Granite Razor RC Granite 4x4 BLX v3

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Love these little guys. They're so crazy and unruly, and a little hard to drive, but so much fun!

3some.jpg
 
GRC said:
I've seen several YouTubers (including RazorRC) say the Traxxas Maxx is one of the most, if not the most durable RC out of the box. If durability is the priority, it may be the best choice. I've thought of getting the Maxx, but judging from the videos, I just don't like the way it handles. I have a Granite, I've needed quite a few upgrades to improve durability, but at this point it's quite solid.
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I have the same feeling. Im not sure I like how the Maxx handles from the videos I saw. In Canada the granite is 430 and max is 800. I have 3s batteries from my exb so I think even if I have the do some upgrades on the granite I'm ok with that . Picking it up today or tomorrow!
 
The next 1/10 I get will be the Granite BRCC V3. What a sweet looking truck.

Am I the only one who looked up how to set up a slipper clutch and actually did it? It sometimes seems that way. I started end of May with my son with an ECX Amp MT 2WD kit and setting the slipper properly was one the first things I did. I don't understand why people think it's better to just crank them super tight and then upgrade the driveline parts you inevitably break. A properly set slipper will save a lot of breakage and it's not difficult.
 
Broke a battery strap today, first time I can remember breaking one. Truck took some massive hits and nothing else broke.

My slipper was set about 3/4 turn too tight, recommend checking that out. I think that’s why the truck was lacking rear grip out of the box.

New shock seals do NOT leak, definitely if you have that problem with your older Granite, the new ones are worth buying.

Rear arms do not have enough droop, similar to many other MTs like the Hoss.

Running 47.5 wt AE (613 CST) oil up front, balances out the rear better. Also, do NOT overfill the shocks. Fill to about 5mm below the threads. The self-bleeding thing doesn’t work as well with the new seals, you can bleed a little fluid, but not buckets.
 
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razorrc said:
Broke a battery strap today, first time I can remember breaking one. Truck took some massive hits and nothing else broke.

My slipper was set about 3/4 turn too tight, recommend checking that out. I think that’s why the truck was lacking rear grip out of the box.

New shock seals do NOT leak, definitely if you have that problem with your older Granite, the new ones are worth buying.

Rear arms do not have enough droop, similar to many other MTs like the Hoss.

Running 47.5 wt AE (613 CST) oil up front, balances out the rear better. Also, do NOT overfill the shocks. Fill to about 5mm below the threads. The self-bleeding thing doesn’t work as well with the new seals, you can bleed a little fluid, but not buckets.
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@razorrc do you plan on getting the V3 Bigrock? Would like to see you review that one! ?
 
razorrc said:
New shock seals do NOT leak, definitely if you have that problem with your older Granite, the new ones are worth buying.
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I special ordered the new seals last week and picked them up today. I'm not sure these will be any better.

O-Rings.jpg


Are the new o-rings really clear as shown on Arrma's website?
razorrc said:
New shock seals do NOT leak, definitely if you have that problem with your older Granite, the new ones are worth buying.
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How is the new slipper holding? Any need for Loctite on this latest incarnation?
 
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The biggest issue imo is the rod ends my friend has a bigrock and a typhon and oh boy he kept breaking them.. the rod just pulls trought its sad he broke 3 in one jump once
 
Surchaufeur said:
The biggest issue imo is the rod ends my friend has a bigrock and a typhon and oh boy he kept breaking them.. the rod just pulls trought its sad he broke 3 in one jump once
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Shock rod end or turnbuckle? I've had a few shock rod ends pull out of the Kraton 4S and Granite now.
 
razorrc said:
Shock rod end or turnbuckle? I've had a few shock rod ends pull out of the Kraton 4S and Granite now.
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Once again, I feel that the shock rods end pulling out started on the V2 and now the v3. I've got a V1 granite and a V1 typhon and never had a shock rod end pull out of either after a lot of heavy bashing. My V1 granite has never broken anything, I've broken an a arm and shock body after clipping a tree in my typhon, that was my fault but it's been a tank otherwise. I truly belive the V1 cars are the strongest out of the lot. ?‍♂️
razorrc said:
Broke a battery strap today, first time I can remember breaking one. Truck took some massive hits and nothing else broke.

My slipper was set about 3/4 turn too tight, recommend checking that out. I think that’s why the truck was lacking rear grip out of the box.

New shock seals do NOT leak, definitely if you have that problem with your older Granite, the new ones are worth buying.

Rear arms do not have enough droop, similar to many other MTs like the Hoss.

Running 47.5 wt AE (613 CST) oil up front, balances out the rear better. Also, do NOT overfill the shocks. Fill to about 5mm below the threads. The self-bleeding thing doesn’t work as well with the new seals, you can bleed a little fluid, but not buckets.
Click to expand...
So your slipper was set at 3/4 turn out from factory? I've never really unsterstood how to set the slipper correctly. I usually run 3/4 to a full turn out and seems good to me. But I could be wrong. What did you find a good setting for your slipper?
 
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murphy0987 said:
Once again, I feel that the shock rods end pulling out started on the V2 and now the v3. I've got a V1 granite and a V1 typhon and never had a shock rod end pull out of either after a lot of heavy bashing. My V1 granite has never broken anything, I've broken an a arm and shock body after clipping a tree in my typhon, that was my fault but it's been a tank otherwise. I truly belive the V1 cars are the strongest out of the lot. ?‍♂️
Click to expand...

I have no idea if they changed the plastics or the factory, but yeah my V1 broke less stuff in a year than my V3 did in a week.

So your slipper was set at 3/4 turn out from factory? I've never really unsterstood how to set the slipper correctly. I usually run 3/4 to a full turn out and seems good to me. But I could be wrong. What did you find a good setting for your slipper?
Click to expand...

I don't know what it was set from the factory, I loosened it another 3/4 turn from where it was from the factory. My factory setting was too tight. It's hard to explain too loose or too tight, I need to make a video to show it. But basically you just want to take the very sharp edge off the initial power hit when going full throttle from a standstill on high traction.

This is the best video I've seen on setting your slipper. It's a 2WD short course truck, but hopefully it gives you some idea of what you're looking for. I have my Granite set a little tighter than his final setting, because it has more power than that 2WD he has. Skip ahead to 6:22.

 
razorrc said:
I have no idea if they changed the plastics or the factory, but yeah my V1 broke less stuff in a year than my V3 did in a week.



I don't know what it was set from the factory, I loosened it another 3/4 turn from where it was from the factory. My factory setting was too tight. It's hard to explain too loose or too tight, I need to make a video to show it. But basically you just want to take the very sharp edge off the initial power hit when going full throttle from a standstill on high traction.

This is the best video I've seen on setting your slipper. It's a 2WD short course truck, but hopefully it gives you some idea of what you're looking for. I have my Granite set a little tighter than his final setting, because it has more power than that 2WD he has. Skip ahead to 6:22.

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Thanks
 
Yonic said:
:)
stock servo saver? I don’t think mine can do these clean tight turns
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Yeah. Truck is all stock except I removed a preload spacer from each shock. I don't have my V1 Granite anymore, but just turning it by hand the new 23T servo saver seems stiffer. Servo is a little stronger too, so a nice improvement in that area!
 
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