r4nd0ms - Kraton 8S - Kratonstein build log

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

r4nd0m

Very Active Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,170
Reaction score
1,493
Location
Milton Keynes, UK
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Mojave
  3. Notorious
Weather is seriously nice and sunny here in the UK and I thought I'll start wrenching a bit on my Kraton 8S as I had a few parts on the shelf for a while but not done anything.

While at it, probably worth to start documenting all the changes I'll do to it.

My Kraton 8S is the fast one (green) original batch and the only thing I had replaced was the radio as I use my Spektrum Dx5 Pro with it.


Shock Socks
The first undocumented change was to install some shock socks to keep the shocks a bit more clean especially in dusty conditions and I got a set off ebay at a reasonable price I think https://ebay.us/r0tf9J

1577791384266.png



Light Kit
After the shock socks were installed I went and got a light kit off ebay from the same seller that supplied the shock socks (could have saved some postage here ...) https://ebay.us/AxUK6h
1581717174127.png


1581717200267.png


The light kit looks seriously awesome even during the day, the material is TPU printed so it flexes instead of breaking during an uncontrolled landing.

Kraton 8S upgrades
I couldn't be bothered to wait any longer and compiled a parts list by comparing the manuals of the first batch and newly released Kraton 8s. Information in the EU as to when potentially upgrade kits will be available, or at all, at the price like in the US for $25 or anything else so I went ahead and bought them out of pocket to install.
1583009213880.png





M2C Chassis
Well, it feels like forever that I have the M2C chassis sitting on the shelf which I got I believe from the first batch @Mitchell looper produced which got to me via @Badtouch The basher and his excellent services.

Today, as mentioned is a sunny day and I thought lets give it a shot and create a Kratonstein 8S 1.5V M2C

Obviously I had to strip the Kraton 8S to free the chassis to replace it with the M2C
1586961250090.png


While stripping it I noticed that the Suspension Hanger Set ARA330555 had been damaged - probably during one of the many cartwheels the truck has been through - never noticed it before so part# ARA330555 ordered and full completion I assume is postponed

1586961373949.png


here is the M2C chassis the way I will attempt to use it to include the upgraded rear brace into the setup

1586961517180.png


Front axis (edit: actually I think rear) and motor mount installed

1586961567167.png


Its amazing how easy this truck is to work on and the chassis is good machined so it goes together quite well or without many delays

1586961633803.png


This is what you end up with if you want to include the upgraded rear brace into the setup - @Mitchell looper may be worth considering bringing a modified part into production to accommodate for this

1586961718638.png


But its nothing 2 M3 washers cant fix - I tried to squeeze 3 in there but you could see the stress while with 2 washers it was nice and snug

1586961801053.png


these two fellas however seemed to cause a bit of a challenge as it seemed somehow they were like 2mm off it took me a serious amount of try and error screwing bits together before they would fit while the other holes perfectly lined up - not sure what was wrong here but I got there in the end

1586961925035.png


So I don't lose any parts or screws I did put everything back together until the Suspension Hanger gets here and my Red and Tacky.

1586962801721.png



Postponed work for now:

Carbon Fibre Tubing

Assuming the weather tomorrow is similar to today I will then strengthen the different chassis brace bars with the carbon tubes that have arrived today (2x OD16mm,ID12mm,50cm) which were finally somewhere available for me here in the UK again via ebay https://ebay.us/c2nJau

1586962294587.png



Bulletproof shock rod ends
I also bought some alternative shock rod ends I intended to put on the Kraton which I also got off ebay: https://ebay.us/v4sJZb

1586962617619.png


These shock rod ends apparently fit perfectly according to youtube UNRooted RC so I'll give it a shot.

So waiting for the spare part and grease before I can progress and put the last bits on for now ...
 
Last edited:
New Servo - PrimalRC PM1373
1587120436048.png

Raminator Monster Truck PM1373 High Voltage Digital Steering or Brake Servo
  • Servo Case Size: 65.8x30x57.4mm
  • Mounting Size: 75x17.5mm
  • Weight: 200g
  • 15 tooth
  • Speed: 0.15sec/60 Degree at 6.0 volt. 0.13sec/60 Degree at 7.4 volt
  • Torque: 62kg / 6.0volt. 73kg / 7.4 volt
  • All Metal Gears
  • Aluminum center case.
this had already arrived but my receiver box (ARA320553) for some reason had a split so that needed replacing which got to me this morning.

Here it is installed, you will require the larger receiver box which comes included in ARA320553 to get this servo mounted as its huge
1587120594953.png


I am running the BEC @7.4V so this should push the servo to 73kg of torque and just wiggling the steering wheel showed its actually pretty fast as well - will be interesting to run it.

Postponed work for now:

Carbon Fibre Tubing

I did cut a few tubes slightly too short :facepalm:
1587121434445.png

so had to order some replacement which I will install when they get here - maybe later today (hopefully - the postie is still due to arrive) ...

1587121659715.png



Bulletproof shock rod ends
still due to be installed and I will put them on when I feel like swapping them out

1587121672588.png


waiting game on parts continues, Suspension Hanger still due to arrive and I also ordered another Dusty Motors XXXL Universal Dust Cover to put on Kratonstein.

to be continued ...
 
Nice!

For the short CF tubes you could have sanded down the ends flush and used pieces of heat shrink tube to cover and complete the clean flush look.
I probably could do that but I figured if I keep them longer the ends actually tighten on to them so the carbon tube doesn't wiggle on brace bar but sits in place and there is no rush, a minor ££ lesson learned - my dremel disc isnt big enough so trying to cut it straight was another challenge I may try a saw when the replacements get here - I'll see
 
I probably could do that but I figured if I keep them longer the ends actually tighten on to them so the carbon tube doesn't wiggle on brace bar but sits in place and there is no rush, a minor ££ lesson learned - my dremel disc isnt big enough so trying to cut it straight was another challenge I may try a saw when the replacements get here - I'll see

A trick for marking small diameter tube is to use a pipe cutter for plumbing pipe/ copper pipes. The pipe cutter will mark a nice line for you to follow with your choice of cutting tool. You can use a light duty pipe cutter since you're not trying to actually make the cut with the pipe cutter but just mark a line.

Just beware of pipe cutters with loose fitting cutter wheels as they tend to wander a bit and leave a sloppy line. I'd buy one locally so you can inspect it before buying.
 
A trick for marking small diameter tube is to use a pipe cutter for plumbing pipe/ copper pipes.
marking the tube was easy - but with my little hand dremel and the cutting wheel the tube is actually in the way to cut it thats what causing it - I would need a larger diameter cutting wheel

this is the root cause I need to cut at an angle if the tube needs to be longer
FD866F92-0DE9-4BEC-BBFF-88F6EA3E63AB.jpeg
 
this is the root cause I need to cut at an angle if the tube needs to be longer

A relatively inexpensive fix is to pick up the flex shaft accessory. The hand grip is pretty slim so you can keep the cutting disc at 90degrees to the tube for a clean cut.

The flex shaft is pretty handy to have and you'll probably find other uses for it
 
The cheat code here is to make a rough angled cut beyond your intended mark to get the remaining material out of the way, and then position the cutter from the newly cut end to make the final cut. There won’t be material in the way since you cut it off already. You will waste a little material this way, but you won’t be fighting it the whole way. ??
 
The cheat code here is to make a rough angled cut beyond your intended mark to get the remaining material out of the way, and then position the cutter from the newly cut end to make the final cut. There won’t be material in the way since you cut it off already. You will waste a little material this way, but you won’t be fighting it the whole way. ??
that was also considered at one point ... I'll see what I do when the replacement gets here - I may just use the saw instead


back to topic
Remote Light Switch 3CH LED Light Control Switch System Turn ON / Off Flash for RC Car Mode XSY
I had this laying around for a few weeks as well - as I had the receiver box out and apart anyway it took me quite some time to find it but I got there in the end and I connected it to AUX3
1587151104925.png

I use the L button and set it to momentary so I can cycle through the options by tapping the L button on my DX5Pro and it supports the following:

1) PERM OFF
2) PERM ON
3) Flashing ON/OFF and it cycles through 3 different interval cycles and brightness cycles

took a quick video to show it off - pay close attention to my awesome bin stand :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

 
Last edited:
Previously postponed work:

Carbon Fibre Tubing

I decided to lengthen some of the tubes I did previously to make them even better - I got mine via ebay https://ebay.us/c2nJau

1586962294587.png


So now I have completed the job correctly and I am quite happy with the outcome and I indeed used a saw this time

1587401672890.png




Bulletproof shock rod ends - NOT HAPPENING
I did buy some alternative shock rod ends I intended to put on the Kraton which I also got off ebay: https://ebay.us/v4sJZb with youtube UNRooted RC stated apparently fit perfectly - when I tried them however they wont fit the perch - contacting James on YT he didnt realise he did not use the right reference he used to purchase his and doesn't seem to have the correct ones to reference either - I probably could grind them down a but I am not sure how this may affect them - so don't trust everything you see on YT - and I will just bin them for now.
1586962617619.png


The ones James (Unrooted RC) used were highly polished and didn't seem to have the rectangular fitting at the end which makes it not fit the perch.

One thing I completely forgot I also had installed a 23T pinion with a 25T pinion in the box in case I want a bit more power - still default punch settings though.

So I am waiting for my Red&Tacky to re-grease the differentials before I consider the first upgrades complete.
 
Finally received my Red&Tacky, diff case and screws as my screws completely fell apart mostly.

I have now redone the center diff with TRX5040 Traxxas Differential Oil (20M Weight) and put everything back together.

Greased all my diffs with Red&Tacky after cleaning all of them with break cleaner to get rid of the old residue.

Next I had to reinstall everything and reconnect my lights.

just a few pictures of everything back installed

1588172969495.png


1588173009007.png


1588173067621.png


I will run this first before changing the ESC punch to the now recommended 5 as per latest information from Arrma

1588173178595.png


Lets see what further changes I will make over time ... to be continued
 
Previously postponed work:

Carbon Fibre Tubing

I decided to lengthen some of the tubes I did previously to make them even better - I got mine via ebay https://ebay.us/c2nJau

View attachment 75875

So now I have completed the job correctly and I am quite happy with the outcome and I indeed used a saw this time

View attachment 75876



Bulletproof shock rod ends - NOT HAPPENING
I did buy some alternative shock rod ends I intended to put on the Kraton which I also got off ebay: https://ebay.us/v4sJZb with youtube UNRooted RC stated apparently fit perfectly - when I tried them however they wont fit the perch - contacting James on YT he didnt realise he did not use the right reference he used to purchase his and doesn't seem to have the correct ones to reference either - I probably could grind them down a but I am not sure how this may affect them - so don't trust everything you see on YT - and I will just bin them for now.
View attachment 75877

The ones James (Unrooted RC) used were highly polished and didn't seem to have the rectangular fitting at the end which makes it not fit the perch.

One thing I completely forgot I also had installed a 23T pinion with a 25T pinion in the box in case I want a bit more power - still default punch settings though.

So I am waiting for my Red&Tacky to re-grease the differentials before I consider the first upgrades complete.
It's probably for the best. If the rod ends are bullet proof the rod becomes the weak link. Easier to replace the rod ends i think. Tekno makes some really good rod end and cups for 1/8 scales. I put them on all of my front shocks and they have held up very well. I wonder if Tekno makes any 1/5ish scale components.
Great build!!
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top