- Reaction score
I want to start racing my talion. Does anyone race theirs? If so did you change out anything besides tires?
Just trying to race local tracks here in Iowa. Nothing crazy. I got x cons for tires, i think next year at this time I’ll be picking up a nice pro kit. But just kind of wanted to get a feel for 1/8 scale racing this yearAre you trying to race competively if so buying an professonal kit is the way to go just for fun youd probably want to pick up some 1/8 nitro oval tires and stiffen your front shocks loosen your rear gear your car depending on the track if you have more question just pm me
I ran the shocks upright and camber link shorter on the rear and I really enjoyed the result. More control of the rear end in turns.I run my Talion at the track, i can share my experience.
You can setup it to run very very well with other truggies, but not in the stock EXB form. the Talion was the most "track ready" on the old v3, and it got less and less agile with the v4 and especially the EXB version.
So what i changed is:
I'm not mentioning the more trivial stuff, like correct tires, setting camber and toe, ride height and correct droop (the exb shock are capable of really long droop, not good for a track, so use the droop screws to control it)
- Remove parts to reduce weight - remove the center brace, change to plastic chassis braces, center hoop thingy with the long pins, the motor heatsink. weight just make the car feel sluggish, and too much bracing makes the car stiff and drive worse on bumps and landings.
- Diffs - Remove the LSD plates with the spacers from #ARA311094, and while the diffs are open use something like 10k-20k-5k instead of the stock 10k-100k-10k
- Arms - Change the arms to the v4 ones, they are much stiffer and provide much sharper handling. you'll need the non-EXB shock pins as well and the wide sway bar for the rear (#AR330201)
- Tuning - Move the shocks to the outer holes on the tower, shorten the rear camber link by mouting it in the outer (not inner) hole on the tower, also consider moving to 1000cst oil in the shocks (depending on how fast is the track)
These changes will change the handling to be night and day compared to the stock EXB talion.
I tried out +3mm front and +6mm rear and shorter rear tie rod (both sides inner now). Very tight track and is pretty nice like this.Yeah it makes the rear end much more responsive. good for tighter tracks. if you're track is really tight you can try even shorter, by mouting on the inner hole on the hub as well. The stock (long) link is really there for really fast/sweeping conditions. like running 70mph on a parking lot, but less good for twists and turns.
For droop i use this method:
I have 36mm blocks (3d printed), so if i set the bottom of the hex to 30mm (using a ride-height gauge), i consider the droop as "zero" (it's the same height as the chassis, as the chassis is at 36mm, and the hexes bottom are at 30mm, but as the axle is 12mm in dia, it has 6mm more to reach the center of the hex).
If i set the hex to 25mm, it means the droop is 5mm below the chassis, what i call a +5mm droop.
If i set the hex to 35mm, so the droop is 5mm above the chassis, what i call -5mm.
Relative droop is the difference between the front and the rear. so in the example above i would have 10mm relative droop.
Droop will have a massive effect on how happy is the car to turn. Always set the fronts to be equal or less droop than the rears. As you see in Ronnefalk video, he set his car with a massive 8mm relative droop (-4mm front, +4mm rear), i'm currently using milder setting of 3mm relative droop (+3mm front, +6 rear).
Waiting on the diff parts to make them open.