Rebuilding my burned Senton

MeesterC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Okay, so here it goes..... Bought a senton over a month ago, its the V2 version. Local hobby store was sold out of the kraton so I got this. They had one on display that I could actually see and touch. The body was awesome because of the paint scheme and how thick and durable it was. I also have a rustler that I run lipos in so my thinking was, cool, I already have a few lipos. Well, long story short, I ran some 3s with the 25c rating and poof, one let go and burn my car. The body, roll cage, battery tray, center differential cover, battery straps all toast. So, finally got the chassis and stuff fixed thanks to eBay for $15, won't find a deal like that again. Wanted to be different this go around and go with something else besides a truck body. Went with a pro line VW Baja body for the slash 4x4, fits perfect, just had to move the rear body mount back about a quarter of an inch, did this with a 1/4 aluminum rod from home depot. Cut it to length, bent it to shape, drilled holes to mount to shock towers anthing. clips. Now I have my body and its not a truck, yippee...... Now for some wheels to give it that look, put some meat on the ground and lift it up some. I went with the pro line 3.8 badlands on the desperado wheels and man does it look awesome. No modifications at all to mount wheels. Did have to trim my new body for wheel clearance but it was well worth it!

So now for a few tips I've learned along the way:

I have used the 1/4 aluminum rod to make servo mount posts to secure it a little better. I took the original mount out and took the posts off and cut the rod to length. I then drilled all the way thru it so I could use long screw and nuts. You do have to make sure that both ends of all the rods are flush or you will have slop after mounting it and this what we're trying to eliminate. I did use the original top half that the servo mount to.
I lubricate all my moving parts after I wash it from its mad bashing session. I use graphite on all my pivot balls in my control arms. I don't want anything wet in there to hold the dirt in. I use PB blaster on all driveshafts because its a lubricant and prevents rust. WD40 is water based and will do more harm than good IMO. I also use a small amount of automotive wheel bearing grease on the pinion and spur gear, not to much or else it slings off and creates a mess, it also doesn't melt from heat.
I use small zip ties to secure the wiring to the chassis. After a few good jumps or crashes, more crashes than good jumps, I've found my wires dangling around, not a good thing.

This is all I have for now but I'm sure more will come later. I've included some pictures of my disaster and now with it all fixed. Hope some of this will help a few others.
 

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MeesterC

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Location
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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
So did you get new lipos with higher c-rate?
Sure did! Got a two 2s with the 35c rating that are hardcase, starting to swell slightly, and four 2s that have the 50c rating that perform awesome. I don't run the bricks because I use my batteries in different cars, plus I get longer run times when I use two in series.
 

MeesterC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Sorry to
lol i know the feeling my kraton caught fire two weeks ago as well :(
hear that but glad to know I'm not the only one......lol. Hope you get/got it fixed. Stinks having your car down.......lol
 

KrazyKraton14

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Okay, so here it goes..... Bought a senton over a month ago, its the V2 version. Local hobby store was sold out of the kraton so I got this. They had one on display that I could actually see and touch. The body was awesome because of the paint scheme and how thick and durable it was. I also have a rustler that I run lipos in so my thinking was, cool, I already have a few lipos. Well, long story short, I ran some 3s with the 25c rating and poof, one let go and burn my car. The body, roll cage, battery tray, center differential cover, battery straps all toast. So, finally got the chassis and stuff fixed thanks to eBay for $15, won't find a deal like that again. Wanted to be different this go around and go with something else besides a truck body. Went with a pro line VW Baja body for the slash 4x4, fits perfect, just had to move the rear body mount back about a quarter of an inch, did this with a 1/4 aluminum rod from home depot. Cut it to length, bent it to shape, drilled holes to mount to shock towers anthing. clips. Now I have my body and its not a truck, yippee...... Now for some wheels to give it that look, put some meat on the ground and lift it up some. I went with the pro line 3.8 badlands on the desperado wheels and man does it look awesome. No modifications at all to mount wheels. Did have to trim my new body for wheel clearance but it was well worth it!

So now for a few tips I've learned along the way:

I have used the 1/4 aluminum rod to make servo mount posts to secure it a little better. I took the original mount out and took the posts off and cut the rod to length. I then drilled all the way thru it so I could use long screw and nuts. You do have to make sure that both ends of all the rods are flush or you will have slop after mounting it and this what we're trying to eliminate. I did use the original top half that the servo mount to.
I lubricate all my moving parts after I wash it from its mad bashing session. I use graphite on all my pivot balls in my control arms. I don't want anything wet in there to hold the dirt in. I use PB blaster on all driveshafts because its a lubricant and prevents rust. WD40 is water based and will do more harm than good IMO. I also use a small amount of automotive wheel bearing grease on the pinion and spur gear, not to much or else it slings off and creates a mess, it also doesn't melt from heat.
I use small zip ties to secure the wiring to the chassis. After a few good jumps or crashes, more crashes than good jumps, I've found my wires dangling around, not a good thing.

This is all I have for now but I'm sure more will come later. I've included some pictures of my disaster and now with it all fixed. Hope some of this will help a few others.


well playing with my kraton last night and 30 mins into it.
my little mans stampede started smoking.
 

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Jerry-rigged

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Moar pics of the Baja bug! :)

I am thinking of doing exactly this with my Typhon. (bug body / 3.8 badlands) I was thinking of using axle spacers, though, to widen it up a bit.
 

MeesterC

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  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Moar pics of the Baja bug! :)

I am thinking of doing exactly this with my Typhon. (bug body / 3.8 badlands) I was thinking of using axle spacers, though, to widen it up a bit.
Sorry so late but here you go.
 

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MeesterC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Widened with kraton arms and shafts but didn' like it much, acted like the outcast. Couldn't drive it in some places because it was so wide. Put it back to stock.
 

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MeesterC

Well-Known Member
Messages
376
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Location
Georgia
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Did you try it with the Senton arms, but Kraton axles/hex/carriers? Maybe that will give a good "split the difference"
Yep, sure did. Put the kraton arms and shafts in but used the senton hubs(front and rear). Was a little to wide for my liking and turned it into the wheelie/backflip king. Wheelies and backflips on demand with no problems.......lol. Have thought about maybe the typhon arms and shafts but is a little costly to find out. Luckily after I bought the kraton stuff to convert it I actually bought a kraton so now I have stock in case of a mishap..........lol
 

Jerry-rigged

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If you compare the Kraton hubs and hexes and the Senton hubs and hexes - the Kraton ones are about 1/2" wider on each side. This is what I was asking about. Kraton hubs, hexes (and you need the axle stubs) with the narrow Senton arms - would make the truck about an inch wider overall, and help the tires clear the body, without being huge wide.
 

MeesterC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
If you compare the Kraton hubs and hexes and the Senton hubs and hexes - the Kraton ones are about 1/2" wider on each side. This is what I was asking about. Kraton hubs, hexes (and you need the axle stubs) with the narrow Senton arms - would make the truck about an inch wider overall, and help the tires clear the body, without being huge wide.
Oh okay, my bad, sorry, misread......lol. I'll have to try that seeing how I do have extras already on those. If this works I'll owe you one. Hope to maybe have time to try this in the next week or so.
 
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