Question: Preparing Arrma Vortex BLS for 2s lipo

[Yorda]

Hey guys,

The other forum is not active anymore I suppose, so I'll ask this here.

I have an Arrma Vorteks BLS still in stock configuration.
I wanna buy a 6000 mah 2S lipo for it.
Apart from switching the ESC into lipo mode, is there anything else I must do or replace?

The standard ESC has a rating of 35c I believe, but this battery apparently is rated at 40c.
Won't it blow up the ESC?
Need to use a different pinion gear thing? Stuff like that I would like to know before I start my Vorteks for the first time with a lipo under the hood.

PS: I bought the X100 charger with touch screen, internal balance board and so on. I think this one is even nicer than the popular imax charger. Seems even easier and intuitive to use for a newbie such as me.

 

[Walter]

The ESC is rated at 35A. The battery is 40c... that's not the same thing. As long as the system doesn't pull more than the 35A then having a battery of 40c should be fine. The risk to the ESC is how much power is pulled through it... the battery won't overwhelm it with power... the motor, servo, receiver just take what they need.

 

[Yorda]

The ESC is rated at 35A. The battery is 40c... that's not the same thing. As long as the system doesn't pull more than the 35A then having a battery of 40c should be fine. The risk to the ESC is how much power is pulled through it... the battery won't overwhelm it with power... the motor, servo, receiver just take what they need.

Ah, right. Sorry, I'm still learning about all of this stuff.

I'll be getting them sweet 6000mah's then. Gonna be a big step up from 3300 mah NiMH in terms of acceleration and duration I bet.

 

[Kyzane]

the nice part about a 40C battery is you'll experience less stutter when starting from a dead stop because your not going to be hitting that 35C rating on your esc. now if you had a 20C 2s battery on the other hand you might get a little stutter when you slam the throttle down due to the battery not being able to supply the power demand.

I'm not going to complicate it by talking about burst ratings and such as well but a higher C rating in general on the battery just means the battery will have the power ready when it's needed without causing the battery to heat up more then needed.

Finally your correct the Lipo's combined with a higher mAh is going to mean more runtime. your weight on the vehicle should drop as well since lipo's are lighter overall then nimh

 

[Yorda]

the nice part about a 40C battery is you'll experience less stutter when starting from a dead stop because your not going to be hitting that 35C rating on your esc. now if you had a 20C 2s battery on the other hand you might get a little stutter when you slam the throttle down due to the battery not being able to supply the power demand.

Yea, thats annoying. I notice a power drop when go full throttle from a dead stop with my 3300 NiMH stock battery on my Vorteks BLS.
Ok, so the battery can't be too powerful, thats what I wanted to hear.

I'm not going to complicate it by talking about burst ratings and such as well but a higher C rating in general on the battery just means the battery will have the power ready when it's needed without causing the battery to heat up more then needed.

I think I have an idea already about burst rate. The temporary power it can give for a short amount of time, usually during acceleration from a dead stop or when performing stunts with a quadcopter where the propellers are stressed more than usual. I think.

Finally your correct the Lipo's combined with a higher mAh is going to mean more runtime. your weight on the vehicle should drop as well since lipo's are lighter overall then nimh

Longer runtime is really needed because this 3300 NiMH is drained completely after like 14 minutes and thats if I don't do any crazy stuff with it like climbing hills, making jumps or being aggressive on acceleration.

And an increase in topspeed? Is that possible by just switching to lipo?

Last but not least, do you or anyone else know what I should change on my BLS model to run 2s lipo's?
I know I need to change the ESC settings to lipo. But must I also change the gear pinion?
The box contained such a whats it, 15? or 17 pinion.

 

[Darren Wes]

You should be ready for takeoff guy. That was basically built for 2s. If you go to 3s youll have issues like im having now. The extra.2v isnt what makes the battery awesome. Its the fact it holds that voltage way longer that is

 

[Kyzane]

i would keep the stock pinion on it for the first few batteries until you truly get a feel for it. seriously going from nimh to lipo is a huge difference you won't believe it until you have done so once. after you get used to the stock pinion then you can look at switching to a different pinion but before even that i would check what your running for temperatures on your Motor and ESC due to the longer run times you'll get from Lipo the motor and ESC will build up more heat.

 

[Darren Wes]

Thats a great tip...best thing you could have for your truck is a heat reader infared gun thing.

Know your temps learn your car. Enjoy the long runs. Go slow the first run and charge for a break in for the battery sake. But yeah leave the gears alone till you go lipo. You may not wanna change it.

I have a mega with stock gears 15/87 with a 39kv brushless 2pole (about the same as bls) its pleanty fast runs plenty long... you know if u want a bit less speed but more time smashing the remote just put in the mega pinion.

Ill let you know everytime i drive my brushless mega i feel bad because i know i could squeeze about 3~6mph more but i don't change because i am heat consious and i love to drain batteries

 

[Unusual RC]

20C x 6.0 Ah capacity is 120 Ampere during normal load, not burst. Unfortunately not all lipo manufacturers are honest about their C rating. Indeed a lot of the higher C rated lipos are indeed the burst capacity.

With the 35 Ampere ESC you will not have any problems with 20,25 or 40C 2S.

Mind you that Arrma rates this BLS ESC for 2S only. On 3S you might burn it.