Prove you never have done this

[Anonymous.]

Prove this is your first time changing your shock oil

 

[gotnitro]

You could put brand new oil in a shock, move it up and down a few times and it will be black from the piston friction on the exposed internal aluminum shock body. Much like taking aluminum polish on raw aluminum, turns black instantly.

Some think it’s dirt. Had this discussion a few times.. BUT, if it were dirt, the bladder and O-ring would be bad and leaking for dirt to get in. Don’t believe it, put new oil in and go up and down a few times, dump the oil and wala, black oil..

 

[Anonymous.]

You could put brand new oil in a shock, move it up and down a few times and it will be black from the piston friction on the exposed internal aluminum shock body. Much like taking aluminum polish on raw aluminum, turns black instantly.

Some think it’s dirt. Had this discussion a few times.. BUT, if it were dirt, the bladder and O-ring would be bad and leaking for dirt to get in. Don’t believe it, put new oil in and go up and down a few times, dump the oil and wala, black oil..

Yes those were my old stock shocks I just got new proline ones…I thought why not see how bad the oil is. I agree it’s not dirt. Shock shafts are bent to lol

 

[SrC]

You could put brand new oil in a shock, move it up and down a few times and it will be black from the piston friction on the exposed internal aluminum shock body. Much like taking aluminum polish on raw aluminum, turns black instantly.

Some think it’s dirt. Had this discussion a few times.. BUT, if it were dirt, the bladder and O-ring would be bad and leaking for dirt to get in. Don’t believe it, put new oil in and go up and down a few times, dump the oil and wala, black oil..

^^^
I say the same thing most of the time. Even the anodizing and then the alloy wears and you can see metallic in the oil as well.
But I also have had shocks with White Delrin pistons and Teflon coated bodies, that don't wear, yet they appear to injest dirt. Unbooted shafts I assume was the reason. I think as the shafts get abraided from fine clay and dirt, striations along the shock shaft can carry dirt into the oil with alot of use and over time. Reason I say this, is that its usually the Rear shocks this happens to first, and the fronts remain clear. Oil rarely darkens. If it was always because of internal wear that is darkening the oil, all 4 shocks would be dirty equally and all the time.

 

[SrC]

I polish my shock shafts mounted to a drill. I use a Jewelers Rouge/Flitz when I do a complete shock rebuild. Any metal polish is good. Makes for a bit more plushness, less wear and sticktion at the O-rings. I only use an Alloy Tekno Shock Multi-Tool to mount the shock rod ends. It also pops balls easily. There are others much cheaper. A worthy tool for any RC toolbox. I never use standard pliers. Damages the shafts.

 

[gotnitro]

I polish my shock shafts mounted to a drill. I use a Jewelers Rouge/Flitz when I do a complete shock rebuild. Any metal polish is good. Makes for a bit more plushness, less wear and sticktion at the O-rings. I only use an Alloy Tekno Shock Multi-Tool to mount the shock rod ends. It also pops balls easily. There are others much cheaper. A worthy tool for any RC toolbox. I never use standard pliers. Damages the shafts.

Dude, I put mine in a neutron vapor lock after they come out of a cryogenic chamber before the TiNi transfunction'r milled speckle platinum coating. I never use hydro flux on my balls but I do see a big difference with some silicone infused smagma oil

 

[SrC]

^^^ I was wondering why my ball gag is hanging low these days.