Kraton Recommended Arrma Kraton & Talion Upgrades 2021

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I like the rpm wing mount, i aldo ordered the aluminum wing braces and buttons. My servo works great i did strip gears once but for 15 bux got replacements. I have a tbone front bumper and its ok.... the esc works great i have had zero issues i run 2 7200mah 70c spc batteries.i put pro line badlandson it i.blew.a.front tire off.doing donuts in my driveway. I geared it up beacuse of the smaller tires bad lands are a bit shorter. I.went with a 16 tooth pinion and on blacktop im getting 61 mph. I am.going to drop down to a 15 It gets up to about 165 or so and thats borderline to hot for my liking. I also have shimmed pinion gear in front and will do rear as well ive had to replace both now so hopefully this solves that problem.... i do not baby it i jump it and punish it daily im super impressed with my kraton v2. I abuse my kraton run 6s almkst all the time. As far as steering servo goes i use stock still, however when i.do change it i will uze same one.i put.in my nero a 444oz/in savox iy was 80 bux at lhs. Ebay they are cheaper.


What does it mean to shim a pinion gear? that's the gear on the engine rite?
 
The Arrma Kraton is a fine R/C out of the box and very capable to hold up to even the hardest of bashing sessions. There are a few things that can be done to further improve the Kraton making it stronger, faster, and more durable.

If you're just getting a Kraton there are a few things you'll need to get started.

Required items for a new Arrma Kraton



Batteries - You could run NiMH packs in the Kraton but you'll be doing yourself a dis-service as to really get the power, speed, and run time that the Kraton can really deliver you're going to need to run LiPo batteries. You can use the following LiPo setup:
  • 2x2S LiPo packs
  • 2x3S LiPo packs
  • 1x4S LiPo pack
  • 1x6S LiPo pack
There is a great "Budget LiPo of choice" ongoing thread if you are unsure what battery packs to buy.

Battery Charger - One of the best bang for your buck chargers would be the Dynamite Prophet Sport Duo. It will charge both NiMH and LiPo batteries and can charge two batteries at one time which is really a must have feature for the Kraton as many will be running dual batteries.

LiPo Sack - Just buy one! A LiPO sack is super cheap and offers a great deal of protection to charge and store your LiPo batteries.

4x AA Batteries - These are for the transmitter and I'm a big fan of Eneloop rechargeable batteries. Either the Panasonic Eneloop or Eneloop Pro (higher capacity, longer run time).

If you're new to the hobby, I would also strongly suggest checking out the Tools for getting started in RC thread.

Now on to the upgrades to make your Arrma Kraton even better! :)

Most Recommended Upgrades for the Arrma Kraton



Wing Mount - Without a doubt the most likely item to break first out of the box is the wing mount. If you don't like the wing then go ahead and remove it, but if you want the wing then buy the RPM Wing Mount. RPM products are guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.

Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) - I'm going to say it, the stock BLX 180 ESC is questionable at best or just out right bad at worse. There are plenty of threads here on the forum documenting the numerous issues with this ESC. To Arrma's credit they have been on the ball replacing any bad ESC's within the warranty period.

That said if you don't want to mess with replacing the ESC each time it burns up, has other issues, or chance damaging your other electronics (battery, servo) then adding a new ESC would be best. Tekin, Castle Creations, and even Hobbywing make great alternatives and buying one of their combo's (ESC and motor) could give the Kraton even more speed and/or power!

Note: The BLX 185 could potentially fix the issues with the BLX 180 ESC, but the 185 has yet to be released or tested.

Servo
- You can go one of two ways to improve the servo issues on the Kraton, the best option would be to do both.
  1. Upgrade the servo to something like the Savox SW-1210SG (powerful, steel gears, and waterproof), Savox SW-0231MG (a bit weaker than the SW-1210SG) or Hitec HS-7955TG. It is recommended you get either a Glitch Buster or External BEC when running these servo's.
  2. Upgrade the servo mount, the stock plastic mount flexes a lot causing more strain on the servo. The DIY Kraton servo mount upgrade or the one piece aluminum servo mount will remove the flex issues.

Bearings - This isn't a surprise really as there aren't many RC's that are shipped with high quality bearings, or in some cases no bearings at all. In the case of the Arrma Kraton it's both, the bearings that are used aren't very good and there are even bushings used in areas (steering). A bearing set from Fast Eddy Bearings will be a massive upgrade over stock and what I would recommend!

Bumpers - If you're really bashing your Kraton then you'll probably want a good durable bumper. T-Bone Racing make a very durable front and rear bumper for the Kraton. TBR bumpers are also guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.


If you have other suggested upgrades, please share below! Let us know how your Arrma Kraton is holding up.



Kraton Center Diff: Is there a way to lock that and would you recomend doing that? How would that change the way the Kraton behaves?

Now that Kraton V2 is out with the 185 ESC, did they upgrade the bearings? Also you mentioned servo and wingmount. Were those upgraded?

What does it mean to shim a pinion gear? that's the gear on the engine rite?


Pinion Gear. Does More teeth= More speed (while keeping the spur constant). ALSO, what is the pitch of the Kraton V2 pinion gear need to be?
 
hi .
I purchased arrma kraton and since I got it im having trouble with the steering servo as after I used it for 2 times and normal use only not hard play or jumps at all the steering got jammed and then I heard a crushing gears inside the steering servo , I purchased an original steering servo and it got burnt inside it after 10 min of installation then I purchased an after market super heavy duty one it got burnt as well after 10 minutes , I purchased another heavy duty steering servo again and same thing happened please advice do you have an idea why that's happening as I've never faced any issue like this in any of my previous RC cars please advice me what to do or it could be a manufacturer fault or something and ?
thanks
 
When you had the servo out how hard was it to turn the steering by hand it should turn very easy.If not the ball joints on the front end migjt be to tight?Also did you set the EPA on your tx( end point adjustment) so the servo won't over travel ?
 
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Does anyone know how the Durango upgraded diff,(the spiral cut gears)(td210057) is better or an upgrade for the kraton? Thanks.
Some guys where buying the Kraton diffs for there Dex8&Dex8t.The team Durango's where made for 4s and track racing and the diff uses a plastic cross tree instead of metal like the Arrma version.I would say a downgrade,but i do use there diff cups!
I rebuilt my center diff using the Hotracing aluminum diff housing and it is the smoothest diff i have built so far and stays cool,might want to try that instead?
 
Thanks so much, I didn't know that any brand besides rpm made aftermarket parts!!! Any other aftermarket parts or brands for the crayon? I u could reply or suggest it would be appreciated. Thanks

Forgot to ask, the metal diff housing, can it be used for the front and rear diffs to? Thanks
 
Thanks so much, I didn't know that any brand besides rpm made aftermarket parts!!! Any other aftermarket parts or brands for the crayon? I u could reply or suggest it would be appreciated. Thanks

Forgot to ask, the metal diff housing, can it be used for the front and rear diffs to? Thanks
Goggle Hot Racing Kraton will get you what and where to buy.The diff housing can go in all three
locations.
 
View attachment 5673
Some guys where buying the Kraton diffs for there Dex8&Dex8t.The team Durango's where made for 4s and track racing and the diff uses a plastic cross tree instead of metal like the Arrma version.I would say a downgrade,but i do use there diff cups!
I rebuilt my center diff using the Hotracing aluminum diff housing and it is the smoothest diff i have built so far and stays cool,might want to try that instead?
Did you still add a shim under each planetary gear and an extra on on each side of the satellites with the Aluminium case? As per the "bulletproof" diff mod. Curious as to if the case has tighter tolerances than stock.
 
Did you still add a shim under each planetary gear and an extra on on each side of the satellites with the Aluminium case? As per the "bulletproof" diff mod. Curious as to if the case has tighter tolerances than stock.
Used the same shims as stock plus one under each planetary gear,installed ,it is much smoother than the plastic case,doesn't leak,runs cooler.
 
Used the same shims as stock plus one under each planetary gear,installed ,it is much smoother than the plastic case,doesn't leak,runs cooler.
Thanks for this. Nice to know which shims I'll need. Am really liking the Hot Racing upgrades. It's great to know there are some very cool looking hop ups available from a decent, reputable aftermarket company. Thanks for letting us know about it, it is very much appreciated.
On a side note...this has to be one of the best forums I have ever participated in. There is always a kind soul willing to help and give good advice based on their own experiences.
 
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Just installed the new hot racing rear and front hub carriers. Looking good. Still have to install the motor mount, but seems like it's going to be a nice upgrade. The Hub carriers come with rubber sealed bearings and they seem to be pretty smooth. Can't wait to get the metal diff housing for my front, rear, and Center diffs
 

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?????, shocks are in the same position, same shocks, drupe screws are all the way out, can't figure out why one side seems to be farther down, it's
1487296321693-1927071362.jpg
on a level surface
 
Are shocks binding? Maybe cycle the arms up and down to see if there is something binding.
 
Thinking about getting some power upgrades, I have seen some people going for the Leopard 4092 motor and stock esc, but I was wondering if the mamba monster 2 2200kv would be faster/stronger thand the Leopard/stock combo? Anybody had both, Witch was stronger? Thanks!
 
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