Talion Racing specific upgrades?

[Sledgehog]

Just curious as to any track specific upgrades I may need for my new Talion in the future. It's a 2018 v3 and so far I have the Voltage aluminum front/rear chassis braces and servo mount/clamps, an SMC 4s 100C battery (class reqs are 4s) ,and some Tbone racing rear mudguards.

Besides better electronic upgrades and possibly wheels/tires specific for the track surface, are they any "necessary" upgrades I should be looking at getting?
keep in mind, I'm trying to avoid many more aluminum parts to keep the weight down, but I figured the Voltage aluminum steering rack might be the next upgrade I'd get. Anything else "obvious" I'm missing and should be looking at for the future?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Piecejointe]

Better servo (one that won't die in the middle of the race) and bearings for the steering rack.

 

[Sledgehog]

Yeah, I was going to upgrade to a nice Savox or something in the future for sure, but that's a pricey upgrade after what i just spent on all this, lol. My wallet hates me and needs a break on the bigger stuff atm.

I haven't actually noticed but the steering rack has bushings? Def pick up some bearings if that's the case. Thanks.

 

[Jimbobjr]

Assortment of shock oil and springs. Try to find out what others are using for the track you are at. Good field charger and some more 4s batteries. Maybe down the road a senored motor and esc if your think you need it. Have fun, wish I still had a track near by. I think the v3 talion makes a nice racer.

 

[Piecejointe]

The stock shock oil is 2000cst so to replace that or go thicker you're looking at diff oil (it's the same stuff).

 

[Yonic]

I'm never raced, so take everything i say with a grain of salt, but what i think is:
Tires - it's not a "possibly", it's a must, the stock don't have much side grip, and racing is all about turning.
Servo - again, turning. Something much quicker and a littler stronger is critical
Lighter sway bars - The stock keeps the car super stable, but i believe it hurts the "bite" on turns
Oils - The center diff should have much lighter oil

 

[slick2500]

I would try to source some v2 talion hubs and stub axles to narrow it up a bit otherwise it might be too wide for some classes. Not sure what kind of restrictions your local track has on that. But I would look into it to make sure.
AR310487 is for the stub axles
AR310484 for the hubs

 

[Sledgehog]

Thanks Slick but the stock hubs/axles are fine class-wise atm. I have a buddy who has raced his v3 talion pure stock for the past summer season and it's a pretty laid-back club environment as well. Only strict restrictions they have are the battery @ a 4S limit. It's a huge track but a 6s would be overpowered anyways for it I think. I'll still pick one up for fun-running in the future though. It's on the "expensive upgrade" list along with a Savox and some nice racing tires/rims.

@Yonic Most of the guys at the track run blockades or holeshots I believe. As mentioned above, those and a servo are on the "future wishlist" already.
I'll have to run the car a bit and see how the diff performs and the sways but definitely something to keep in mind!

Thanks everyone who has replied so far as well. Complete beginner to the racing scene and every bit helps!

 

[slick2500]

Thanks Slick but the stock hubs/axles are fine class-wise atm. I have a buddy who has raced his v3 talion pure stock for the past summer season and it's a pretty laid-back club environment as well. Only strict restrictions they have are the battery @ a 4S limit. It's a huge track but a 6s would be overpowered anyways for it I think. I'll still pick one up for fun-running in the future though. It's on the "expensive upgrade" list along with a Savox and some nice racing tires/rims.

@Yonic Most of the guys at the track run blockades or holeshots I believe. As mentioned above, those and a servo are on the "future wishlist" already.
I'll have to run the car a bit and see how the diff performs and the sways but definitely something to keep in mind!

Thanks everyone who has replied so far as well. Complete beginner to the racing scene and every bit helps!

Right on man. Good to know that your track is pretty laid back about that.

 

[Sledgehog]

Yeah, every person there is completely helpful and welcoming for new people, and the skill range goes from complete newbs like me right up to team racers from companies like Tekno and Losi. I say 'local" track but it's actually 2 hours away, but worth the drive every Sunday I can make it. Can't wait for next season to throw this bad boy down and start breaking stuff, lol.

 

[Nitr0EngiEx]

I have videos about racing the kraton which is similar

39mm ride height rear 37 front
45wt oil front shock 40 rear
10k front 15k middle 7k rear diff fluid
-2 camber in the rear

Get tekno shock mounts

I have videos that explain the tekno mounts and other stuff.

Holeshot tires or grid iron from aka

Any other questions just ask

 

[Sledgehog]

Thanks so much! I'll def check out your vids.

Anyone have any pinion size suggestions for a dirt track with the rest of the gearing staying stock? Keeping in mind I'm running 4s.

 

[Forker45]

I’ve been running my V3 since early in the year at a local outdoor clay track.

I run 15T pinion w gensacearespammers 5000mah 4S hard case packs. I replaced the factory arms with RPM set because it pulled a pivot ball out of one of the fronts after many gnarly crashes learning to race. Also running the RPM mudguards and Holeshots on 0 offset wheels.

Replaced factory servo with a cheap amazon unit and mounted it on Hot Racing aluminum mount. I run one in my sons Typhon and they’re faster and stronger than the factory one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU7TQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eVuaCb36ZPHVY

I’ve broken 2 of the plastic front braces but I prefer to just replace w plastic for light weight and as a “fuse” rather than bending the chassis or breaking diff bulkheads. It usually takes a serious hit to break it.

Other than that it’s stock oils and just has preloads adjusted. I was running times a few weeks back in Friday night practice that would have put me 2-3rd in club race I missed so hoping I can do well in this next one coming up mid December.

 

[Sledgehog]

Awesome Fork
Yeah, I already have the Voltage aluminum servo mount/clamps, Tbone racing rear mud guards, and will be upgrading the servo in the future as one of my first upgrades.
Also agree with you on the plastic in the front. Always better to have the cheapy part break than the chassis bend for sure!

Nice to know you're running stock oils as well and I was thinking of getting the 15t but wasn't sure what others were using with the rest of the stock gearbox.

 

[Forker45]

Well I broke another front brace last Friday night so I ordered up a Hot Racing unit. Every one I’ve broken has split where the nut is captured. I’ve got a design I may try 3D printing to test out but the HR piece will get me through the club race this weekend with more confidence than another arrma part.

 

[Sledgehog]

Mind posting a pic of where it keeps breaking on you?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

As a new racer, the #1 upgrade you can do is -

Track Time!

Yeah, bling is cool and all, but really, wheel time will make your biggest improvements.

Beyond that, as others have said - tires, servo, and I'll add radio.

Tires - buy what the locals run. If they run Super Soft, maybe buy Soft (for now), just so they last a bit longer...

Servo - something with 300oz of torque, and around 0.10s speed. Make sure it has these stats at 6.0v (BLX185 BEC voltage)

And Radio - get something with easy to adjust EPA, and throttle/steering expo. Model memory is good too, so you can set a "bash", "race" and "practice" profile for your car. Maybe even a "kid" profile, if that applies to you.

Last - when you are learning to race, Slower is Faster! Racing is not about getting big air and clearing the triple, or how fast you are down the main straight. Racing is making good, consistent lap times. Don't be afraid to set your EPA to 50% for the first few practice laps of the day. Dial it up as you get in the groove. If you can't run 5-10 clean laps in a row, dial the EPA back another 10%. Find a speed that is right for you, drive your own race, and don't worry about the leaders (except to let them pass clean). As you get more wheel time, you consistency will improve, and you can start to add speed.

Last - Have Fun!

 

[Sledgehog]

Slower is Faster! Racing is not about getting big air and clearing the triple, or how fast you are down the main straight. Racing is making good, consistent lap times

Agreed! I hope anyone else here new to racing takes this more than anything away from this thread. I was able to take 2nd fastest qualifying lap time in two qualifiers and 3rd in the finals on my first race day ever because of this exact mentality. I even would have had second but I got rambunctious on a double and flipped it.

 

[Forker45]

Mind posting a pic of where it keeps breaking on you?

Here’s #2 & 3. You can see they break right through the hole for the screw. There’s only about 1/8” of material taking all the load so it’s a clear weak point. I think with a minor design change to the geometry here and the plastic brace would be just fine. Then again maybe it’s the design intent...
Like I said I’ve got a design I want to try out, so we’ll see.

 

[Sledgehog]

Oh this is the front chassis brace? I thought it was something else... I already have the Voltage Hobbies front and rear aluminums to install, but they are an Xmas present so I have to wait
https://www.voltagehobbies.com/store/c6/Talion_Upgrades_.html#/
For some reason in my head I was thinking of a different part, like a bulkhead.