BLX RC Screws

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Lingerfelter6

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I am having a lot of issues with the stock screws, some are getting stripped and some are beginning to rust despite applying WD 40 after every tear down and cleaning session. I was looking at purchasing 2 things here:

1) MIP hex power tool tips for use with my Bosch electric screwdriver
2) RC Screwz for the Talion

This will cost me me a good USD 70 excluding international shipping. I figure it is a worthwhile investment becasue I want to spend less time wrenching and have the peace of mind knowing that screws will hold up good during every run.

It's a fair amount of money to part with, but are there better alternatives for the amount spent?
 

slick2500

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I have the MIP Thorp drivers and so far they are awesome.

The downside of the stainless steel screws is that stainless steel is softer than hardened steel so they tend to bend easier.
I too am sick of looking at the rusty screws on my rcs but I've tried stainless screws before on my upper shock mounts in my Outcast and after 1 bash session they were bent to hell.
If they weren't so expensive I would try titanium screws.
 

WoodiE

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If you don't mind buying in bulk, check out mcmaster.com you can pretty much any screw you want there and they usually sell in bulk so you'll have enough screws to rebuild your RC many many times over. In the long run it's much cheaper than a screw kit.

Plus, as @slick2500 mentioned. Many of the screw kits use some pretty weak stainless steel so they look pretty but don't last nearly as long.
 
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Lingerfelter6

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I have the MIP Thorp drivers and so far they are awesome.

The downside of the stainless steel screws is that stainless steel is softer than hardened steel so they tend to bend easier.
I too am sick of looking at the rusty screws on my rcs but I've tried stainless screws before on my upper shock mounts in my Outcast and after 1 bash session they were bent to hell.
If they weren't so expensive I would try titanium screws.
Now the thought of stainless steel bending easier does not bode well for me. Might even strip easier. I was looking at Tony's screws, but they have no kits for Arrma. I wish Arrma would list out the exact size and length for each screw used, and then I could source out the screws myself without relying on kits. But I will definitely go with the MIP
 
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Lingerfelter6

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The parts list document does list them, albiet it's not the most user friendly.
Thank you! I did not know such a doc existed. If that's the case, I am better off sourcing screws myself locally, I am sure it will be more cost effective. Will consider your suggestion of buying them in bulk as I tear down and rebuild quite often, because OCD.
 

slick2500

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Your not kidding. I got mine recently and wish I had right from the start. It really is not something that is even optional. It is more trouble than it is worth NOT to.
I bought 2 other hex sets before I bought my MIPs, neither of them lasted 6 months before the tips rounded out. Since getting my MIPs I have not stripped out a single screw.
 

bicketybam

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Just a tip, electric tools are great for unscrewing, but when re-screwing things in start them with the electric but ALWAYS finish by hand. You'll strip a lot less that way.
Especially when you were screwing in the plastic.
 

Mongoose

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Yep, MIP drivers for sure, can’t stress it enough.

+2 on McMaster-Carr....you can get 316 SS screws, 400 series screws or even Titanium.
 

Jerry-rigged

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Lots of good info above.
Yes, the SS is softer than the stock screws. Other than the rust issue, the stock screws are pretty good.
MIP (or any not cheap brand) will make all your screws last a LOT longer. I have MIP for my power driver, and EDS for my hand tools, and have only stripped one screw since switching over (from cheap china / sears tools).

And last - if you want to prevent rust, DON'T USE WD40!. Get a real oil, or even better, use something like CorrosionX. WD40 is a cleaner, not a lube/rust preventer. It's job is to clean all the water and oil off a part, then evaporate, leaving a clean, unprotected part. Despite the pop-culture fame, using WD40 will actually speed up a part rusting, unless you have a step 2 to protect the part.
 
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I have realized the folly of my ways, by not using proper tools and incorrect rust prevention. I am fully aware the WD40 displaces water, but failed to actually protect the screws from rust. Lessons learnt.
 

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Sorry if I came ouver as harsh, I just get tired of seeing so many people ruin stuff with WD40. Yeah, I did it a lot myself before I lurnt better. Pop Culture makes WD40 out to be a miracle fix-anything spray, but the reality is that 99% of the way most people use it will shorten the life of whatever it is sprayed on.
 

slick2500

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WD stands for water displacement. 40 was how many attempts before the inventor got it right.
Yup water displacement number 40 was originally designed for use by the US military to displace water when servicing military vehicles.

I use wd40 before and after I go out in the snow/rain. Give it a good spray before the run, then after the run knock all the snow off give it a good blow with the blow gun then hit it with some wd40 again let it set for a min or so and wipe it down. Then finally hit it up anything that moves or rotates with some Teflon bike chain lubricant.
 

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