Mojave Recommendations Requested for Motor Fan on Mojave

[loryriga]

rocket fans and all rocket-like fans are great. Do not put thermal tape between the motor and the heatsink, it's a thermal insulator! What you want is thermal paste, but this is not a suitable application for it.
Since it's the stock heat sink it shouldn't leave any air gap between itself and the motor. If there is an air gap, I'd consider removing the "heatsink" (at this point it's more like a heat retainer) and let the fans blow directly on the motor can

 

[decline225]

I usually Velcro it under the straps with the main battery. I put a piece of Velcro on the batteries too to help hold it there

Awesome thank you, if I run the fans to a separate lipo I wanted to get an idea of how others are doing it.

 

[garymathisjr83@gmail]

Has anyone heard of these? If so has anyone ran them on a Mojave with the stock motor and heat sink. Thank you

 

[SrC]

Don't use any Heatsink at all.
Remove it altogether for best cooling.
Use a double fan mount with (2) 40x40 mm Rocket Alloy fans.
A HS does nothing for you.
Air blowing directly at the motor is what you want. The motor alone is already a HS by its design.
My temp gun does not lie. Showing Lower Temps and faster cooldowns.
Also Good to have a temp gun. An RC tool necessity.

 

[garymathisjr83@gmail]

Thank you for the reply . I will definitely do that I have a decent heat gun . I have been running around the 160 mark on my motor which is to hot I think so trying to be able to run longer with no damage lol. Once again thanks

 

[SrC]

160F is borderline for sure.
If you can keep it there or lower, and No higher, you might be ok. IDK.
Depends how hot the weather is along with your chosen Pinion Gear.
Sometimes you just need to allow for a minute or so cool downs.
Don't overlook Motor Cleaning and regular maintenance. Cleaning the BB's and a drop of syn. Oil matters. Poorly maintained motors/BB's will run hotter. BB's explode, risking armature damage. Hence a bricked motor. Replace the BB's before they could explode. Checking them for slop during maintenance. I run Ceramic BB replacements in all my motors FWIW. Worth the few coins more. I feel they run cooler, last longer. Yet still need maintenance/cleaning. Like any BB.
BLX motors can last for years and years this way. I have yet to have a Cermamic Motor BB explode on me. When I service my center diff is when I also go over my motor. 15-20 runs at most. Your mileage will vary.

 

[garymathisjr83@gmail]

Awesome knowledge thank you . I just recently got into the hobby. Of course got a Traxxas first. The slash 2wd vxl it's fast and fun but needed something bigger and better and I believe the Mojave will do just fine for me . I don't get to crazy but I do jump it and race cars down my street lol.. but so far I love it and look forward to growing with it and the arrma community. Thank you
Oh yeah it's all stock right now haven't even put the high speed gear on yet . I live in Michigan and the weather is hot now so I do let it rest once it it's that point
I will definitely get the ceramic bearings as well very soon . I am about to get the fan for the motor as well it will help

 

[Marski69]

160F is borderline for sure.
If you can keep it there or lower, and No higher, you might be ok. IDK.
Depends how hot the weather is along with your chosen Pinion Gear.
Sometimes you just need to allow for a minute or so cool downs.
Don't overlook Motor Cleaning and regular maintenance. Cleaning the BB's and a drop of syn. Oil matters. Poorly maintained motors/BB's will run hotter. BB's explode, risking armature damage. Hence a bricked motor. Replace the BB's before they could explode. Checking them for slop during maintenance. I run Ceramic BB replacements in all my motors FWIW. Worth the few coins more. I feel they run cooler, last longer. Yet still need maintenance/cleaning. Like any BB.
BLX motors can last for years and years this way. I have yet to have a Cermamic Motor BB explode on me. When I service my center diff is when I also go over my motor. 15-20 runs at most. Your mileage will vary.

Ceramic Motor BB?
I assume you mean ceramic bearings for the spectrum BLX motor?
Can you also refer to a ceramic bearing for the BLX series? which one do you use yourself?
I keep up with my Mojave's very well in terms of maintenance, but so far the only one thats is not serviced yet is the engine.
So I'm curious about your brushless motor service interval
Can you tell me more about that in detail apart from a drop of lubricant in the bearing?
Although ceramic bearings hardly need to be lubricated, some lubricant (Ceramicspeed for example) is not entirely undesirable.
As soon as you unleash violent conditions on the bearing, it can extend its lifespan.

 

[SrC]

Jims Bearings shows the applications for most BLX motors and the proper Ceramic Motor BB sizes. You can buy them from TRBRC and Avid as well. Need to buy Motor Specific Ball bearings!! Nothing wrong with plain Chromium Motor BB's as well. I just have way better luck with Ceramics for a few coins more. I only use Cerams in my motors. To me, Cerams are not worth it elsewhere on the chassis for bashing purposes. A complete set can be $80.00+. Where plain chromium rubber sealed sets of BB's are only about $20.-$30.
Open the motor to flush it out with any Electrical contact spray ( CRC automotive type is fine) BB's and all. Let evaporate well. Then a drop of any synthetic oil on the 2 BB's. Reassemble. Make sure to observe the shims' placement on the Armature precisely when taking the motor apart! That's all. Look to videos in regards before doing it for the first time.
When installing Brand new BB's, I always still add a drop of oil to each one. Sometimes the BB's are Dry when New. I use Superlube or Liberty Oil. Don't use a Car Engine oil. It has engine additives that are not good for RC BB's. Ceramic specific OIls are not really needed for these Hybrid ceramic BB's. Because the Races are still Chromium or SS. 100% full Ceramics are not justified for RC use. Cost prohibitive.
The one important upgrade for the Mojave if anything, when New, is replacing the stock Plastic Front and Rear Chassis braces with Alloy ones. HR , Arrma EXB or M2C is fine. Your call based on your wallet. If you don't do anything else aside from a proper fan setup, alloy F/R braces are important.. Especially if you like to send it or crash into obstacles.

 

[Marski69]

Thank you Steve.
That's clear enough for me
I'm definitely going to do this service next month. >Hybrid Ceramic bearing upgrade.

My best adaptation has to be the metal Diff housings.
With a shim on the outside (so there is no play) this is perfect and so far no gears and other drivetrain parts are broken.
We usually ride on the beach which is a real attack on the Mojave's.
Just out of the store I could go home after 15 minutes on the beach.
Since the adjustments it is wonderfully trouble-free driving on the beach.
We had to work to get the car clean again after a beach ride, but it was worth it
Before I go I spray them with teflon spray.
When I come back I clean them with a air compressor and it is like new again.

Pics from the alu housing and shim.
This solved my problem of the Main Input Gear damaging the diff case due to the flex of the plastic.
This happens especially with a nose or tail dive.
Apparently the plastic flexes to accommodate this (sounds good) but in the end that flex is an attack on your drivetrain.
I have 2 Mojave's and both cars had this problem. Structural problem....

 

[SrC]

You understand this well.
The long XLWB chassis of the Fireteam and Mojave do flex. With bashing, Alloy braces make the chassis more rigid for hard use. For Track use Plastic F and R braces serve better, where the chassis flex is warranted for better traction. Just Not for Basher platforms.
I went the extra mile and used 2 OE T2T braces. JennysRc.com has the complete OE T2T's for only like $3.00-4.00. I placed Carbon Fiber tubing, sleeved over both of them. 10mm I.D. CF Tubing cut to length. With my FT.
I prefer M2C Input cups instead of the Stocker Safe-D ones. I tossed the 2 stocker ones out the box. The Stocker ones are not straight and wobble. This also ruins the Input gears and BB's of the diff bulkhead.

 

[Marski69]

Wauw!
Thx for all the advice!

 

[Marski69]

Ceramic bearings in the Spektrum BLX were a disaster.
After a few runs, 1 of the ceramic bearings exploded and it was game over.
I can probably repair the motor with other bearings,
but replacing them again with ceramic ones is not an option