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Proline Pro Mt 4x4

Discussion in 'Other RC's' started by RcAnonymous, Nov 24, 2017.

  1. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    I found it to be too tight on the shaft and also too tight on spring tension. I added graphite powder and lightly sanded the inner diameter. Then run it loose as possible. Rich Duperbash has been beating the snot out of his with no more busted steering. He took my advice on a fix and has tested it fully. Basically it has zero give out of the box. It couldn’t cam upward on any impact. It’s also not the best design but way less breakage was reported after tweaking the action in the assembly.
     
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  2. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    I’ll definitely do this as soon as a replacement comes in. They are on backorder everywhere. I called proline and they are going to send me a replacement set.
    After watching Rich’s videos, I’m like how in the world did I break my steering driving around in snow in my back yard and Rich launches his 60ft with no breaks. I’m definitely taking your advice Vanning.
     
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  3. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    A bunch of people broke that part within 30 seconds of driving. You can take some sand paper, roll it around some round bar and carefully remove a slight amount of material. Make sure it slides easier up and down. Then apply a good grade graphite powder. Then set the spring tension so the cams actuate a little while steering. Then tighten up a bit more so it doesn’t operate with normal steeeing. Then watch carefully from the side as you set your end points. Study it for a bit.
     
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  4. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    The servo saver has got to be the last part you want to break on this truck. It’s on backorder everywhere and proline shipping is incredibly slow.
     
  5. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    I think everyone on the planet ordered spares. I may test my skills at making an aluminum one. If I do bust mine ever. I’ve also had conversations with people that the servo saver isn’t really needed. Ive read it also on forums. i didn’t read too much into it.
     
  6. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    Worked like a charm. Vanning, you are the man! Thanks again for the tips.
     
  7. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    It’s also a poor design, it will climb the cam one way much easier than the other. In one direction, it has a hard time. All we can do is improve it a bit. I’m not hearing many reports of breakage after the first round. I’m still waiting till better weather.

    B2A96906-C6B5-44C1-B653-F459DEA091F8.jpeg I added some axle extensions also. I really like this mod. I used the more narrow set of RC8T extensions from Team Associated. Quality, sharp drill bits were key to doing a successful mod. Also, the closed axle Nuts will not work, have to use open ones. These made the stance one inch wider. From my few test rides, I knew it would be more where I like the width. The body is thick so it’s more top heavy than most. The added width is nice.
     
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  8. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    T-Bone Racing has a skid plate and bumpers for the MT-4x4. I ordered a skid plate.
     
  9. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    I retrofitted their kraton chassis plate for the ProMT before they came out with the new skid plate.

    Diff topic: spoke with proline about the servo saver and got this reply “We have a shipment of re-engineered servo savers on the way from china . They should be to us by the middle of this next week your shipment will soon follow that.” This would explain the backorder status everywhere. I’m assuming other issues that have been brought to their attention might be in the process of being addressed(I have no communication to validate this assumption). However, it’s nice to know our voices are being heard about the problems we are experiencing and solutions are being delivered.
     
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  10. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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  11. stratosteve

    stratosteve Well-Known Member

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    Picked one up last week. It is a bit smaller than I was anticipating.

    I am in the process of narrowing down my choices for esc/motor. First choice is obviously the MMX with 2200kv. But I am leaning toward doing a 3s setup with a HW esc and one of their 3660sd motors in 3200 or 3600kv. I run a 3600 in a eb48sl and it rips. I have plenty of quality 3s batts.

    The 3s setup would be considerably lighter than the 4s. I don't care about doing standing backflips etc.

    What does the hive think?
     
  12. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    Don’t let the size fool you. Once you tune the diffs, widen the stance and choose your esc/motor combo, this truck is as capable as any 1/8th scale basher.

    You’re looking at 340-450gram(.75-1lbs) difference in weight between a 1/10th and 1/8th scale motor/esc/battery combo. I’ve tried both and decided to run a 2400kv Mamba X SCT system running 16T pinion on 4S. It’s the size of a 1/10th scale system with almost the power of the 1/8th system. You can run any pinion size 14-21 with the larger system, but if you choose the 1/10th scale esc/motor combo, you’ll be limited to 16 or below in order to keep the temps below the thermal limit. There’s a ton of information in this thread. You’ll find most of the answers to your questions within the first 60 post.
     
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  13. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    I use a 1900 KV long can 1/10 diameter but 1/8 length. Has a 1/8 size pinion shaft. I run a max10 1/10 scales ESC on 4s. Stock pinion for now. It rips. It’s much lighter than a 1/8 setup, runs very cool.
     
  14. stratosteve

    stratosteve Well-Known Member

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    Tried a 3660 3600kv HW and a 16t pinion. Was dark during testing but ran strong. Probably need to gear down a bit. It had good power/speed but the motor was warming up quick. Didn't run a full battery, just a few passes up and down my street
     
  15. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    If you installed extended wheel hex and have a little slop in your wheels, these shims will tighten your wheels.
    20180128_140527.jpg
    There are 6 in a pack. I used 2 per axle for the front and 1 per axle for the rear. It's a simple fixed but makes a huge difference in tire wobble.
     
  16. merlinx76

    merlinx76 Active Member

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    Rather than going all the way down from a full 1/8 scale truck motor to the Castle 2400KV, I was thinking of running a 1/8 buggy motor which should be right about in between the 2 sizes for power. Castle only rates the 2400KV for up to a 6.5lb vehicle but they rate their 2650KV motor for up to a 9.5lb RC which seems like it would be perfect. A buggy motor or a really long can 36mm motor like Vanning is running seem like the right size.

    Either way I am going to try it since the motor is just laying around anyway. It seems like a really good match. I will also keeping the ESC weight down a bit by running a Tekin RX8 (probably) and will not be loading it with a huge battery even though there's room to fit a lot of battery height.
     
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  17. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    CAE0F043-E1B8-4B9B-B2C5-5B10E1D82FE1.jpeg Got the T-Bone skid installed. Not bad.
     
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  18. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    The stock wheel Nuts bottom out before it can tighten on the rim. I used open wheel Nuts rather than the capped off ones. Is that the play you are talking about rh ?
     
  19. rhbailey24

    rhbailey24 Well-Known Member

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    I used the open wheel nuts also, but I needed the wheel shims to take out the slop. There was a little play between the wheel bearing and the extended wheel hex.
     
    #119 rhbailey24, Feb 12, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  20. Vanning

    Vanning Well-Known Member

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    Oh....ok. Good info, thanks. That will work nice.
     
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