Rear Diff Destruction - Typhon V4 (Pic Attached)

[oddworld]

Question:

I just blasted the rear differential. I've previously blown and purchased a metal diff case for the center diff. Is there anything like that for front/rear? Links appreciated.

RC Car

• Arrma Typhon v4 6S
• ESC: Hobbywing EZRUN Combo MAX6 Series
• Motor: Rocket 4585, 1580kv
• Pinion: 22T
• Tires: Duratrax Lockup C2 && Proline MX28 Badlands (pictured)
• Battery: 2x Turnigy NanoTech Plus 5000mAh 3S 70C (total of 6S)

Picture

 

[SrC]

FYI, the Arrma metal center diff cup/carrier fits Fr and Rr.
You said you have a metal center already????
I use the metal alloy in the center only. (500k oil) I would only use the Arrma metal diff case. Skip the other brands.
If you don't maintain your diffs enough, the plastic will get bricked easy. Even the metal ones. I never had a problem using stock plastic Fr or Rear. Using 60k Fr and 20k Rear. Low diff fluid is primary cause. Out the box they come low filled. Not full. So much is factory error and by you not checking them out the box. Jumping to upgrades doesn't always address the real reason for the failure.
Your diff looked like it was not maintained well. But normal for most. I melted my first center diff. Gears melted right through the plastic. They were low out the factory. Never had that again. My diffs are always full and have thicker fluids to begin with.


Front, center and rear diff cups are the same part. This below is a good option.

METAL DIFF CASE (ARA220050) | ARRMA - Designed Fast, Designed Tough (arrma-rc.com)

 

[Mr.Duke]

If you’re referring to the plastic diff cup then yes all three take the same part. The difference is the ring gear or spur gear in the center. All other parts are the same for the Typhon

 

[oddworld]

@SrC - Yes, I have a metal center diff (100K). I don't think this was completely a diff fluid maintenance issue.

The other week I hit a tree going sideways at 30-40 MPH. It bent the dogbone and broke the wheel hub. I should have realized that it would also impact the rear diff.

I think the impact caused a small hairline crack in the diff, which proceeded to leak over several runs.

What do you think about the following:

• Front: 30k
• Center: 100k
• Rear: 10k

 

[SrC]

Those numbers are conservative.. ok.
I think having front thicker oil over the rear is good. Better than the other way around if not equal. But I always feel 200-500k in the middle is good. Maybe 200k for the Typhon is the best place to start. Having smaller wheels than the Kraton, Noto and Talion.
I pretty much settled on 60k fr/500k Cntr./20-30kRr. for those of my rigs.

Stock thin oil weights seem to cause more wear and damage for bashing purposes.

 

[oddworld]

@SrC - I'm just pulling numbers out of a hat based on forum posts. What weights would you recommend for Typhon V4 6S using Proline MX28 Badlands tires, 1580kv motor, 22T gear and Max 6 ESC?

I'll buy whatever you suggest. Have to order online since there's nothing local open.

 

[SrC]

60k Fr-500k Center-30k Rr.
That thing must be a rocket.

 

[JaySpeed]

Front: 60k
Center: 1 mil.
Rear: 30k

Shes a monster with this setup.

 

[SrC]

^^^ 60kFr/30kRr yes.
1mil center is over the top for a Typhon. Yeah it will be an uncontrollable monster.
500k center. Why shoot that high to 1 mil. at first. Try lower numbers first. Work up gradually.
I mil is approaching locked diff action on a Typhon. Maybe speed running on pavement exclusively, it would have an advantage.

 

[JaySpeed]

It is *almost* uncontrollable off pavement in terms of wheelie control. Just accelerating from half Throttle to 75% brings the front right up at speed!

 

[SrC]

Its a SWB chassis. To be expected.