Proline Aluminum Hex for Raid Wheels

[HZRDOS]

So tired of having the plastic adapters crack and ordered the aluminum ones for the wheels. Will the serrated hex nut still hold? Or should I put some TL on the axle nut?

 

[Monster Dork]

Those are some pricey little chits, meng. I don't think it'll take lock-tite to keep the serrated nuts in place, but that's just an educated guess. It would probably be best to run them for a bit and re-torque them in the field until you get a feel for how much azz they need to stay put.

 

[HZRDOS]

Those are some pricey little chits, meng. I don't think it'll take lock-tite to keep the serrated nuts in place, but that's just an educated guess. It would probably be best to run them for a bit and re-torque them in the field until you get a feel for how much azz they need to stay put.

Yeah, didn't like the price. $80 for all 4....BUT I love badlands on my Typhon 6s, on my second pair. Spun one plastic hex, cracked/split 4 of them. Yes...the plastic ones are really cheap...but tired of replacing them. These should last for many years I hope.

 

[HZRDOS]

So just got the aluminum hexes. Pretty sure these will last. They are pretty beefy. Here they are compared to the plastic ones. One I cracked, the other is a spun hex one and split.

 

[@9G]

I have the aluminum hex for my Trenchers and I wouldn't use thread lock unless you plan on only using wheels that fit the hex...pretty much locking you into ProLine stuff (which isn't as bad as it may sound). The aluminum hex is plenty sturdy on its own and fits tight. I was using these on a Talion and had no issue with them. My issue was the tires themselves. The 3.8 size is plenty hefty and simply weighs too much (strains electronics and drivetrain) while the 2.8 size is a little small for the power I upgraded to. I prefer the 2.8s for the lighter weight but when I upgraded to the 1717-1650KV MMX8S combo the 2.8s weren't as stable (not tall enough). So I'm back to the Sweeps until something better comes along like a belted Katar (I wish one of these tires folks would listen to me and make one)

 

[morrjr71]

Just yesterday afternoon I added a set of 2.8" Pro-Line belted HP Trenchers on Raid wheels to my Typhon 3s. I didn't buy the tires for speed, I bought them primarily for better stability in turns. Hopefully the plastic hexes will last for awhile.

 

[HZRDOS]

Just yesterday afternoon I added a set of 2.8" Pro-Line belted HP Trenchers on Raid wheels to my Typhon 3s. I didn't buy the tires for speed, I bought them primarily for better stability in turns. Hopefully the plastic hexes will last for awhile.

Should be fine for 3s. Used the plastic ones on my Granite with Trenchers with no issues. The lower weight and power of the 3s I think is fine for the plastic.

The heavier 6s and power I think was beyond their limits.

 

[Westcoast B]

Should be fine for 3s. Used the plastic ones on my Granite with Trenchers with no issues. The lower weight and power of the 3s I think is fine for the plastic.

The heavier 6s and power I think was beyond their limits.

Sh*t and I have the plastic ones,guess I'm getting the aluminum ones soon. I have the typhon 6s on belted badlands so I'm prolly going to need the metal ones sooner than later.

 

[Monster Dork]

I just got my MX2.8 wheel set today. I don't want to commit to $80 alloy centers, that kind of hems me in to using pro-line wheels after vesting that much cash for the full monte. What if the centers are the better choice for a mechanical fuse? I'd rather break centers at 4 for $10 than break a wheel because the center is so strong. I could see the eight lug bolts tearing out of the wheel with my um, driving style. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

 

[HZRDOS]

I just got my MX2.8 wheel set today. I don't want to commit to $80 alloy centers, that kind of hems me in to using pro-line wheels after vesting that much cash for the full monte. What if the centers are the better choice for a mechanical fuse? I'd rather break centers at 4 for $10 than break a wheel because the center is so strong. I could see the eight lug bolts tearing out of the wheel with my um, driving style. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

I have been wondering that myself. I guess time will tell.

 

[morrjr71]

.... I'd rather break centers at 4 for $10 than break a wheel because the center is so strong.

I totally agree with you. I thought about buying the aluminum centers for all of about five seconds, then decided it just isn’t a good decision.

 

[HZRDOS]

I totally agree with you. I thought about buying the aluminum centers for all of about five seconds, then decided it just isn’t a good decision.

Yeah - I will find out I guess. I have killed 5 of the plastic ones. really tired of changing them.
Also something to note - they ALWAYS split in the same place, on one of the corners. I think the plastic is just too thin at that spot. I would agree that it may transfer the break to another part IF it broke in different spots. Since it is always the same - makes me think it is just a major weak point on the plastic piece.

 

[Monster Dork]

Also something to note - they ALWAYS split in the same place, on one of the corners. I think the plastic is just too thin at that spot. I would agree that it may transfer the break to another part IF it broke in different spots.

That makes sense. Well, I'd appreciate hearing the good and the bad after you spend some time with them. I'm sure I'll find out soon enough how much fun it is to end a bash sesh over cracked wheel centers.

 

[HZRDOS]

That makes sense. Well, I'd appreciate hearing the good and the bad after you spend some time with them. I'm sure I'll find out soon enough how much fun it is to end a bash sesh over cracked wheel centers.

You may be OK. I will take a pic in a bit - but I noticed all of the ones that did crack also have a small odd triangle shaped stamp in the side inline with the fracture. Maybe it was a bad manufacturing batch where a machine crimped it wrong? The few that did not crack, I noticed the triangle stamp was not there??

 

[Monster Dork]

Fascinating...

Maybe, in anticipation of the Horizon Hobby buyout, Pro Line had to redesign their products so that they have more parts to break and require constant ordering and replacement? Hmmm.

 

[Monster Dork]

I've come up with a solution. I am going to turn some alloy rings (think Birfield rings) and epoxy them over the outside circumference of the inner hubs to reinforce the part where the hexes crack. The prototypes might take me an hour or so, but I can see about getting a hundred of them CNC machined if it works out. It would be cheap insurance.

 

[HZRDOS]

I've come up with a solution. I am going to turn some alloy rings (think Birfield rings) and epoxy them over the outside circumference of the inner hubs to reinforce the part where the hexes crack. The prototypes might take me an hour or so, but I can see about getting a hundred of them CNC machined if it works out. It would be cheap insurance.

NICE!!! That would be perfect. How thick you planning on? Probably want at least 5 mil.

 

[Monster Dork]

There is no limit to how thick they can be, right up until they touch the rim. I was thinking about .062 to .125 thick (max), and about .375 wide. That should fully encircle the hex drive. If any more beef is needed, I'll change materials.