Vorteks Proper "mesh"/relationship between spur and pinion gears?

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I've recently had to tear down my Vorteks for repair and am reassembling. Can someone tell me exactly how these gears at the motor should mesh? It seemed like, before taking them apart, they had good overlap, relatively close, but it wasn't jammed together. I wasn't sure if there was some measurement or placement that needed adhered to.
 

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I've recently had to tear down my Vorteks for repair and am reassembling. Can someone tell me exactly how these gears at the motor should mesh? It seemed like, before taking them apart, they had good overlap, relatively close, but it wasn't jammed together. I wasn't sure if there was some measurement or placement that needed adhered to.
If you don't want to mess around a lot, you can use a regular piece of paper to gap the gears properly. Well, to be precise, this works well for Mod1 gears. If you have really fine pitch gears perhaps something like aluminum foil would be more appropriate.
Just far enough that you feel a click when you hold one and wiggle the other but no more than that. Gears aren't perfectly round so you should check in multiple places to make sure there's no tight spots.
I'm pretty sure my gears are perfectly round (within certain tolerances of course, but that applies to literally everything). If your gears aren't perfectly round, you might want to consider getting new ones.
 

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With the 3S vehicles, I don’t feel like I can get a true feeing of the mesh until both halves of the power module are in place and holding the slipper/spur firmly in place - then I rotate the spur and rock it from the bottom of the power module and feel the mesh at different points along the spur. Some can probably do it without the cover fully on but that method works for me.
 
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If you don't want to mess around a lot, you can use a regular piece of paper to gap the gears properly. Well, to be precise, this works well for Mod1 gears. If you have really fine pitch gears perhaps something like aluminum foil would be more appropriate.

I'm pretty sure my gears are perfectly round (within certain tolerances of course, but that applies to literally everything). If your gears aren't perfectly round, you might want to consider getting new ones.
Mine arent. And neither are yours unless you're using a higher end 3rd party replacement such as ones from Robinson Racing. The "certain tolerances" you speak of are far enough apart that there can and often is uneven mesh using stock parts and is exactly what I am talking about... 3s models use .8 mod btw. The 6s trucks use Mod 1. The paper test is fine but it's not perfect and can cause failures if the part is on the far end of the "acceptable tolerances" spectrum. Physically checking it in 4 or 5 places guarantees you have correct contact and requires no skill and only a couple extra seconds of time.

@Engineer yeah man for sure. I always double check after the cover is screwed on because oftentimes the spur seats in and all of a sudden what was perfect mesh has become too tight.
 

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Mine arent. And neither are yours unless you're using a higher end 3rd party replacement such as ones from Robinson Racing. The "certain tolerances" you speak of are far enough apart that there can and often is uneven mesh using stock parts and is exactly what I am talking about... 3s models use .8 mod btw. The 6s trucks use Mod 1. The paper test is fine but it's not perfect and can cause failures if the part is on the far end of the "acceptable tolerances" spectrum. Physically checking it in 4 or 5 places guarantees you have correct contact and requires no skill and only a couple extra seconds of time.

@Engineer yeah man for sure. I always double check after the cover is screwed on because oftentimes the spur seats in and all of a sudden what was perfect mesh has become too tight.
I am using 3rd party gears from a Swedish company and I'm pretty sure they're round. Surely it's also a matter of what material they're made from. Forged steel and plastic are sure to have vastly different tolerances. I only ever check mesh in one spot and after I tighten down my motor mount screws there's no variation in mesh (not that I skip checking that everything works smoothly before I take the car out). So, taking into account what you're saying, it's fair to say that different gear (pardon the pun) requires different checks. Aside from the JRX Pro I had 30 years ago my Infraction is the only experience I can draw from and gave my take on techniques that have worked for me. Fortunately there are many others on here with other/more experience to offer up and the OP can weigh which more closely aligns with what he has in front of him and figure out what works best.
 
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