been more of a traditional 6x6 with single motor. My concern would have again been the weight, with only the one motor to drive it it would become woefully underpowered, so then i have to fit a large can motor, possibly 8s. I feared this would be too much especially for the modified second axle diff, and i would spend my life rebuilding stripped differentials.

I don't know if i made the right choice, and probably never will know.
 
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You've hit the nail on the head there. So the front 66% is just a standard outcast with extra width, the extension on the rear is going to be a motor mount, motor, "centre diff"(rear). The "centre diff"(rear) will just be a locker from Scorched RC, so effectively there will be no "centre diff"(rear), just the spur and pinion driving the prop shaft, which will be a stock outcast rear prop shaft (which reminds me i need to find and order one of those). The esc for the rear motor will be mounted next to it the other side of the prop shaft. The extra width is exactly as you mused an attempt to gain enough storage space for the extra lipo required to run the second motor and esc. The original battery tray will be binned and a custom 3d printed one manufactured to maximise the available space.


I had two ways of doing this in my head, the way i preferred would have been to convert the diff for the second axle to have another bearing and out put shaft to drive the new rear axle, so it would have been more of a traditional 6x6 with single motor. My concern would have again been the weight, with only the one motor to drive it it would become woefully underpowered, so then i have to fit a large can motor, possibly 8s. I feared this would be too much especially for the modified second axle diff, and i would spend my life rebuilding stripped differentials.

I don't know if i made the right choice, and probably never will know.
Only one way to find out..keep going and see what happens at the end..👍😁
 
Been thinking about this build and just started looking at the pictures again. First thing is I saw you were saying you were going to run a scorched locker on the rear motor, if you already have it then great! But if you don't then you could go the cheaper route which is what I did and get these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2547444225...JylWtYAS6u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

They have held up for Goliath so far. Haven't broken a pin yet or anything. I am also running metal diff cases for them. I have 2 million fluid in the front and rear diffs, which I think I'm going to put earplugs in soon. But these are obviously much cheaper than scorched. I stripped my rear diff recently and got the EXB diffs and damn they are significantly beefier than RTR. I always heard they were but I finally got my first ones and I am impressed.

My next thought is because you are making this so much wider than stock you could actually probably run both 6s batteries on the main chassis and just run the wires to the rear esc. Yeah they might get a little long at that point but you aren't trying to go 150+ mph so 🤷🏼‍♂️. You would probably have to run them between the middle posts and over the center of the middle tower, maybe make a little channel of some sort for them to sit in so they don't fall over and get caught upon the shocks or shafts or something. I guess that's another question to be found out is will you be running 3 sets of body posts or just 2 🤔


Also going back to the "center diffs" I'm wondering if since you are locking the rear center then obviously all the power is going directly to the rear tires. But for the front 66% if you keep a normal center diff you will have it diffing out to the front tires more then the middle tires, wonder if it would benefit you to lock the front center diff in order to have a more even power distribution to all tires, might not really matter too much though.
 
That specific product isn't available here, by the time i pay shipping fees its almost as expensive as the Scorched part, plus they are just a couple of hours up the road so im supporting local RC business.

So you are right, in the fact, that the rear axle gets 50% of total power (100% of one motor) and the front and second axle get 25% of total power each (50/50 split of the remaining motor). I've mused over whether a locker would be best or not in the front centre diff, and i don't know what would be best.

And on the layout you are thinking exactly what i have planned, the reason for the widening of the chassis, what do the say great minds think alike (but fools rarely differ) :ROFLMAO:

Chassis v1layout.jpg


Obviously not to scale


Got the chassis back from local engineer, i don't have the tools to cut out the chassis unfortunately.

She gonna be lardy

PXL_20230207_151652128.MP.jpg


and THICK

PXL_20230207_151524349.MP.jpg



But looking good..


PXL_20230208_162457733.MP.jpg
 
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Well then!! Lucky you to be that closed to scorched, that makes more sense then. That is a seriously good looking chassis you got there buddy!!! THICK, seriously thick. That thing gets me excited just looking at it like that. When you actually have parts on it 💦 Is that 116 Grams?

But jeeze now I wish I took mine to get someone to cut it, that is perfect. Can't wait to see this keep going. My mind is racing for you, I am fully invested 🙌 I have so many more questions but I will keep my mouth shut and let you show us as you progress. This is going to be gnarly.

Snoop Dogg Singing GIF by The Voice
 
That specific product isn't available here, by the time i pay shipping fees its almost as expensive as the Scorched part, plus they are just a couple of hours up the road so im supporting local RC business.

So you are right, in the fact, that the rear axle gets 50% of total power (100% of one motor) and the front and second axle get 25% of total power each (50/50 split of the remaining motor). I've mused over whether a locker would be best or not in the front centre diff, and i don't know what would be best.

And on the layout you are thinking exactly what i have planned, the reason for the widening of the chassis, what do the say great minds think alike (but fools rarely differ) :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 277111

Obviously not to scale

Damn!
You're the second person I've seen recently who's done a great job of outlining a chassis/body!
Nice work 👍



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1676042975049.png


1676042987924.png


So Impressive!

The Only issue/question I have is how are you going to make "room"/dip/hump for the differentials under the diff housings? >> Front, Middle rear, & Rear??
Won't they collide/grind against your custom chassis plate???
PXL_20230119_163844474.MP.png


Are you planning on designing/making some spacers to raise the diff housing enough to clear those portions?
 
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That is 1.16KG, over 3 times the weight of a standard outcast chassis. That's 2.55 Freedom units (lbs).

It will never be able to pull a wheelie with all that weight,
Thank you for that Freedom Unit conversion I do appreciate it lolol. That makes more sense though, knew it couldn't be grams....But honestly man you got 4 tires gripping on the back you MIGHT be able to wheelie. Goliath cannot but its 6 inches longer and its constantly spinning tires so with all that rear grip you might be surprised. But you will have a lot of weight on the front with double 6s batteries. I would assume no wheelies but the 4 tires is going to be an interesting factor.
 
That specific product isn't available here, by the time i pay shipping fees its almost as expensive as the Scorched part, plus they are just a couple of hours up the road so im supporting local RC business.

So you are right, in the fact, that the rear axle gets 50% of total power (100% of one motor) and the front and second axle get 25% of total power each (50/50 split of the remaining motor). I've mused over whether a locker would be best or not in the front centre diff, and i don't know what would be best.

And on the layout you are thinking exactly what i have planned, the reason for the widening of the chassis, what do the say great minds think alike (but fools rarely differ) :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 277111

Obviously not to scale


Got the chassis back from local engineer, i don't have the tools to cut out the chassis unfortunately.

She gonna be lardy

View attachment 277113

and THICK

View attachment 277112


But looking good..


View attachment 277114
Looking sweet 👍
 
Your lady is funny!

In the last pick you can see the dremel and the workstation covered in "man glitter" as my other half loves to call it.

Slap some "Man Glitter" on it!
That sounds like a perfect phase for a bumper sticker decal!

As i stood no chance of stamping/pressing that recess into a chassis this thick i decided to remove the required amount.

View attachment 277128

Gotcha!
Simple & Effective 💪🍺
 
Your lady is funny!



Slap some "Man Glitter" on it!
That sounds like a perfect phase for a bumper sticker decal!



Gotcha!
Simple & Effective 💪🍺
Your going to need something to assist in making that MAN GLITTER stick .I recommend some MAN MAYO 👍🤣🤣
 
One thing i'm still not sure about is the tower to tower braces. I'd like to custom make two carbon ones, but haven't attempted that before. Are there any good guides on this forum or maybe a good you tube tutorial, as i don't really know where to start with them.
 
One thing i'm still not sure about is the tower to tower braces. I'd like to custom make two carbon ones, but haven't attempted that before. Are there any good guides on this forum or maybe a good you tube tutorial, as i don't really know where to start with them.
I custom made my center brace with 2 aluminum bars and they fit perfectly in the bulk head tower brace mounts.
 
One thing i'm still not sure about is the tower to tower braces. I'd like to custom make two carbon ones, but haven't attempted that before. Are there any good guides on this forum or maybe a good you tube tutorial, as i don't really know where to start with them.
@Tex Koder is the guy to ask here.
 
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