Proline body for Fireteam

[sumguy75]

Lots of work getting it taped up yesterday and painted today. Went with gun metal and black with metallic red and orange flames, all Tamiya rattle cans except I had Duratrax black. I've had the gun metal come out with a mottled look on accident in the past, but actually was hoping it would come out that way again. A few places here and there could look a little better, but overall very pleased with the result.
Will lower the body and put on tall side guards, mud guards, & roof rails soon.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Looks sick brother!!

 

[Surchaufeur]

The front pretty empty

 

[sumguy75]

I just sat it on there after painting. Maybe stick to stock bodies if filling a gap looks too hard?

You don't think I'm going to run it with everything open like that?
The tires are LPs, the body can go lower, and side guards will take care of the rest.

 

[sumguy75]

Will post updates in 6s forum

 

[Dan B.]

I've had the gun metal come out with a mottled look on accident in the past.

Me too, that stuff is hard to shoot. The metallic pools really easily, and the first body I shot with it was mottled as could be. The second one I was obsessively shaking the can and putting on layer after layer of superfine, almost invisible coats. It was way more time consuming but it came out a lot better than the first one.

 

[sumguy75]

Me too, that stuff is hard to shoot. The metallic pools really easily, and the first body I shot with it was mottled as could be. The second one I was obsessively shaking the can and putting on layer after layer of superfine, almost invisible coats. It was way more time consuming but it came out a lot better than the first one.

Whats odd to me is that I've had that happen with both regular gun metal and bright gun metal. Bright silver doesn't do it at all so I don't know if something about the dark pigment makes it pool like that. I didn't mind it this time because it resembles the look of the stock fireteam dark camo, but if I use it again I'm going to try shaking it a ton and putting down 8-10 thin coats instead of 3-4 regular coats.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Whats odd to me is that I've had that happen with both regular gun metal and bright gun metal. Bright silver doesn't do it at all so I don't know if something about the dark pigment makes it pool like that. I didn't mind it this time because it resembles the look of the stock fireteam dark camo, but if I use it again I'm going to try shaking it a ton and putting down 8-10 thin coats instead of 3-4 regular coats.

More pigment= heavier, thicker paint!!

 

[SrC]

I find that with the stock chassis and an upgrade plain Lexan body, the chassis will absolutely tweak out/ bend. Hope you have an M2C or equivalent upgrade chassis for that body. Then you will be golden. I would also run the Front EXB basher bumper as well. The front FT stocker bumper is useless without the FT Body attached to it. The FT stocker bumpers are keyed to the stocker FT body, and also keyed at the Fr and Rr towers for the XLWB chassis strength reinforcement. What separates the FT from all the other Arrma 6s rigs.
But it is common to swap out that heavy FT body for a lighter lexan one. You will lose about 2 pounds of weight. Rig will have a much lower Center of Gravity. Rig will feel much different. Just that I can't really call it a FT anymore. Its just an XLWB Talion/ Kraton/Noto/OC conversion now.

 

[sumguy75]

I find that with the stock chassis and an upgrade plain Lexan body, the chassis will absolutely tweak out/ bend. Hope you have an M2C or equivalent upgrade chassis for that body. Then you will be golden. I would also run the Front EXB basher bumper as well. The front FT stocker bumper is useless without the FT Body attached to it. The FT stocker bumpers are keyed to the stocker FT body, and also keyed at the Fr and Rr towers for the XLWB chassis strength reinforcement. What separates the FT from all the other Arrma 6s rigs.
But it is common to swap out that heavy FT body for a lighter lexan one. You will lose about 2 pounds of weight. Rig will have a much lower Center of Gravity. Rig will feel much different. Just that I can't really call it a FT anymore. Its just an XLWB Talion/ Kraton/Noto/OC conversion now.

I had already cut out all of the figures except the driver so it already wasn't a "team" anymore, just a Fireguy I guess?

I have the m2c braces but I already assume a chassis upgrade will be necessary.

More pigment= heavier, thicker paint!!

That's what I would think, but ive done dark metallic blue and it went down fine in 3-4 normal coats,

 

[joshludden]

Whats odd to me is that I've had that happen with both regular gun metal and bright gun metal. Bright silver doesn't do it at all so I don't know if something about the dark pigment makes it pool like that. I didn't mind it this time because it resembles the look of the stock fireteam dark camo, but if I use it again I'm going to try shaking it a ton and putting down 8-10 thin coats instead of 3-4 regular coats.

I've shot the bright gun metal a few times now but haven't noticed the splotches

 

[SrC]

Very light and mutiple coats with Pearls and Metallics are best.
Also, always place the rattle cans in hot water for several minutes, if that is what you are using. This will bring up the can pressure and your sprays will be consistent, the spray tip won't splatter. (no blotching) Pooling is usually caused by cold ambient temps and also spraying too close to the body. I usually use my heat gun between coats when it is cold out. Ideally these paints works best when sprayed above 70F.
My 2 cents.

 

[Dan B.]

Very light and mutiple coats with Pearls and Metallics are best.
Also, always place the rattle cans in hot water for several minutes, if that is what you are using. This will bring up the can pressure and your sprays will be consistent, the spray tip won't splatter. (no blotching) Pooling is usually caused by cold ambient temps and also spraying too close to the body. I usually use my heat gun between coats when it is cold out. Ideally these paints works best when sprayed above 70F.
My 2 cents.

Great advice, I’ll definitely try the hot water trick. Thank you!

 

[KeysRunner]

Lots of work getting it taped up yesterday and painted today. Went with gun metal and black with metallic red and orange flames, all Tamiya rattle cans except I had Duratrax black. I've had the gun metal come out with a mottled look on accident in the past, but actually was hoping it would come out that way again. A few places here and there could look a little better, but overall very pleased with the result.
Will lower the body and put on tall side guards, mud guards, & roof rails soon.




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View attachment 286809

What is the body exactly?

 

[King blitz]

Whats odd to me is that I've had that happen with both regular gun metal and bright gun metal. Bright silver doesn't do it at all so I don't know if something about the dark pigment makes it pool like that. I didn't mind it this time because it resembles the look of the stock fireteam dark camo, but if I use it again I'm going to try shaking it a ton and putting down 8-10 thin coats instead of 3-4 regular coats.

Did not read your whole thread but spraying metallic paint is not hard as long as you use a automotive jam gun or a air brush .lower the pressure down to about 25 pounds on the jam gun and spray very very light coats.sometimes around 6 coats ..you won't puddle..also depends on how you control your sweeps.15 minutes of dry time in-between coats.your ambient temperature plays a lot also.you should be spraying at a temp 75 to 80 .been spraying automotive for over 20 years in a controlled booth.if you spray in a cool or cold area your results won't be as great or perfect as if you have your substrate warm.room Temp is where many go wrong..some have no choice.i understand not everyone has a booth but simply turning up the heat in the area your spraying works ..also biggest thing is your needle size.i like to use a 1.6 on a concentrated area .(small scale) air brushing works well due to the fine atomizers. Very important to have your substrate warm..light coat let it flash over then Waite 15 minutes move on..if your substrate is cold pooling will accur. Spray cans are ok but I prefer to do the job the right way..cans are for those who have no other options like operating a real spray gun..yes you can get a nice finish from a can but it's not guaranteed all the time ..tips must be cleaned before the next coat so you don't result in blotches or spits.if you want to get fancy you can lay down glitter in your base coat but you need to make sure they lay flat..I like to use a pepper shaker.and glitter must be small like almost a dust.using pearls is another topic..basic paint jobs are base coat clear coat.and if you use a pearl then that becomes a 3 stage paint job.good luck my friend

 

[sumguy75]

What is the body exactly?

Its a Proline 2015 Silverado crawler body with a 13.9 inch wheelbase:
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-line-Racing-Chevrolet-Silverado-PRO358500/dp/B09P4CTGHJ

 

[KeysRunner]

Its a Proline 2015 Silverado crawler body with a 13.9 inch wheelbase:
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-line-Racing-Chevrolet-Silverado-PRO358500/dp/B09P4CTGHJ

Thank you sir. Been using the Losi 3xle body. Seems to be discontinued now. Will try this body now.

 

[sumguy75]

This body is pretty tough so far. I'm usually not impressed with Proline bodies but this one is pretty thick in the right places. Very durable with some gorilla tape and some kydex reinforcement where the rear body mounts go.

Perfect fit IMO, just don't trim by the line on the front bumper, leave an extra .5 to .75 inches. I only cut holes in the bed for the shock towers so I could lower it enough to make up for over trimming the front. I bought another clear body to paint soon and it will be trimmed right with no holes in the rear bed.

 

[KeysRunner]

This body is pretty tough so far. I'm usually not impressed with Proline bodies but this one is pretty thick in the right places. Very durable with some gorilla tape and some kydex reinforcement where the rear body mounts go.

Perfect fit IMO, just don't trim by the line on the front bumper, leave an extra .5 to .75 inches. I only cut holes in the bed for the shock towers so I could lower it enough to make up for over trimming the front. I bought another clear body to paint soon and it will be trimmed right with no holes in the rear bed.View attachment 298965

Good call on the front bumper. It is too short for the chassis if you cut to the body line. I have already order another body to correct this.

 

[KeysRunner]

Good call on the front bumper. It is too short for the chassis if you cut to the body line. I have already order another body to correct this.

The new body is done.