Granite Rebuilt diff issues

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vader

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
Hi all ,

I have re built my diff after having to replace the input gear and the diff case , now when I put it together as soon as I tighten the yoke there is some locking as t turn the input gear , the diff internals are running smoothly , the locking only happens once I have place on the yoke on the cup side of the diff I have triple checked the teeth and they are all perfect ,

any advice welcome as still new to the hobby and is my first attempt at the diff re build
 
Hi all ,

I have re built my diff after having to replace the input gear and the diff case , now when I put it together as soon as I tighten the yoke there is some locking as t turn the input gear , the diff internals are running smoothly , the locking only happens once I have place on the yoke on the cup side of the diff I have triple checked the teeth and they are all perfect ,

any advice welcome as still new to the hobby and is my first attempt at the diff re build
I think @Surchaufeur had this same problem maybe he can chime in with how he fixed it.
 
Does it lock completely or just feel notchy, also does it run smoothly if you loosen the screws.
 
Just feels notchy, no difference when I tighten the screws , ind I made sure I didn’t over tighten the diff case as I had read on here that that could cause and issue but I checked there is no rubbing on the diff case
 
Mine did the same when I changed input gear and diff gear I must of took it apart 10 times tried shims in both sides in the end just ran it as it was ,its now smoothed out, I think it's just new gears wearing in. But maybe someone else will have other ideas I'm no expert
 
Cheers , I have just pulled out the front diff to compare but the screws all feel the same tightness so I’m a bit gazumped.
 
The two screw holding the yoke together can easily be over tightened. I just tighten down until any resistance just so the yoke stays together, if not it will bind. You might try placing the shim on the opposite side. Also some of it is just letting the gears settle in. Good luck
 
Hi all ,

I have re built my diff after having to replace the input gear and the diff case , now when I put it together as soon as I tighten the yoke there is some locking as t turn the input gear , the diff internals are running smoothly , the locking only happens once I have place on the yoke on the cup side of the diff I have triple checked the teeth and they are all perfect ,

any advice welcome as still new to the hobby and is my first attempt at the diff re build

I had the same issue when I first did mine...like @jondilly1974 and few others said I had to stop over-tightening the two screws that hold the case together. I did both sides evenly and stopped just at the point when it because catchy/locked... Add some Red/Tacky on the gear at the end before you close the outer housing that will be some good grease to help with the gear friction as well.
 
Hi all ,

just wanted to thank you all for your input , I went ahead and ran a pack through the new diff and it’s settled down perfectly , being so new to the hobby was worried that I had missed something, but the car is running better than ever.

thanks again
 
Hi all ,

I have re built my diff after having to replace the input gear and the diff case , now when I put it together as soon as I tighten the yoke there is some locking as t turn the input gear , the diff internals are running smoothly , the locking only happens once I have place on the yoke on the cup side of the diff I have triple checked the teeth and they are all perfect ,

any advice welcome as still new to the hobby and is my first attempt at the diff re build
New plastic gears is going to be a tight fit. If you didnt notice the sun gear teeth's are oversized vs the crown gear. Its like that to break in and make the perfect mesh. Heres are a few pictures i played with diffs a lot and thats what i learned
Used vs new
EFAED1A8-7B54-40DF-B6A9-E938A67451F6.jpeg
F08D4518-AC27-4B4A-81DB-E2B7C38EF3A5.jpeg
E31011D6-F20A-4817-B60D-1E80CC8AAB22.jpeg

If you try to make the diff spin smoothly and put the shim on the other side of the diff you risk to have a poor mesh in the future once the sun gear wears down. You want to have to have the sun gear teeths as close as possible to the crown gear. If you have a poor mesh its going to not last as long as it should. You can also use alluminum diff yokes and will eliminated any kind of flexing between both gear during use and making the rear diff Even stronger. The front doesn't need anything it will last for ever.
Tight clutches are ussualy the opthing to blame for a stripped rear diff unless you do things that you shouldnt Like landing under power ect
 
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I'll turn every screw a couple turns then check diff for smooth operation.repeat till finished. Works for me.the 2 offset screws in clamp thing that holds diff can cause this also,or putting a longer screw in wrong hole also.
 
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