Kraton Recommended Arrma Kraton & Talion Upgrades 2020

slick2500

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According to Arrma the V5 has a 4074. I have the YR heatsink on the 4074 of the V4, which has fins (so basically 4274) and it is a even better fit on the 4082, since that hasn’t the cooling fins.
So unless it isn’t a 4074/4274 it should fit.
Idk I thought I saw someone post in another thread that it was a loose fit like it didn't get tight enough to not move around. I cannot remember what thread it was for the life of me though.
 
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Sandracer_NL

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slick2500

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Hmmmm. Strange that on the 40mm Spektrum motor someone is having difficulty while on the 40mm non-Spektrum motors a lot are using it 🤔. And I’ve seen Spektrum motors with the YR heatsink on this forum😉
That's above my paygrade.
🤷‍♂️
 

Pageracing

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OK, I'll bite.

The STX2 was junk and it was a mistake from them to ship cars with it, but Arrma as a whole is not junk. Arrma cars do have their flaws and some assembly mistakes from the factory are indeed infuriating some times. I guess you just need to be prepared to work on it and fix things. That's part of the hobby and some will argue it's the best part (I do).

People who are not happy with Arrma quality that can always purchase a Tekno or TLR kit. It will be top quality and super nice if you assemble it correctly, but price-wise, it would still probably be more expensive than an upgraded/fixed Arrma.

People who want a real RTR that doesn't need too much wrenching out of the box could look into a Traxxas Hoss, but everybody is complaining about its high price and still...it's not perfect.

One thing Arrma does right is the overall design and how easy it is to wrench on them. I was recently looking at the new Losi SBR 2.0. There is no way I would enjoy working on such a truck. So many screws, weird battery compartment, etc.

TL/DR: I think Arrma are not perfect, but they are very nice for the price.
Instead of a Traxxas hoss I’d suggest the maxx 4s from Traxxas. I have a talion and two maxxes and the maxx is by far the toughest Traxxas brand vehicle I’ve owned to date. And I’ve owned them all lol.

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Jzepp

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Instead of a Traxxas hoss I’d suggest the maxx 4s from Traxxas. I have a talion and two maxxes and the maxx is by far the toughest Traxxas brand vehicle I’ve owned to date. And I’ve owned them all lol.

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Comparing 1/10 scale vehicles would you say the Arrma Granite or Maxx is the tougher of those 2?

I have had the v2 Granite but i sold it to buy a Kraton 6s v5, but i think i want to get another 1/10 scale again for my collection.
 

Pageracing

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Comparing 1/10 scale vehicles would you say the Arrma Granite or Maxx is the tougher of those 2?

I have had the v2 Granite but i sold it to buy a Kraton 6s v5, but i think i want to get another 1/10 scale again for my collection.
For the price point the new v3 line of Arrma 1/10s are hard to beat. My big rock v3 was a really good rig. The extra length and track width over the granite make it handle killer. Now on the other hand the maxx has to be one of my favorite all time rigs. Thing is a tank and flies on factory electronics and a 4s. Only thing I suggest is do the widemaxx kit ASAP. The factory narrow track width will make it flip if the wind blows lol. Second part you should get are the Traxxas steel cvds for the widemaxx kit. With those parts I’ve beat the snot out of both mine and not a single broken part. And I’ll do 50 backflips in one pack all the time.
But once again it depends on your budget. 320vs560. Widemaxx kit in any color is only $50. So your looking at about double the Arrma price. But with a maxx you have there self righting, clipless body mounting, link Bluetooth module that’s only $30 and tons more etc.
 

Lassiv

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Now drived 4pcs Kraton 6s with friends. Very durable car every angle, but little problems with rear/front diffs and big jumps. All cars used stock motor/ESC and 3300-4500mAh 6s batterys.

Normally diff inside gears are broken and many pieces inside diff case. What you think, can that problem go away if shim diffs right way or do we need some upgrade parts? EXB diff not fit normal Kratons directly i think and off course better if can use normal diffs. Some places i see aluminium diff cases, any opinions do they helps diff more durable (less flex maybe and gears shimms keep better)?
 

slick2500

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Now drived 4pcs Kraton 6s with friends. Very durable car every angle, but little problems with rear/front diffs and big jumps. All cars used stock motor/ESC and 3300-4500mAh 6s batterys.

Normally diff inside gears are broken and many pieces inside diff case. What you think, can that problem go away if shim diffs right way or do we need some upgrade parts? EXB diff not fit normal Kratons directly i think and off course better if can use normal diffs. Some places i see aluminium diff cases, any opinions do they helps diff more durable (less flex maybe and gears shimms keep better)?
Stop landing on power.
 

Lassiv

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Off course.. But sometimes power is on when going down and because many other seems get same problems i assume there diff's have little problems on durability. Thats times when diffs broken our cars landing was normal "no power" landing.
 

slick2500

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Off course.. But sometimes power is on when going down and because many other seems get same problems i assume there diff's have little problems on durability. Thats times when diffs broken our cars landing was normal "no power" landing.

The only time I have broken the internal gears was when my motor locked up mid blackflip, that took out both the front and rear diff, the motor pinion and the spur gear. Every now and then I'll break a pin and once I broke the cup itself. 8 times out of 10 if the internal gears break it is user error.

There was a thread around here someplace where someone found some Mugen or Kyosho gears that fit in the stock diff cases but I cannot find it at the moment.
 

slick2500

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TalionBash

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Hello.What you guys think about this Talion?In Finland where i live peoples said fiddlestick off, you had someone to do this and sponsors.No, i made it by my own.So am i wrong if i said im done somenthing right to get peoples jelous.In here peoples are so..

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Yankeedoodle30

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The Arrma Kraton is a fine R/C out of the box and very capable to hold up to even the hardest of bashing sessions. There are a few things that can be done to further improve the Kraton - making it stronger, faster, and more durable.

If you're just getting an Arrma Kraton there are a few things you'll need to get started.

Required items for a new Arrma Kraton



Batteries - You could run NiMH packs in the Kraton but you'll be doing yourself a dis-service as to really get the power, speed, and run time that the Kraton can really deliver you're going to need to run LiPo batteries. You can use the following LiPo setup:
  • 2x2S LiPo packs
  • 2x3S LiPo packs
  • 1x4S LiPo pack
  • 1x6S LiPo pack
There is a great "Budget LiPo of choice" ongoing thread if you are unsure what battery packs to buy.

Battery Charger - One of the best bang for your buck chargers would be the Dynamite Prophet Sport Duo. It will charge both NiMH and LiPo batteries and can charge two batteries at one time which is really a must have feature for the Kraton as many will be running dual batteries.

LiPo Sack - Just buy one! A LiPO sack is super cheap and offers a great deal of protection to charge and store your LiPo batteries.

4x AA Batteries - These are for the transmitter and I'm a big fan of Eneloop rechargeable batteries. Either the Panasonic Eneloop or Eneloop Pro (higher capacity, longer run time).

If you're new to the hobby, I would also strongly suggest checking out the Tools for getting started in RC thread.

Now on to the upgrades to make your Arrma Kraton even better! :)

Most Recommended Upgrades for the Arrma Kraton v4



Radio Gear - Replace it. Period. The new Arrma's are shipping with the Spektrum STX2 and a simple search here on ArrmaForum alone will return tons of results of members having issues with it. From extremely poor range, slow response times and even out right dying prematurely. We all hope Horizon Hobby does the right thing and replace the STX2 with a much more reliable radio.

Until then, it is HIGHLY recommended that you NOT use the STX2 radio and instead buy a replacement. The Futaba 3PV, Tactic TX300 (which is what used to come included in the Arrma's) or even a Flysky FS-GT5 radio system.

I personally use and recommend Futaba so that would be my first choice, though the forum is filled with members that use Tactic and Flysky with great results.

Seriously, if you are going to buy anything for your new Arrma 6s - buy a new radio system.

Servo - You can go one of two ways to improve the servo issues on the Kraton, the best option would be to do both.
  1. Upgrade the servo to something like the PowerHD DW25LV, Savox SW-1210SG (powerful, steel gears, and waterproof), Savox SW-0231MG (a bit weaker than the SW-1210SG) or Hitec HS-7955TG. It is recommended you get either a Glitch Buster or External BEC when running these servo's.
  2. Upgrade the servo mount, the stock plastic mount flexes a lot causing more strain on the servo. The DIY Kraton servo mount upgrade or the one piece aluminum servo mount will remove the flex issues.

Bearings - This isn't a surprise really as there aren't many RC's that are shipped with high quality bearings, or in some cases no bearings at all. In the case of the Arrma Kraton it's both, the bearings that are used aren't very good and there are even bushings used in areas (steering). A bearing set from Fast Eddy Bearings will be a massive upgrade over stock and what I would recommend!

Bumpers - If you're really bashing your Kraton then you'll probably want a good durable bumper. T-Bone Racing make a very durable front and rear bumper for the Kraton. TBR bumpers are also guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.

Chassis Braces - A lot of people buy the Kraton because they want to bash it, jump it, and just go crazy. "Don't just bash. Blast." With that in mind another suggested upgrade would be to replace the stock plastic chassis braces with aluminum chassis braces.

There are several places that make them, two of which to check out would be GKA Custom RC Parts and Voltage Hobbies.



Addiontal Upgrades for older Arrma Kraton models



Wing Mount - Without a doubt the most likely item to break first out of the box on the older Kraton models was the wing mount. If you don't like the wing then go ahead and remove it, but if you want the wing then buy the RPM Wing Mount. RPM products are guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.

Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) - I'm going to say it, the stock BLX 180 ESC is questionable at best or just out right bad at worse. There are plenty of threads here on the forum documenting the numerous issues with this ESC. To Arrma's credit they have been on the ball replacing any bad ESC's within the warranty period.

That said if you don't want to mess with replacing the ESC each time it burns up, has other issues, or chance damaging your other electronics (battery, servo) then adding a new ESC would be best. Tekin, Castle Creations, and even Hobbywing make great alternatives and buying one of their combo's (ESC and motor) could give the Kraton even more speed and/or power!

Note: The BLX 185 could potentially fix the issues with the BLX 180 ESC, but the 185 has yet to be released or tested.

If you have other suggested upgrades, please share below! Let us know how your Arrma Kraton is holding up.
I have an ARRMA Mojave 6S Version 2. Would some of these upgrades also apply to the the Mojave 6S V 2? Thanks.
 

guzziboy532

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i will sum up the last 19 pages for you.

Replace everything with stronger and more expensive stuff until you have almost bought another whole car and you can send it.

The end.
 
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