Kraton Recommended Arrma Kraton & Talion Upgrades 2021

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@WoodiE
so I'm new here... thought this thread would be a good start, but noticed how outdated the OP was, maybe it could be edited with latest infos?
Like I didn't know the BLX180 ESC unit had issues... and you saying that we don't know about the 185 yet which worried me because I'm getting my first RC soon, but then I noticed that the post was 2 years old. As on any forum, sticky threads OP should be up to date.
super thx :)
 
I was running the 14t this weekend on the Kraton, about 85 outside. Was running it pretty hard on 6s on the road and in a huge grassy feild. So full throttle running quite a bit. Brought it back and temp'd it with the cheapy IR temp guage and it was in the 130's F.
 
hi guys. i need some recomendations. i just bought 14,15,16 and 17 th pinion. Differential 1'000,000; 500,000 cst fluid oil.

I was think to run offroad in 16th pinion with 500,000 front and rear diff oil with 6s and 45w rear shock and 75w front shock. and the new mamba combo x. I Also want to shimp my diff with this.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-seiki-differential-washer-set-muge0206/p3241

and what do you think about this battery monitor?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/venom-power-2s-8s-lipo-low-voltage-monitor-vnr0644/p231508
 
You are right on target with that mugen shim kit for inside the diffs. I have mic'ed ( measured with a micrometer) the little shims and they are twice as thick as the factory ones.

factory shims mic'ed at 6 thousandths of an inch.. .006
and the mugens mic'ed at 12 thousandths .012

So I either replace all of the little shims with the mugen ones, OR just put one big one under one of the bigger gears. All the diffis I have rebuilt seem to feel better with just one rather than two big shims or replacing the little factory shims on sides of the little gears.. I think the diffs from various years and months tolerances seem to vary. But that's just how I do it, you'll have to test on your own.

I used this shim kit to shim over the entire diff inside the front or rear diff case.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hpi-washer-13x16x0.2mm-10-hpi86598/p6677

And... I went against the grain of 1 million center diff fluid. and followed this article on diff fluid.

https://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech-article-diff-tuning-guide-for-buggy-and-truggy/

I did deviate a bit and went a little heavier in the rear but this is my setup, 7kFront 10k Mid and 5k Rear

Seems to do really well for my style of driving and track running.


And that battery monitor is great. Just DO NOT get it wet at all.
 
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You are right on target with that mugen shim kit for inside the diffs. I have mic'ed ( measured with a micrometer) the little shims and they are twice as thick as the factory ones.

factory shims mic'ed at 6 thousandths of an inch.. .006
and the mugens mic'ed at 12 thousandths .012

So I either replace all of the little shims with the mugen ones, OR just put one big one under one of the bigger gears. All the diffis I have rebuilt seem to feel better with just one rather than two big shims or replacing the little factory shims on sides of the little gears.. I think the diffs from various years and months tolerances seem to vary. But that's just how I do it, you'll have to test on your own.

I used this shim kit to shim over the entire diff inside the front or rear diff case.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hpi-washer-13x16x0.2mm-10-hpi86598/p6677

And... I went against the grain of 1 million center diff fluid. and followed this article on diff fluid.

https://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech-article-diff-tuning-guide-for-buggy-and-truggy/

I did deviate a bit and went a little heavier in the rear but this is my setup, 7kFront 10k Mid and 5k Rear

Seems to do really well for my style of driving and track running.


And that battery monitor is great. Just DO NOT get it wet at all.


Thank you so much for the advice and the article.
 
Happy blasting, everyone! Does anyone know if all of the GPM upgrades listed on their Kraton page at https://www.gpmparts.com/gpm-racing-arrma-kraton-6s-blx-monster-truck-c-1532_4405_4447.html fit the V3? Part numbers only match with the V2 parts if you compare them to the ones listed on Arrma's page. For example, GPM's servo mount is said to be compatible with AR320193, but the V3 uses AR320430. I know the servo mount fits the V3 as I already bought it, but was wondering, if the same is true for the other parts.
 
Happy blasting, everyone! Does anyone know if all of the GPM upgrades listed on their Kraton page at https://www.gpmparts.com/gpm-racing-arrma-kraton-6s-blx-monster-truck-c-1532_4405_4447.html fit the V3? Part numbers only match with the V2 parts if you compare them to the ones listed on Arrma's page. For example, GPM's servo mount is said to be compatible with AR320193, but the V3 uses AR320430. I know the servo mount fits the V3 as I already bought it, but was wondering, if the same is true for the other parts.
Yes the parts will work for a V3 Kraton, but the parts are made out of what I can only assume is a bunch of scrap aluminum melted down and then cast into whatever part they are making. The words quality and GPM are never used in the same sentence. You are better off with the stock parts over using the crap they try to pass off as parts.
 
Yes the parts will work for a V3 Kraton, but the parts are made out of what I can only assume is a bunch of scrap aluminum melted down and then cast into whatever part they are making. The words quality and GPM are never used in the same sentence. You are better off with the stock parts over using the crap they try to pass off as parts.

Alright. I already ordered the servo mount and the rear and front braces. Just wanting to add a of bit color to the truck. Would be nice if they lasted though. :)
 
My thoughts from the viewpoint of a V1:
NOTE: I purchased a rolling chassis off ebay, with nothing but the stock servo.

1.ESC: I've been using Hobbywing stuff since long before it was cool. I'm using a Quicrun 150a WP unit in the kraton. I also use the program card as it is soooo much easier than using the buttons on the ESC

2. Motor: using a Leopard 4274 2150kv. I probably should've got the 1800kv one, I use standard "MT" tires and run 6S so the 2150kv gets hot on 6s (175-185) on stock hearing. I'm currently running a 11T pinion and the motor stays around 145-155.
Remember, Brushless motors are much less about "What is faster" than it is about what you need for your application. If you are going to run 4S on stock tires, a 2200kv motor is fine. But if you are going to put 40 series tires on and run 6s, probably would be better suited for a 1650-1950kv motor.

3. Tires: my Kraton did not come with the factory tires so I cannot speak to their performance. They are tiny wheels/tires so I likely would've replaced them regardless. I use 2 sets of Axial 40 series beadlocks (one with Trenchers, one with mashers), one set of 40 series super stampers, and a set of old school maximizer beadlocks with HPI GT1 savage tires.

4. Hubs: the V1 hubs are garbage and I snapped one the first pack once I got the thing together. If you have. V1, do yourself a favor and buy the new hubs/hexes.

5. Wing mount: the RPM has worked great for me for the past year and a half. Stock was garbage.

6. Shocks: I want to start by saying I hate the shock package on the kraton with a passion. I do not like droop, and it doesn't matter what springs you go with, the Kraton is heavy and the back end is going to sag regardless. I've ordered the hardest Tekno and Kyosho springs I can find, and none of them are hard enough. 80 wt shock oil up front, 70 wt in the rear and my 15 year old nitro Monster GT lands jumps smoother than this thing does. Been playing with the idea of getting a set of LST shocks and seeing it they will do a better job.

7. Bearings: I use Avid RC for all my vehicles. Cheap insurance to carry an extra set.

8. Batteries: SMC in my opinion is the best all around battery for the money. gens-ace-r-spam and Turnigy batteries used to be very good and cheap but their popularity has raised prices. Most of the time though I use a old 5800 mah Racers Edge 4s pack.....just waiting for that thing to blow up.
 
4. Hubs: the V1 hubs are garbage and I snapped one the first pack once I got the thing together. If you have. V1, do yourself a favor and buy the new hubs/hexes.

5. Wing mount: the RPM has worked great for me for the past year and a half. Stock was garbage.

6. Shocks: I want to start by saying I hate the shock package on the kraton with a passion. I do not like droop, and it doesn't matter what springs you go with, the Kraton is heavy and the back end is going to sag regardless. I've ordered the hardest Tekno and Kyosho springs I can find, and none of them are hard enough. 80 wt shock oil up front, 70 wt in the rear and my 15 year old nitro Monster GT lands jumps smoother than this thing does. Been playing with the idea of getting a set of LST shocks and seeing it they will do a better job.
As another V1 owner, I am not gonna argue with these points. But it is worth pointing out that the V2 update addressed the hubs and wing mount, and the springs got better in the v2 and better again in the v3. So if someone is reading this after buying a V3, these three points do not really apply...
 
As another V1 owner, I am not gonna argue with these points. But it is worth pointing out that the V2 update addressed the hubs and wing mount, and the springs got better in the v2 and better again in the v3. So if someone is reading this after buying a V3, these three points do not really apply...

What is the spring rate on the V3? Maybe I'll try those next.
 
My thoughts from the viewpoint of a V1:
NOTE: I purchased a rolling chassis off ebay, with nothing but the stock servo.

1.ESC: I've been using Hobbywing stuff since long before it was cool. I'm using a Quicrun 150a WP unit in the kraton. I also use the program card as it is soooo much easier than using the buttons on the ESC

2. Motor: using a Leopard 4274 2150kv. I probably should've got the 1800kv one, I use standard "MT" tires and run 6S so the 2150kv gets hot on 6s (175-185) on stock hearing. I'm currently running a 11T pinion and the motor stays around 145-155.
Remember, Brushless motors are much less about "What is faster" than it is about what you need for your application. If you are going to run 4S on stock tires, a 2200kv motor is fine. But if you are going to put 40 series tires on and run 6s, probably would be better suited for a 1650-1950kv motor.

3. Tires: my Kraton did not come with the factory tires so I cannot speak to their performance. They are tiny wheels/tires so I likely would've replaced them regardless. I use 2 sets of Axial 40 series beadlocks (one with Trenchers, one with mashers), one set of 40 series super stampers, and a set of old school maximizer beadlocks with HPI GT1 savage tires.

4. Hubs: the V1 hubs are garbage and I snapped one the first pack once I got the thing together. If you have. V1, do yourself a favor and buy the new hubs/hexes.

5. Wing mount: the RPM has worked great for me for the past year and a half. Stock was garbage.

6. Shocks: I want to start by saying I hate the shock package on the kraton with a passion. I do not like droop, and it doesn't matter what springs you go with, the Kraton is heavy and the back end is going to sag regardless. I've ordered the hardest Tekno and Kyosho springs I can find, and none of them are hard enough. 80 wt shock oil up front, 70 wt in the rear and my 15 year old nitro Monster GT lands jumps smoother than this thing does. Been playing with the idea of getting a set of LST shocks and seeing it they will do a better job.

7. Bearings: I use Avid RC for all my vehicles. Cheap insurance to carry an extra set.

8. Batteries: SMC in my opinion is the best all around battery for the money. gens-ace-r-spam and Turnigy batteries used to be very good and cheap but their popularity has raised prices. Most of the time though I use a old 5800 mah Racers Edge 4s pack.....just waiting for that thing to blow up.

From what I understand, the v3 springs are very similar to the Tekno Orange - maybe even a bit stiffer.

I have to agree that the V1 shocks do indeed suck, the fronts I kept bending shafts and the rears I would always break pistons, no matter what droop settings I used. I have since switched to Teknos, currently running NB48.3 shocks with Tekno orange 80mm springs with 900 cst oil in the front, and ET48.3 shocks with Tekno orange 90mm springs with 900 cst oil in the rear. Night and day difference over the V1s, however I am running an Outcast and have not experienced rear end sag since I changed out the stock springs, so your results may differ from mine if you went that route.

And yes the V3 Arrma shock springs are longer and stiffer than the Tekno orange springs.

  • Arrma Shock Springs 85mm 6.2 lbs/in AR330507
  • Arrma Shock Springs 95mm 5 lbs/in AR330508
  • Tekno Shock Springs Orange 1.6x7.5T 6.11 lbs/in
    80mm TKR6093
  • Tekno Shock Springs Orange 1.6x9T 90mm 4.8 lbs/in TKR6083
 
I am not sure the wing mount is still a "must do" upgrade, the V2 wing mount is pretty good. Yes, it will break if you land hard on the wing a lot, but it is pretty tough. If you upgrade to the aluminum Hot Racing wing mount, and then land hard on that, I expect you would just break the diff housing instead...

Servo Mount - I jumped on this bandwagon early, but as time goes on, I feel this is one of those making a mountain out of a mole hill exercises. Does the mount flex? Yes. Does it create a REAL issue for us bashers? Maybe / Probably not. I think the weak servo is a bigger problem - and some of that blame gets put on the servo mount. So people get an aluminum mount, and with less flex, boom goes the stock servo... LOL If you run a strong servo from Day 1, I bet 98% of folks would not notice the bit of flex that is there... Plus, with the V3, it is better (less flexi) Now, if you are building a Track car, and are hoping to dominate the local Club Racing Scene - then a new servo mount would be on my shopping list, but only after a Tekno or TLR kit.

My Must Do list -
Servo
Shim the diffs

And not Must do, but a really good idea -
Bearings (have them on hand for as needed swaps, no need to do a full swap right away)
Chassis braces
Bumpers (especially for beginners)
Tires (unless your car came with backflips)
 
I just got back into the RC scene and I am only a few months into the Arrmas, So take what I say with a grain of salt, but I can at least tell you what I have found from my experience.

As Jerry said, a new servo is a must. I feel that this is true for almost every RTR vehicle. I don't think I have ever bought an RTR and not changed the servo. I went with the Savox SA-1256TG in my Kraton (not waterproof) and a Savox SW-1210SG in my Typhon (waterproof better performace).

When it comes to the mount, if you go with a high torque servo you will definitely notice the flex on the mount (especially if you set your endpoints to the max). For that reason alone I would say do the mount. Sometimes I bash in smaller areas and I need my truck to turn. The mount combined with the high torque servo really helps a lot.

For me, another must was a front bumper because in my opinion the Kraton (and the Typhon) didn't comer with one, lol. When I first got my Kraton I kept looking around in the box to see where the bumper was. I thought you had to attach it. What they give you for a front bumper is useless. The Kraton is a monster truck that goes fast. You are going to hit things. You need a better bumper.

As far as the wing mount goes, I have a V3 but never really tested the toughness of the wing mount. I had a few bad landings on the stock mount but that was before I found the BMX park. I went with the RPM wing mount for $16.00. Is it a must? Probably not. You could just wait until if/when the stock breaks and replace it with an RPM.

Shims for the diffs. All I can say is I ran the truck for 4 weeks on 6S with the stock, unshimmed diffs. During that time I had some nasty crashes, including one that sheared the screw off that holds one of the front shocks. I also bent the rear shock tower a bit. In any event, my diffs were fine. I ended up shimming them because I like to tinker and the shims are dirt cheap, but I am not completely sold I HAD to do it. And on top of that, I couldn't even fit the recommended number of shims in without the differential being very hard to turn. I could feel the gears grinding against each other. But this is the bottom line: I always replace the bearings on RTR's (I think Arrma's stock bearing are pretty poopy.) So if you are going to replace the bearing you are going to have to open the diffs. And you are going to have to replace the diff lube when you do that. So 1) change the lube weight because the stock weight of 10k/10k/10k is way to light, 2) Dry fit some shims and see how it feels and 3) replace those bearings. So while I don't think shimming is an absolute must with the V3 diffs, you are right there anyway so see if it needs it.

I ended up doing a lot more upgrades but none of which were musts. They were just improvements. I went with HR axle carriers and RPM A-arms. Not a must but I haven't had a pillow ball loosen or the pillow ball cap loosen since I did it (and they look cool). I did HR chassis braces. I did the HR motor mount and diff brace. I can remove the motor without removing the whole assembly. That's a nice convenience, not a necessity. I went with Voltage Hobbies shock towers. I had bent my stock rear slightly and I figured why not. But I certainly didn't have to and the crash that bent the stock one was pretty horrific. I have a few more more upgrades but you get the point.

The last thing I will address are the stock tires. I didn't like them and went with Pro-Line Trenchers. While not a must, this is a major performance upgrade for the type of bashing I do. If you are a parking lot king, then Trenchers aren't for you. But I think no matter what kind of driving you do, a tire change is a worthy investment.

Oh,one last, last thing. I don't care for the stock radios. Not a must, but it's something else to consider. You've invested $500 for the truck plus more money in upgrades. Why drive around on a $40 radio. Just my opinion. Peace!
 
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