Senton Project Senton 3s, Finally Ordered!

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Yes, I did the other two in the power module (as they are shown in the YouTube video showing how to replace all the bearings) but I saw no others in there. Where is the flanged bearing located, and (sorry to be stupid) but which part is the slipper? I saw a video where somebody put an Allen key into the centre part after removing the driveshaft to adjust the tightness of the slipper, so is it that big gear that meshes to the pinion? Presumably inside that big gear is a clutch type mechanism then?
Yep the slipper assembly is held together by a single 2mm hex head screw from the front side. The slipper is what is inside the power module holding the spur gear. You will have to disassemble the slipper to get to the inner bearing. I’m thinking that the old slipper used a normal bearing and the new one uses a flanged bearing. Maybe your kit provided both? I don’t know if another place where you would have a single bearing left, other than you think you replaced all the wheel hubs but missed one? Or one of the diff yokes?
 
Yep the slipper assembly is held together by a single 2mm hex head screw from the front side. The slipper is what is inside the power module holding the spur gear. You will have to disassemble the slipper to get to the inner bearing. I’m thinking that the old slipper used a normal bearing and the new one uses a flanged bearing. Maybe your kit provided both? I don’t know if another place where you would have a single bearing left, other than you think you replaced all the wheel hubs but missed one? Or one of the diff yokes?
Funny enough that's what I've started wondering now. I'm starting to doubt myself and wondering if I missed a hub bearing or a diff bearing. If you asked me then I'd swear blind that I got them all, but I did finish doing it all at about 3am, so it's entirely possible that I missed something. Hopefully if I did it's a hub bearing as that would at least be very easy to swap. Knowing my luck I'll take everything back apart to check and it will just be an extra bearing in the pack. Either put in by mistake or a spare.
 
Funny enough that's what I've started wondering now. I'm starting to doubt myself and wondering if I missed a hub bearing or a diff bearing. If you asked me then I'd swear blind that I got them all, but I did finish doing it all at about 3am, so it's entirely possible that I missed something. Hopefully if I did it's a hub bearing as that would at least be very easy to swap. Knowing my luck I'll take everything back apart to check and it will just be an extra bearing in the pack. Either put in by mistake or a spare.
Well it will be good practice hunting it down.
 
Well it will be good practice hunting it down.
Hmm, well I had tried to message Fast Eddy asking them what the bearings are for, but their contact form is broken. The Captcha thing doesn't work. Keeps saying it has failed even after you've ticked it successfully.

Since both bearings are the same size, just with and without a flange it could even be for setting or adjusting the slipper in some way perhaps? Would be nice if some sort of guide was given with the bearings to help you out.
 
OK, so I'm not going to worry about the bearings at the moment as all the main ones are done. The ones in the slipper are basically sealed in there, so I guess are not really going to be much of an issue, right? And I'm a bit worried about opening the slipper up and it all springing out and me not being able to put it back together properly again and set it correctly. Might be better if I just leave it alone...

So I put the Dusty Motors cover on tonight (quite necessary on the Senton I think) and tried to set the trim on the steering servo. I used the tips I was given here earlier (thanks jondilly1974!), but the wheels continued to move until about 80 - 85%, so the servo still makes a strained sound when turning right at the most extreme end of the steering lock. It's not an awful sound and it's a cheap servo, so maybe it's normal? It only makes the sound turning one direction. I made sure to trim the wheels centrally before starting to set the endpoints. I put the servo saver on the servo centrally when I installed it also, but due to having to use the Kembrough screw to attach the new servo saver to the steering arm, I had to screw it down from above, rather than up from below, which meant pulling the servo saver out sideways to screw it into the arm and then pushing it back under the servo when installing. As such, the trim setting isn't dead central for the wheels to be central. (Then again, that's the point in having a trim, right?)

Anyway, I took a couple of videos, though admittedly the videos mask the sound somewhat because they're just mobile phone videos.

Here they are. In the videos the strained sound comes when the wheels turn to the left of the screen (because the truck is facing the camera).


 
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Any suggestions on something faster? I took the suggestion from a YouTube video, but when installing it I also noticed it isn't waterproof, so I'm not entirely sold on it. Sadly it's a bit past the returns date on Amazon, but it wasn't overly expensive so I'm not totally against changing it out for something better.

Ideally something waterproof and faster/higher quality. That one is rated for 20kgs, supposedly. Probably overkill, but I guess the higher load rating is better?
 
Any suggestions on something faster? I took the suggestion from a YouTube video, but when installing it I also noticed it isn't waterproof, so I'm not entirely sold on it. Sadly it's a bit past the returns date on Amazon, but it wasn't overly expensive so I'm not totally against changing it out for something better.

Ideally something waterproof and faster/higher quality. That one is rated for 20kgs, supposedly. Probably overkill, but I guess the higher load rating is better?

I'm partial to Savox servos. I have a Savox 1210SG in my Senton and it works great turning the big monster truck tires.
 
Any suggestions on something faster? I took the suggestion from a YouTube video, but when installing it I also noticed it isn't waterproof, so I'm not entirely sold on it. Sadly it's a bit past the returns date on Amazon, but it wasn't overly expensive so I'm not totally against changing it out for something better.

Ideally something waterproof and faster/higher quality. That one is rated for 20kgs, supposedly. Probably overkill, but I guess the higher load rating is better?
The Amazon DS3225 is what most here run.
 
Thanks guys. Just searched both on Amazon and the Savox is like 3 - 6 times the price of the DS3225, so I'll probably go with the latter if that ought to be good enough.

One question, is Amazon the brand of the DS3225, or is that just where people buy it from and any DS3225 servo is fine? Only there are these two both on Amazon, both seem to be the same apart from the colour, but one is around half the price of the other...
 

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Thanks guys. Just searched both on Amazon and the Savox is like 3 - 6 times the price of the DS3225, so I'll probably go with the latter if that ought to be good enough.

One question, is Amazon the brand of the DS3225, or is that just where people buy it from and any DS3225 servo is fine? Only there are these two both in Amazon, both seem to be the same apart from the colour, but one is around half the price of the other...
There are probably 20 brands and they are all likely the same. We say Amazon cuz that’s where we find them.
 
Out of interest, when people soak their suspension components in WD40 to make the plastic more flexible, do they always remove them from the truck? Or can you get away with carefully spraying a bit on them and letting it soak in overnight and then wiping off the excess?

Or is that unlikely to have the desired effect?
 
Trying to cut out the shell ready for the future fitment of the Granite wheels and tyres today, but also thought I'd give the Senton a quick drive around the house quickly since we're stuck indoors today.

I noticed that it doesn't seem to like reversing. Sometimes it reverses fine, but other times I can push the trigger forwards all the way and nothing happens. What's likely causing that? I'm indoors and the truck is right in front of me, so it's not a signal issue. It's within touching distance.
 
Its the remote. The truck runs great. But the remote does not React well with it. Here is a video of a guy who addresses it.

He also gives the link for the blue remote which makes a huge difference. Lmk if this helps.
 
Its the remote. The truck runs great. But the remote does not React well with it. Here is a video of a guy who addresses it.

He also gives the link for the blue remote which makes a huge difference. Lmk if this helps.
Thanks, but it's actually the blue remote that I'm using! (Albeit mine has orange bits on it, rather than blue, but it's the DumboRC one.)

Perhaps it's some sort of setup issue?
 
Thanks, but it's actually the blue remote that I'm using! (Albeit mine has orange bits on it, rather than blue, but it's the DumboRC one.)

Perhaps it's some sort of setup issue?

Did you do the throttle setup procedure (calibrate transmitter to esc) in the manual (in the stock Senton manual)? Whenever you change transmitters you should do the throttle setup.

The double-tap to reverse is normal. You brake first when push the trigger forward then second push forward you reverse.
 
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