Kraton RCP’s Kraton 8S Build

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Rcproponent

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Arrma RC's
  1. Nero
Current setup @ 8/21/20
Mmx8s
Castle 2028 sensored 800kv motor
Saga 39T pinion gear

*NEW UPDATE COMING SOON*

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BUILD START:

castle MMX8S
Hobby-star 5692 850kv
PPS Motor Mount slide
Futaba receiver
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I gotta admit for this much of an “upgrade” in parts I’m feeling pretty let down lol.

I was expecting heaps more speed and to be honest there isn’t much more if any.

tons more grunt.. but I only went down 400kv?

I geared it with what I thought was a HUGE pinion (34T) and it still doesn’t really move all that fast.

is that how these units are? do I need taller gears? Or do i gotta switch to like a longer can to get some speed out of her?

???
 
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I had the same motor but in 1120kv and a 30t pinion using the stock esc. Nice setup, 50mph on dirt. loved it but my motor locked up...
My Front tires are freaking turning into saucers now with this motor. Maybe I’m needing to up the center fluid to 20m now?? Probably just cooking the thin fluid now? No power to the rear? What fluid do you run?
 
My Front tires are freaking turning into saucers now with this motor. Maybe I’m needing to up the center fluid to 20m now?? Probably just cooking the thin fluid now? No power to the rear? What fluid do you run?
I have silicone ear plugs jammed in there now. I went to 2.5 mill and thought it was still too thin, then just went with the ear plugs. Eventually they need to be replaced as they lose their effectiveness. CVS has them, 7$ or so for lifetime supply...
 
All depends on your temp. Try the 34 and check the temp on motor , esc and batteries. Run the car for 5 min NON STOP full l throttle and than quickly check the temps.

I was running 34T on the hobby start 980kv and the motor was around 210F , batteries were at 165F and esc 145F. So I had to drop it to 30T and it was perfect. It was still crazy fast on 30T around 53mph.

Also, cover the rear bearing with a high temp sticker as you will get tons of dirt in the bearing and will quickly lock up.
 
Also, cover the rear bearing with a high temp sticker as you will get tons of dirt in the bearing and will quickly lock up.
I think it gets in around the wires as well, ive been taking the rear motor cap and putting a little high temp permatex around the plastic wire sleeve.
 
I think it gets in around the wires as well, ive been taking the rear motor cap and putting a little high temp permatex around the plastic wire sleeve.

That's exactly what I do. I also do it in the lipos where the wire comes out .
 
I have silicone ear plugs jammed in there now. I went to 2.5 mill and thought it was still too thin, then just went with the ear plugs. Eventually they need to be replaced as they lose their effectiveness. CVS has them, 7$ or so for lifetime supply...
If that is the case, doesn't the traxxas 20million oil make more sense?
 
The plugs are more aggressive than the 20mill. I have tried both. With the plugs the car fish tails much more than the 20mill. Even arrma replaced the 20mill in the outcast 8s with plugs to achieve the back flip. But lots of people like the plugs also is all up to your driving style.

Question here is where is the arrma 20mill diff fluid that they are using? Where do you buy it from?


Also, what is the continuous amp rating on the castle esc? And can you make adjustments from the esc itself or you have to connect to a PC?
 
All depends on your temp. Try the 34 and check the temp on motor , esc and batteries. Run the car for 5 min NON STOP full l throttle and than quickly check the temps.

I was running 34T on the hobby start 980kv and the motor was around 210F , batteries were at 165F and esc 145F. So I had to drop it to 30T and it was perfect. It was still crazy fast on 30T around 53mph.

Also, cover the rear bearing with a high temp sticker as you will get tons of dirt in the bearing and will quickly lock up.
All depends on your temp. Try the 34 and check the temp on motor , esc and batteries. Run the car for 5 min NON STOP full l throttle and than quickly check the temps.

I was running 34T on the hobby start 980kv and the motor was around 210F , batteries were at 165F and esc 145F. So I had to drop it to 30T and it was perfect. It was still crazy fast on 30T around 53mph.

Also, cover the rear bearing with a high temp sticker as you will get tons of dirt in the bearing and will quickly lock up.

Can you upload a pic of what you mean by the sticker covering the rear bearing? What’s a high temp sticker?

Waiting for my Kraton 8s to arrive ?
 
you are going to need a much larger pinion. The drive line is geared for the 1300 or so kv motor it came with. I modded a 34t spur from a limitless spool so I wouldn't need a 40t plus pinion. That mod comes with its difficulties as well...Much easier to just use a bigger kv motor near 1200 or so. Then longer slides, and giant heavy pinions are not needed. Trouble is theres only a few I know of Leopard and tp...
 
you are going to need a much larger pinion. The drive line is geared for the 1300 or so kv motor it came with. I modded a 34t spur from a limitless spool so I wouldn't need a 40t plus pinion. That mod comes with its difficulties as well...Much easier to just use a bigger kv motor near 1200 or so. Then longer slides, and giant heavy pinions are not needed. Trouble is theres only a few I know of Leopard and tp...
I have been wondering what people do to get a different spur fitted to the k8s.. I noticed the stock one has a keyed opening to it and the limitless spur for example is just round. What exactly was needed to make a different spur fit?
 
I have been wondering what people do to get a different spur fitted to the k8s.. I noticed the stock one has a keyed opening to it and the limitless spur for example is just round. What exactly was needed to make a different spur fit?
I run a 43T with that setup, although I’m going to change it to either a 34T/34T or a 39T/39T both limitless spurs.
 
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