love them, no complaints, the quality is really niceHi sir, about to fix this with the CVD swap too. Were you happy with the GPM quality? It is pretty cheap. Thank you for your time and answer!
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love them, no complaints, the quality is really niceHi sir, about to fix this with the CVD swap too. Were you happy with the GPM quality? It is pretty cheap. Thank you for your time and answer!
Interesting. Just checked the parts list and my Talion EXB should have them installed but they did not come with them. Maybe they were in the box? Purchase in February of this year.old post.....
But these Rear EXB Outdrive Inserts are included standard with EXB rigs last I heard. Better fitting than tubing or rubber fuel line. These index well into the outdrive cups. If you have an EXB rig they are already there.
I use them on most all my 6s rigs.
However many of my rigs I just go with Front CVD setups at the Rear as @jondilly1974 stated above.
Also if they keep popping out, you can also shorten the rear wheelbase with the hub spacing a bit. There are spacers there to alter wheelbase at the hubs by a few MM. This will keep the bones captive better. This worked for me. Proper Droop also helps as well as firmer springs with better damping ( thicker oil) You can also lay down the rear shocks. This impacts/changes the droop as well. An overworked rear shock and suspension setup can contribute to bones popping easily. Especially when yu have a very heavy rig, 8s gear and slammed with much alloy stuff.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html
Hi SrC,old post.....
But these Rear EXB Outdrive Inserts are included standard with EXB rigs last I heard. Better fitting than tubing or rubber fuel line. These index well into the outdrive cups. If you have an EXB rig they are already there.
I use them on most all my 6s rigs.
However many of my rigs I just go with Front CVD setups at the Rear as @jondilly1974 stated above.
Also if they keep popping out, you can also shorten the rear wheelbase with the hub spacing a bit. There are spacers there to alter wheelbase at the hubs by a few MM. This will keep the bones captive better. This worked for me. Proper Droop also helps as well as firmer springs with better damping ( thicker oil) You can also lay down the rear shocks. This impacts/changes the droop as well. An overworked rear shock and suspension setup can contribute to bones popping easily. Especially when yu have a very heavy rig, 8s gear and slammed with much alloy stuff.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html
The fronts should be cvds.I have the inserts in and rear left dogbone constantly pops out. It actually ripped apart my diff cups now. My fronts are dogbones too though, you guys have different setups in the front?
Thanks I did double check droop, shock rod ends and such..just forgot about the inserts.You can also put o rings in the diff cups and wheel axle cups to limit left to right play of the rear dogbone. Or a small piece of tape and make and roll it wit your fingers to make a small ball and put that in the cups.
As mentioned by @SrC there should still be play, but check it put putting the car of a block and check if the dogbones nearly pop out when you fully compress shocks and fully extend them by hand. Don’t forget to set your droop correct.
Doing this should prevent dogbones popping out.
yes sirThe fronts should be cvds.
This is a cvd
View attachment 246696
This is a dog bone for reference.
View attachment 246697
I've seen people get them mixed up sometimes and I swear I just saw a thread a few days ago where someone was asking what the difference was.yes sir
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