Kraton Recommended Arrma Kraton & Talion Upgrades 2021

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right, it will work, it will just take a bit longer. Those 5400mah 3s packs need about 60w to charge at 1c. In theory, 1c charge rate will charge the batteries in one hour. In reality, 1c will take a bit longer, because the charger will ramp down the charge rate near the end of the cycle.

Also, keep an eye on the charger temps when you are charging both batteries at the charger's max. My PSD is 6a/50w per channel, and if I charged two 2s packs at 5.6a (1c for my packs) the charger would overheat. I had to back off the charge rate to 5a. That kept it from thermalling, but the charger still failed... :(
 
Thank you for the answer! Unfortunately I've already ordered everything so I ended up with this charger which only is 50w per Chanel: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-power-pal-touch-duo-100w/rc-car-products/395510

To that I ordered 2 x Onyx Lipos 5400mAh 50C 3S, Tekno Orange 90mm Shock springs, 60wt Shock oil, LiPo bag and pre mounted Proline Badlands 3.8".

Can't wait to lay my hands on this package :)
A little bit disappointed over my choice of charger though, but I should work, just a little longer charging time, right?
I have the onyx batteries and they are puffing already and ive had to have a balance lead resoldered, i got nero out today and the good one would bot charge, another broken balance wire on that one too... both have been the yellow wire so be careful. I just got some low vcoltage alarms to have on truck. I have a set of 7200mah 70c spc racing hard packs that i love. The guy at spc said to get low voltage alarms and set to 3.5v or higher to reduce chance of damaging packs... i will post pics of mine in a bit. I got two but one was broken when i opened it. I like the spc packs alot better than the onyx packs... i have a extra onyx pack and was thinking about buying one more but not now... very disappointed in them and the breaking...

How about the shock springs on V2? Are they as short as they were on the first model?
Yes... i found tekno 90mm and put on all 4 corners, wish I could have found 100mm or 110mm for rear but these work better than stock and front has tons of preload adjustment the rear i have turned all the way down. I went with tekno orange also on all 4... i launch it and have had better luck. Still bottom out but that is to be expected the way i jump.... at least im not breaking rod ends every 5 minutes like on my nero... lol
 
the esc on the v2 is fine . servo works great on mine too. never hurts to put some real bearings in ,but so far nothing but good reports on my v2 kraton . right out the box and to the field i went . might want to grab a hobbywing program card for the esc .
I have the v1 running stock electronics except the servo. Trencher x what is the best pinion to run ? Mailing on dirt grass etc ..
 
I run the 14t in my Kraton. In short, cut grass it runs great. in deeper grass, the motor starts to get hot. If you are running 1005 in the grass, maybe run the 12t or a 13t, and watch the temps, keep it under 160f. Get a temp gun - hot but still safe will be too hot to touch. I use this $12 infrared thermometer from HF - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/thermometers/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html

I have mounted an motor fan and it does the trick,no worries about high temps anymore. I run 14p on 6s.
http://www.minicars.se/sv/artiklar/cc-blower-15-series-med-flakt.html
 
With a new motor, esc and servos do they have to be reprogrammed or is it just plug and play?

Thanks
Troy
 
RPM wing mount was for the V1. The V2 wing mount is good. RPM plastic is a bit more flexy than the Arrma plastic.

Bearings - I would run them till they go out. After the first 2-4 batteries, pull all the wheel bearings (2 at each wheel) and give them a good cleaning and re-lube. I don't like using grease in these small bearings, I prefer a lighter weight "wet' lube make for fishing reels. You will need to re-clean them every dozen packs or so, or after a wet running session.

Stock servo is a bit weak for the big Kraton tires, but should work OK for a while. you might start budgeting for a new servo, though. I run a Savox 2271SG ($99) in mine. A budget choice would be the Turnigy Trackstar TS-910 ($35).

What batteries are you looking at? Make sure you get at least 5000mah 45C 4s packs. SMC Racing has good packs at a decent price. You will need to swap connectors to XT90's though.

Charger - look for a charger that has at least 100W per charging channel. There is one on Amazon that I am looking at - 120W per channel, 2 channels, $111. Charges 2 4s packs at the same time, in under an hour.
Man I should have not bought my Reedy 1216c2 because this looks like the same thing just rebranded.
 
Just want to order some shims along with my new Kraton. I’m not sure if it necessary because some people are reporting it already should be done by the factory on the kraton v.2. As long as I can see,TP youtube video only shows how to do with the internal, but what about the externals, are there any video for how to do this? Actually, I am not sure the right place for them. At least so I can check if it’s done one the new kraton.

How many shims is needed both for the internal/external?

I can see there are 10 pcs in a set.

Thanks in advance.
 
Just want to order some shims along with my new Kraton. I’m not sure if it necessary because some people are reporting it already should be done by the factory on the kraton v.2. As long as I can see,TP youtube video only shows how to do with the internal, but what about the externals, are there any video for how to do this? Actually, I am not sure the right place for them. At least so I can check if it’s done one the new kraton.

How many shims is needed both for the internal/external?

I can see there are 10 pcs in a set.

Thanks in advance.

I always shim all my RTR diffs. Theirs some videos of a guy shimming a savage xl diff on YouTube. It's hard to explain, easier to watch. Running 4s should be ok.
 
Going to order some pins for my diff rebuild from McMaster, just want to double check the correct pin size is 2.20mm as I can order 2.1843 harden rod from McMaster.
 
Going to order some pins for my diff rebuild from McMaster, just want to double check the correct pin size is 2.20mm as I can order 2.1843 harden rod from McMaster.
I shimmed all my diffs but left the stock pins,there needs to be a weak link somewhere .
On a side note,after shimming one set ,it had a clicking going on,cleaned all parts with solvent and looked at the gears.One of the little gears had a milling chip in it, pryed it out,checked all gears for damage and reassembled.Without shimming the gears rode over the chip.
 
I shimmed all my diffs but left the stock pins,there needs to be a weak link somewhere .
On a side note,after shimming one set ,it had a clicking going on,cleaned all parts with solvent and looked at the gears.One of the little gears had a milling chip in it, pryed it out,checked all gears for damage and reassembled.Without shimming the gears rode over the chip.

Hmmm, mine also. Clicking was driving me crazy. I just parked it, till my drill bits come in.

What diff had the chip?

I ordered these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391022470942 ,, should be in any day.
 
Hi, I am planning to buy and install aluminium chassis braces and servo mount from GKA. Beside that, I also want to upgrade the bearrings (fasteddybearring) for my Kraton V2. Since I am taking my Kraton apart, what other upgrades are really necessary? I am also changing the diff oil. I did about 15 rides, mostly onroad and a few of them off road (no jumps, only off road surface).
 
@Rednas_N you're going to see a big difference in those hop-ups and really the Kraton is pretty dang solid so I would say those are the only hop-ups you'll need at the moment. If you really wanted to add something else I'd look at getting a T-Bone Racing bumper as well for added protection.
 
Thanks for all the replies, I live in the Netherlands. So I think I will stay with the Fast Eddies bearrings (I read some good things about them). By the way, one more question. Is there any difference in oils? I am planning to buy them from Hobbyking, because they are pretty cheap and in my opinion silicone oil = silicone oil.
 
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