Typhon rear diff spiral gear grinding on M2C chassi

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Absolutely true dat. same here. There's just no discussion between M2c or Even JBI when comparing to stock. It flexes if you even look at on the shelf.:p The grinding aluminum turns to paste with the grease and wears out ring/pinion.
Won't happen with a Goliath.
Landing under load and jumps causes this. I could see the ring gear eventually wearing a hole thru.
He never ran it. It's a tolerance issue for sure.
 
Email from Mitch,

thanks for your input on that. A little grinding there will not effect the chassis. I will address this issue and check it out.
If you occur any issues, lmk and we will address it.
mitch

M2C RACING

I told him I was worry about grinding it down and he said shouldn't be an issue . Will see what happens when I install the rear.

But great customer service and he returns emails very fast.
 
I wouldn't shim the diff case away from the chassis as that will allow water and dirt to get in there more easily.
 
I wouldn't shim the diff case away from the chassis as that will allow water and dirt to get in there more easily.
Dremeling the recess is correct. Raising the bulkhead/housing seems like an option if a fairly thick gasket is used as a shim and will seal the housing to the chassis. But like Mich states, the chassis just needs a little more finessing with a Dremel at the ring gear recess. A non issue for the end user. Mich is on top of that.(y) Great support.
 
Those are nice but they can be made super easy. I might try it after when I rebuilt the diffs again.
 
I have sheets of gasket material lying around. I would make my own. They are disposable, so I feel its cheaper to cut them out of gasket sheets. I do that for my OS nitro. Cant find OE gaskets for that old OS anymore. Honestly never felt the need to use a gasket, but dirt does enter the housing over time. I noticed the K8 uses an o-ring at the F/R diffs.
 
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