Kraton R/C Noob Here! Questions Regarding Kraton EXB

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ArrmaGeddonBash

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Arrma RC's
  1. Mojave EXB
I'm new to R/C and I am about to order the Kraton EXB but before I do I need your help with a few questions so I know what to buy :)

Battery Questions: How much run time (i know it varies) on average can you get with a Spektrum 5000mAh 4S 14.8V 100C Smart LiPo?

Do you get more run time with two 2s 5000mah batteries?

ESC Question: I am getting this ESC https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMXSEMC05 ... If I choose to run one 4s battery. How do I dummy plug the other connector. Idk what that means? I'm assuming it means you put a plug in it and leave it be or something else?

ESC/Motor Question: What is a safe Temp under operation for the ESC/Motor?

Kraton EXB Questions: When the EXB was newly release it had diff issues. Are those issues fixed now or should I buy some diff fluid/tekno shims for the rear?

Are there any parts that are prone to breaking? What spare parts should I order to be on the safe side?




Thanks in advance!!
 
I'm new to R/C and I am about to order the Kraton EXB but before I do I need your help with a few questions so I know what to buy :)

Battery Questions: How much run time (i know it varies) on average can you get with a Spektrum 5000mAh 4S 14.8V 100C Smart LiPo?

Do you get more run time with two 2s 5000mah batteries?

ESC Question: I am getting this ESC https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMXSEMC05 ... If I choose to run one 4s battery. How do I dummy plug the other connector. Idk what that means? I'm assuming it means you put a plug in it and leave it be or something else?

ESC/Motor Question: What is a safe Temp under operation for the ESC/Motor?

Kraton EXB Questions: When the EXB was newly release it had diff issues. Are those issues fixed now or should I buy some diff fluid/tekno shims for the rear?

Are there any parts that are prone to breaking? What spare parts should I order to be on the safe side?




Thanks in advance!!
I will answer all these questions. And you could also save yourself some time and headache and buy the brand new one I have for sale in the classifieds. I specifically bought it to sell to someone as an RTR.

motor/esc temps: try to keep temps under 180, anything beyond that is potentially dangerous to electronics.

dummy plug, your esc when you bought it would probably come with one. So not to worry there. you could also solder up your esc to have only one plug if your planing on always running a single pack.

battery question, you basically answered your own question, double the mah with the same cell count and you should have more run time.

the early diff issues have been sorted out, the first renditions of the EXB came with an open rear diff. But they had a poor design that didn’t support the sun gear well and kept having diff issues. The newer versions come with a limited traction lsd setup in the rear that I personally don’t care for. There is a fix for this with 12x18 shims to continue to run the rear diff open instead of lsd. (This is how I have the one for sale in the classifieds with the open rear 12x18shim fix)

If I forgot anything let me know I’ll try and answer.

link to my Kraton EXB for sale:

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-exb-rtr.32534/
 
Since I think rcproponent misread your battery question:
2x2s 5000mah vs 1x4s 5000mah should give the same runtime more or less. If you put two 2s 5000mah batteries in series (you have to solder) than you basically get a 4s 10000mah. Stock electronics are parallel though, so connecting two batteries you get double the S (2s-> 4s) capacity, but mah remains the same.
For more runtime get a battery with more mah.
As for spare parts, almost everyone new to rc breaks A-arms first (myself on the second run 😄).
 
@Rcproponent Where are you located? I'm in Canada but have NP paying for shipping. Any Idea how much it would be?

I def want to buy it! Any chance you can reserve it for me till Jan 21st @ 12:15am when I get paid next?

If not I understand no worries.
 
Since I think rcproponent misread your battery question:
2x2s 5000mah vs 1x4s 5000mah should give the same runtime more or less. If you put two 2s 5000mah batteries in series (you have to solder) than you basically get a 4s 10000mah. Stock electronics are parallel though, so connecting two batteries you get double the S (2s-> 4s) capacity, but mah remains the same.
For more runtime get a battery with more mah.
As for spare parts, almost everyone new to rc breaks A-arms first (myself on the second run 😄).
I knew what you meant, but:
Connecting batteries in a series... you add the voltage of the batteries, and capacity stays the same
Connecting batteries in parallel... you add the capacity of the batteries, and the voltage stays the same
And, most ESCs (if not all) that are wired to use two battery packs are wired in series.
1610536836110.png
 
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I forgot to ask.. After I'm done bashing and the battery needs to be charged. Do I have to discharge it so the cells are a specific voltage, or do I just charge the battery again?
 
Have you conciderd the HW MAX6 + 1650kv? From what I've heared, it runs a lot cooler than those electronics, though it isn't fast on 4s
 
@Rcproponent Where are you located? I'm in Canada but have NP paying for shipping. Any Idea how much it would be?

I def want to buy it! Any chance you can reserve it for me till Jan 21st @ 12:15am when I get paid next?

If not I understand no worries.
I didn’t realize you were in Canada! My apologies! I’m sure shipping would be outrageous :(
 
I knew what you meant, but:
Connecting batteries in a series... you add the voltage of the batteries, and capacity stays the same
Connecting batteries in parallel... you add the capacity of the batteries, and the voltage stays the same
And, most ESCs (if not all) that are wired to use two battery packs are wired in series.
View attachment 119740
Guess I mixed both terms up.🙄
 
@HeavyBag So can I run one 4s 5000mah 100c? Sorry I'm lost lol..
Have you conciderd the HW MAX6 + 1650kv? From what I've heared, it runs a lot cooler than those electronics, though it isn't fast on 4s
Hobby shops that are close to me are all sold out. That esc/motor combo is my only option.
I knew what you meant, but:
Connecting batteries in a series... you add the voltage of the batteries, and capacity stays the same
Connecting batteries in parallel... you add the capacity of the batteries, and the voltage stays the same
And, most ESCs (if not all) that are wired to use two battery packs are wired in series.
View attachment 119740
So can i run one 4s 5000mah battery with a decent run time or?
 
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I'm new to R/C and I am about to order the Kraton EXB but before I do I need your help with a few questions so I know what to buy :)

Battery Questions: How much run time (i know it varies) on average can you get with a Spektrum 5000mAh 4S 14.8V 100C Smart LiPo?

Do you get more run time with two 2s 5000mah batteries?

ESC Question: I am getting this ESC https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMXSEMC05 ... If I choose to run one 4s battery. How do I dummy plug the other connector. Idk what that means? I'm assuming it means you put a plug in it and leave it be or something else?

ESC/Motor Question: What is a safe Temp under operation for the ESC/Motor?

Kraton EXB Questions: When the EXB was newly release it had diff issues. Are those issues fixed now or should I buy some diff fluid/tekno shims for the rear?

Are there any parts that are prone to breaking? What spare parts should I order to be on the safe side?




Thanks in advance!!
1) Depends if you drive it like you stole it or like grandma on Sunday morning. 10-20mins is a valid range. Don’t run two packs for more runtime. Let it take a break and cool off while you change out packs. Its not the end of the world to take a break every 10-15 mins.

2) You just need to complete the connection on the second plug. A small piece of wire to connect the two wires together is what makes a jump plug. Just make sure the wire is the same gauge as the ESC wire (or larger).

3) 180F is the max safe temp for electronics. Damage will occur above 180F.

4) The new release of the KEXB includes LSD plates in the rear diff to prevent the issues the first release had. While this does work in supporting the sun gears more, I don’t care for the LSD in the rear as it tends to make the rear end drift out on any turn under power. I prefer an open rear diff by using the @BashingBrian method of using 12x18 shims instead of the LSD plates. This supports the sun gear without locking the diff.

5) I have broken quite a few things. This time of year for the northern hemisphere is colder and plastic becomes brittle. Arms, wing mounts, and rod ends come to mind. Make sure to vent your tires and tape the rim holes. Its best to balance them too. Reinforce the body with drywall tape and shoe goo or gorilla tape. The rear bed will surely crack at some point. And lastly I would use the @Notorious J method of bolting thru the rear diff bulkhead for the shock tower lower screws. This will prevent them from ripping out on a bad rear landing.
 
I forgot to ask.. After I'm done bashing and the battery needs to be charged. Do I have to discharge it so the cells are a specific voltage, or do I just charge the battery again?
After emptying your LiPo, you need to charge it with 'storage mode'. Most good LiPo chargers have it. It charges your battery half, so it can be stored way longer without degrading as much.
When you want to run it, just charge it like normal, the day/morning before or whatever fits your time scheme
 
1) Depends if you drive it like you stole it or like grandma on Sunday morning. 10-20mins is a valid range. Don’t run two packs for more runtime. Let it take a break and cool off while you change out packs. Its not the end of the world to take a break every 10-15 mins.

2) You just need to complete the connection on the second plug. A small piece of wire to connect the two wires together is what makes a jump plug. Just make sure the wire is the same gauge as the ESC wire (or larger).

3) 180F is the max safe temp for electronics. Damage will occur above 180F.

4) The new release of the KEXB includes LSD plates in the rear diff to prevent the issues the first release had. While this does work in supporting the sun gears more, I don’t care for the LSD in the rear as it tends to make the rear end drift out on any turn under power. I prefer an open rear diff by using the @BashingBrian method of using 12x18 shims instead of the LSD plates. This supports the sun gear without locking the diff.

5) I have broken quite a few things. This time of year for the northern hemisphere is colder and plastic becomes brittle. Arms, wing mounts, and rod ends come to mind. Make sure to vent your tires and tape the rim holes. Its best to balance them too. Reinforce the body with drywall tape and shoe goo or gorilla tape. The rear bed will surely crack at some point. And lastly I would use the @Notorious J method of bolting thru the rear diff bulkhead for the shock tower lower screws. This will prevent them from ripping out on a bad rear landing.
The photo I promised
@Notorious J is there a write up for this? Link?
The photo I promised
20210115_235658.jpg
 
I actually did that to mine a little over a year ago. While it helped the bulkhead not strip, for me it created a weak spot on my wing mount from the removal of material you have to do to make it work.
 
Thanks for taking your time to do that! I'm going to do that this weekend. Is that an m3 bolt?
It is. Just be sure to test fit a longer screw and make sure it doesn't go in to the wing mount.
I actually did that to mine a little over a year ago. While it helped the bulkhead not strip, for me it created a weak spot on my wing mount from the removal of material you have to do to make it work.
I have never had a wing mount fail in that area. They always break behind the tower.
 
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