Raider XL BLX - Build Log

Raffa

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Arrma RC's
  1. Raider
IMG_1700.JPG


I am making this post to document my journey into RC's with my ARRMA Raiders.

When starting off I found it difficult to find posts about the Raider due to it being a less popular vehicle. With ARRMA's 1/10th line in general there is little available for help and photos for guidance. Therefore in this post I am hoping to share a good variety of photos and explain the upgrades and mods that I have done to my vehicles.

I purchased my first BLS Raider New Years Eve 2015 after spending the night driving around my friends cheap eBay no brand Short Course Truck. While we were all sitting around that night I was on my phone researching RC’s and came to conclusion that Hobby Grade RC’s are better due to being able to replace parts. Somehow I ended up finding the ARRMA Raider BLS (AR102614). I love the shape and design of the buggy and it reviewed well. My first RC purchase!
I received the Raider a couple weeks later and with further research I bought two Venom LiPos (Hardcase 5000mAh 30C) and a charger (Sky RC Imax B6AC+ V2).

BLS.jpg


I bashed around three environments. A dirt BMX track, a grass oval near my home, and my family farm in the middle of country NSW.
I was amazed by the Raider, the speed was great and I really enjoyed the oversteer style of driving with the rear engine rear wheel drive. With many crashes and breakages I was still having a blast.
Most of the problems I had were the shock caps falling off and I ended up having my ESC catch fire one time. I also went through 2 servos due to the plastic gears stripping themselves. All servos and ESC replaced through warranty thankfully.

These were the upgrades I performed on my Raider BLS over the first few months all of these upgrades were only done because they were able to be installed with no effort:
  • T-Bone Raider front bumper (10000)
  • T-Bone Granite rear bumper (10009)
  • T-Bone 1/10 truck wheelie bar (96020)
  • Aluminium front shock tower brace (AR330226)
  • Pro-Line Trenchers Mounted (1159-13)
  • ADS-7M V2 7kg Metal Servo (AR390136)
  • Pro-Line Pro-Spec Shock Kit 1/10 Buggy Rear (6267-01)
  • Pro-Line Pro-Spec Rear Spring Yellow Medium Kit (6308-18)
  • Pro-Line Pro-Spec Shock Kit 1/10 Buggy Front (6267-00)
  • Pro-Line Pro-Spec Front Spring Yellow Medium Kit (6308-13)
  • TLR Silicone Shock Oil 40wt (TLR74010)


My uncle up on my family farm took turns with my Raider and loved it and looked to purchase one of his own to use with my younger cousins. I highly recommended an Arrma vehicle to him. One night while planning out more upgrades for my own Raider I decided that I would offer my current Raider for him to buy off of me and with that money I would buy myself the 2016 Raider XL BLX. This became my 2nd RC purchase!

Because the shocks I bought were so expensive and my uncle didn't feel like LiPo power was appropriate for 10 year olds I was to keep my current Pro-Line shocks and my LiPos basically giving them a stock Raider with a few minor upgrades at a good discount.

I absolutely loved my BLS Raider, but the BLX XL was another level. The increased size absorbed bumps so much better and carried itself over grass a lot better. I decided that this time I would invest a lot more time and money into this Raider and make achieve its best potential and last forever. So when ordering the Raider I also decided to purchase some other upgrades from the start. Particularly things that were not included in the 2016 model that were in the 2014 BLX XL. Here’s what I upgraded out of the box.
New BLX.jpg


After seeing a forum post about the issue I also noticed that most of the time the front shock tower breaks when upside down and the screws at the front dig into the ground and rip the tower. So after trip to my local hobby shop I purchased some shock tower spacers that perfectly put the nut to the end of the thread reducing the chances of it being able to dig into the ground. They look great too! I also found it annoying to turn the buggy on and off with the side guards in the way. So I moved the switch to inside the rollcage and cable tied it to the chassis. I also used some small cable ties to secure the wing mount after reading online that it was a weak point in the wing structure (never had a problem and still yet to).

Heres the blue spacers I used.
Spacers.jpg


I bashed the Raider so much harder than my BLS and rolled over almost never where my BLS would roll quite easily. I discovered that the Pro-Line shocks from my BLS were way too short in the rear and after bashing around a couple of times it became clear that having a lower ride height in the back on the grass and first was causing the buggy to suffer in turning and over bumps. I ordered some of the larger Pro-Line shocks that match the current shocks you can see the significance in the ride height in the photo below.
When I installed my chassis braces I used the screws that were already installed but I wanted to secure the plate properly and to do so I would need 8mm screws for the parts that connected directly into the chassis and 10mm for the parts where the screws pass through other parts to reach the chassis (Like the side guards).

Shocks and Frame.jpg

I also decided to invest in some aluminium steering knuckles, front casters, rear hubs and hinge pin mounts. Aiming to improve durability. Not necessarily for looks (hence the gun metal colour). It is extremely important to threadlock the screws going into the aluminium parts to stop them from coming out.
I wasn't really happy with my steering on dirt, so I decided to start messing with my suspension setup changing up the springs in the front and rear (currently super soft/blue in front and super hard/ purple in rear). On the farm being a super uneven surface going to much softer springs in the front reduced the bouncing in the front end allowing it to travel much smoother over the terrain.

Here’s the list of parts I used for upgrades at that point in time:
  • Button Head Screw 3x8mm (AR721308)
  • Button Head Screw 3x10mm (AR721310)
  • Aluminium Front Steering Knuckle - Gun Metal (STR310002FGM)
  • Aluminium Front Caster Block - Gun Metal (STR340001GM)
  • Aluminium Rear Hub Carrier - Gun Metal (STR310002RGM)
  • Aluminium Hinge Pin Mount (STR330168GM)
  • Pro-Spec Short Course Front Spring Assortment (6308-21)
  • Pro-Spec Short Course Rear Spring Assortment (6308-22)
  • Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks SC Rear (6308-31)
  • TLR Silicone Shock Oil 40wt (TLR74010)
Aluminium Parts.jpg


Originally I was going to keep the T-Bone bumpers and I put them on my Raider BLX but the fit wasn't quite right and I discovered that T-Bone started making bumpers specifically for the XL Raider so I gave my bumpers to my uncle for his BLS and ordered my own.
I loved having the bumpers on my BLS especially when I was learning and practicing my jumps. Was always good to have something to absorb the bad landings and bad judgement when going through obstacles. I also ordered very useful body clip magnets and the optional light bracket and the shock covers. The shock covers are great especially when on dirt. My rear springs would cop a beating regularly. The front tires kick up a lot of stones and I will talk about that more later.

This is the list of what I have ordered from TBone:
  • T-Bone Raider XL Front Bumper (10025)
  • T-Bone Raider XL Rear Bumper (10026)
  • T-Bone Raider XL Optional Light Bracket (10027)
  • Dusty Motors Universal Shock Covers (85035)
  • T-Bone Body Clip Magnets (85032)
T-Bone Bumpers.jpg


At this point I wanted to convert my plastic gearbox to metal. After following the forum posts I ordered everything that was recommended. I also recommend white lithium grease for inside the gearbox to help with the gears and reducing wear. However there was things (marked with a #) that weren't on the forum posts I needed to order afterwards to be able to make it work.

Here’s the list:
  • 59mm Input ShaftBLX 2014 (AR310599)
  • Idler Gear 20T Metal (AR310016)
  • Differential Idler Gear Set (AR310416)
  • BLX Metal Gear, Gearbox Set (AR310001)
  • Metal Motor Mount (AR320007)
  • Flat Head Screw 8mm (AR722308)
  • Button Head Screw 3x12mm (AR721312)
  • Large Cap Head Motor Screw 3x6mm (AR704306)#
  • Motor Guard (AR320181)#
  • Rollcage Set Rear (AR320211)#
  • Permatex White Lithium Grease (80345)
  • Team Associated Silicone Diff Fluid 30k cst (5457)

I have also decided to have multiple roof and roll cages for my Raider that I will change out as needed. I have mounted a GoPro to the roof and I wish to install lights for running at dusk/ night. I also discovered that to install the aluminium roof you need brackets that only come with a rollcage set. I figured it is always good to have spares anyway. I am yet to receive the light kit and will update the post when these come.
I also finally decided to mount the ESC fan that I got with the Raider. I originally was reluctant to put this on due to the amount of gravel and stones that get flicked into the rollcage, but I purchased some aluminium mesh from a body repair patch kit and cut it to shape and put it over the fan. While I wait for parts I am still working on reducing the amount of gravel that ends up inside the roll cage from the front wheels (See photo for example). Using some cardboard as a test I have worked on a cover to protect the inside of the roll cage, it will require the metal roof when I am happy with how it looks I will use the aluminium mesh and hopefully it will come together nicely.

Dirt Protection.jpg


Heres the part numbers:
  • Raider XL Roll Cage (AR320316)
  • Metal Roof Raider XL (AR320326)
  • Axial Light Bucket Set (AX80045)
  • Axial Light Set with Controller (AX24257)
  • Motorspray Repair Patch (DI05833)

I recently received my sealed Fast Eddy Bearings and replaced all of my stock unsealed bearings that easily got dirt and dust in them.
Some final changes I want to make is to strengthen the steering by installing aluminium hot racing parts, I am hoping this will strengthen the steering and stop it from being so sloppy. I also have had problems with the rear hex’s coming off a lot when removing the wheels so I have some hex adapters which will hopefully lock to the axle and keep attached. During a Tower Hobbies sale I also picked up some of the black mounted DBoots tires for the Raider which I feel will match my rear Pro-Line wheels better. When I have all of this I will update with photos and more details.
  • Fast Eddy Bearings for Raider BLX XL (Arrma- RaiderXLBLX2k16-RS)
  • Hot Racing Aluminium Bellcrank Servo Saver (ARM4802)
  • STRC Precision Aluminium Rear Hex Adapters Gun Metal (STR310464RGM)
  • Sand Scorpion DB XL Tire/Wheel Black Front (AR550024)

Currently I am waiting for the rest of the gearbox parts, my lights, my hex’s and my aluminium steering parts. I am also looking into the rear end, maybe putting some 90mm Redcat dogbones (08029) or Duratrax Evader EXT dogbone (DTXC7457). I like the idea of changing away from dogbones but I prefer to be able to do it without much effort and modification. Im also interested in swapping one of the cup ball ends in the rear to be screwed in similar to the front end. Also thinking about possibly doing a 4 gear diff and moving up from my 2S LiPo to 3S.


To conclude this post here are some photos of the Outcast my brother purchased after I visited him on his farm and he spent time with my Raider. Very different vehicles but after driving his I actually have a desire to get myself a 1/8th ARRMA, possibly a Kraton or something similar that gets released this year.

Outcast vs Raider.jpg


Please ask questions or if you have any advice feedback or criticisms I would love to hear it!

IMG_1681.jpg
 

dmac_73

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
Unfortunately not. One of those smaller spacer pieces are needed from that set. On the stock one it's moulded into the gearbox part.

Does this apply for all models such as Granite or just raider i wonder?
 

Rdub

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Can you not use the stock one?

It was on my list to see what parts that spacer came with. That saved me a little time. Did the gearbox a while ago, but then winter set in so she's been sitting idle. Got to get ready for spring!!!
Can you not use the stock one?

Thanks. That just saved me some time. Been meaning to find out what part that spacer came with. Did the gear box a while ago but never got that spacer. Now I can get her ready for spring, 100% ready to go!!
 

mudman

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Did you purchase the Pro-Spec front shocks too or did you use two sets of Pro-Spec Shocks SC Rear (6308-31)? I notice you purchase both front and rear spring assortments.
 

Raffa

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  1. Raider
Did you purchase the Pro-Spec front shocks too or did you use two sets of Pro-Spec Shocks SC Rear (6308-31)? I notice you purchase both front and rear spring assortments.

In my XL Raider I used
  • Pro-Spec Short Course Front Spring Assortment (6308-21)
  • Pro-Spec Short Course Rear Spring Assortment (6308-22)
  • Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks SC Rear (6308-31)
  • Pro-Line Pro-Spec Shock Kit 1/10 Buggy Rear (6267-01)
I have the pre-assembled SC shocks in the rear with the Buggy rear shocks in the front.
I run on very uneven ground so I have the softest spring in the front and the stiffest springs in the rear. My aim was to keep the front down as much as possible and try and prevent it from lifting up.
 

mudman

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Thanks for your response. Would the Pro-Line Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks SC Front also work? P/N 6308-30.
 

Raffa

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Thanks for your response. Would the Pro-Line Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks SC Front also work? P/N 6308-30.

From what the website has this is the dimensions of all the Pro-Spec Shocks.

Buggy Front: 6267-00
Extended- 76.5mm
Collapsed- 56mm

Buggy Rear: 6267-01
Extended- 91mm
Collapsed- 64mm

SC Front: 6308-30
Extended- 88mm
Collapsed- 62.5mm

SC Rear: 6308-31
Extended- 100mm
Collapsed- 62.5mm

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do both SC shocks in the raider. I just chose mine based on comparison sizes to the stock XL size.
 

mudman

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Thanks again. How did you get the size of the stock shocks? Can you publish them here? I can see the advantage of running the softer springs up front.

You haven't played around with any other tires/wheels besides the Trenchers? I would like to get some taller, wider tires/wheels but I am not having much success determining the inner diameter of the wheels out there so I can make sure there will be enough clearance for the suspension.

Also, interested in going to some universal joint driveshafts. Any experience with those? Have you had any problems with your outdrive and axle cups wearing out from the dogbone pins?

Appreciate all your info.
 

Raffa

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Thanks again. How did you get the size of the stock shocks? Can you publish them here? I can see the advantage of running the softer springs up front.

You haven't played around with any other tires/wheels besides the Trenchers? I would like to get some taller, wider tires/wheels but I am not having much success determining the inner diameter of the wheels out there so I can make sure there will be enough clearance for the suspension.

Also, interested in going to some universal joint driveshafts. Any experience with those? Have you had any problems with your outdrive and axle cups wearing out from the dogbone pins?

Appreciate all your info.
From memory I think I measured the stock shocks.
I have a set of Pro-Line Badlands on the way I will update my post when I have them and all my LED lights hooked up!
I have looked into the Universal joints there are some posts out there about people who have put them in but they had to change the arms and hubs to make it work and I'm not really keen on doing that seeing as I've already spent money and upgraded the hubs. I'm currently using the 83mm dogbones that came with my Raider but I am also expecting longer dogbones in the same order as my Badlands.
 

mudman

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Awesome. Looking forward to your update on the Badlands and the lights. What is your recollection of the lengths of the stock shocks? Do you find that there is a lot of back-and-forth play with your 83mm dogbones? I am thinking of adding an extra o-ring on one side or the other to take up some play, and hopefully prevent the dogbones from popping out.
 

mudman

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How did those Badlands work out?

I put some Dirt Runners on my Raider XL to get a little extra width but after just one session of driving the pin spikes on the outside of one of the rears almost completely wore off. Other than that I really liked the way they handled.
 

Raffa

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How did those Badlands work out?

I put some Dirt Runners on my Raider XL to get a little extra width but after just one session of driving the pin spikes on the outside of one of the rears almost completely wore off. Other than that I really liked the way they handled.

I'm still waiting for them to arrive. (Takes about 4 weeks for parts to get to me in Australia from Tower Hobbies.)

It should be arriving any day so I'll update when I get them!

Sucks to hear you had problems like that, the only thing that makes me think the Badlands will be okay is the fact they are basically the same as the Backflips on the Outcast and we are yet to have any problems.
 

antsiranean

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Greatly written, thanks a lot! What screws did you use to fasten the aluminum side plates (AR320200) to the chassis?
 

mudman

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Raffa. What did you use for the shock covers? The black ones shown in one of your photos? Thanks
 
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