Outcast Recommended Arrma Outcast & Notorious Upgrades

[allenrichards1]

Has anyone tried the Hot Racing aluminum hub carriers? And steering blocks?

 

[olds97_lss]

Why did you not recommend this Servo?

http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SA1230SG_Digital_Servo_p/savsa1230sg.htm
Coreless Digital Servo, 0.16 sec/500 oz-in @ 6V - SAVSA1230SG

It is great and has high torque.

I think it not really important to be waterproof.
This Savox model can handle up to 36KG !!

I only run waterproof now. Have had way too many failures due to wet grass or half hazard cleaning. It's worse on a nitro rig when you have a damaged throttle servo as they always tend to go WOT and lock there while overpowering the throttle return spring. You find out it's bad as you see your rig screaming away from you at WOT over the horizon into traffic or some trees. This day in age, for me, it's just silly for a basher to buy anything but waterproof/resistant. 20 years ago, they were prohibitively expensive and few existed. Now the price is comparable and there are many to choose from that run o-rings. I've found that it's the o-ring on the output shaft that helps the most. You can seal the case with RTV easy enough, but getting a seal around the output is a pain and sketchy at best when your trying to seal it yourself.

 

[Raji]

I only run waterproof now. Have had way too many failures due to wet grass or half hazard cleaning. It's worse on a nitro rig when you have a damaged throttle servo as they always tend to go WOT and lock there while overpowering the throttle return spring. You find out it's bad as you see your rig screaming away from you at WOT over the horizon into traffic or some trees. This day in age, for me, it's just silly for a basher to buy anything but waterproof/resistant. 20 years ago, they were prohibitively expensive and few existed. Now the price is comparable and there are many to choose from that run o-rings. I've found that it's the o-ring on the output shaft that helps the most. You can seal the case with RTV easy enough, but getting a seal around the output is a pain and sketchy at best when your trying to seal it yourself.

You are totally right. I got my self the Savox 1210 water proof. It's doing great

 

[allenrichards1]

So I went with the orange springs in front and yellow in rear. Truck sits way low now and front sags. Im running a 6S battery so I know thats pretty heavy. Which holes in the arms are you mounting the shocks? Mine are in outer hole. I know if I moved them into the inner one I could get some additional ride height. Oh, I also installed the Hot Racing aluminum steering blocks, the chassis dirt guard and the center diff brace.

 

[olds97_lss]

Moving to the inner hole will possibly add ride height, but will also make the suspension softer as there is more leverage on the shock the closer the bottom is to center.

 

[allenrichards1]

Ive got another question. Is anyone running the T-Bone front bumper with the Voltage Hobbies skid plate? Im thinking Ill need to source my own screws since this will add some additional space between the skid plate and chassis. @olds97_lss, thanks for the info. I did move the front shocks to the inner holes and got the additional ride height. I also found myself tightening down the spring tensioner ...

 

[Raji]

Ive got another question. Is anyone running the T-Bone front bumper with the Voltage Hobbies skid plate? Im thinking Ill need to source my own screws since this will add some additional space between the skid plate and chassis. @olds97_lss, thanks for the info. I did move the front shocks to the inner holes and got the additional ride height. I also found myself tightening down the spring tensioner ...

I think you don't need skid plate if you get the T Phone front or rear bumper check the picture

 

[allenrichards1]

I think you don't need skid plate if you get the T Phone front or rear bumper check the picture

Yep, just got it installed last night. Took the Voltage skid plate off. Does anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing Center Locker Spool Gear? Thoughts?

 

[Raji]

Yep, just got it installed last night. Took the Voltage skid plate off. Does anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing Center Locker Spool Gear? Thoughts?

Hot racing stuff are good for me

 

[olds97_lss]

I think you don't need skid plate if you get the T Phone front or rear bumper check the picture

Depending on where you run and what the skid covers, it may suit you best to keep an alloy one on there. I grind through plastic t-bone skids at skateparks within a single bash session. Granted, that's on a revo, but considering the ride height of most ARRMA trucks, guessing they are going to drag their butt as you hit the face of the jump as well. However, the position of the bend and where it drags may differ. On revo's they drag right where they curve, so the rest of the skid will have barely a scratch while the bent part will be ground all the way through.

 

[Dennis.W]

A question about the servo/servo mount/servo saver.
First: does anyone experience big problems with flex in the new model of servo mount V2 model Outcast?

And how can it be that the flexing servomount damages the servo? In my mind it would spare the servo as the mount gives instead of the servo. Please give your opinion on this.

And then, the servo saver is quite soft. Alot softer than the servo and servo mount.

I’ve been thinking about this, as the steering overall feels kind of weak, for example if i drive in grass at medium speed and turn hard it feels like the steering is giving and cant hold the wheels. But would that be the servo saver or the servo or the mount

Please share your opinions and knowledge in the question.

 

[olds97_lss]

A question about the servo/servo mount/servo saver.
First: does anyone experience big problems with flex in the new model of servo mount V2 model Outcast?

And how can it be that the flexing servomount damages the servo? In my mind it would spare the servo as the mount gives instead of the servo. Please give your opinion on this.

And then, the servo saver is quite soft. Alot softer than the servo and servo mount.

I’ve been thinking about this, as the steering overall feels kind of weak, for example if i drive in grass at medium speed and turn hard it feels like the steering is giving and cant hold the wheels. But would that be the servo saver or the servo or the mount

Please share your opinions and knowledge in the question.

Could be any of the three. With the saver and servo being the most likely culprits. Can't imagine the mount flexing enough to really make it that bad for a basher, perhaps on a track and not being able to hit the apex of a corner consistently. I know my buddies talion's servo saver likes to loosen on him. I think he ended up wrapping a bit of teflon tape on the threads so it would stay where he put it as the threadlock wasn't holding up.

 

[Dennis.W]

Could be any of the three. With the saver and servo being the most likely culprits. Can't imagine the mount flexing enough to really make it that bad for a basher, perhaps on a track and not being able to hit the apex of a corner consistently. I know my buddies talion's servo saver likes to loosen on him. I think he ended up wrapping a bit of teflon tape on the threads so it would stay where he put it as the threadlock wasn't holding up.

I agree, will try to tighten the saver a bit it feels very loose.
Hard to know what is too much, trial and error i guess!

 

[allenrichards1]

This maybe a little off topic but are there any bashers in Ft Lauderdale area? Ive been running up and down the street and there is an alley behind the house with some fill dirt that Ive been jumping but Im just out there by myself... And of course, I ordered the Hot Racing aluminum rear hub carriers as well...Also, the truck handles a bit better overall and under heavy braking with the orange and yellow Tekno springs but seems as if Id be beating it to death if I take it off of any big air jumps......

 

[Thatoutcast&slash]

The Arrma Outcast is in a nutshell a similar platform as the Arrma Kraton but with a short wheelbase. As such you'll find many of the upgrades recommended for the Kraton also pertain to the Arrma Outcast.

If you're just getting an Outcast here are a few things to think about upgrading.

Required items for a new Arrma Outcast

Batteries - LiPo batteries are where it's at for the Arrma Outcast and what's going to make wheelies and flips on demand possible. The Arrma Outcast can use the following LiPo battery setups:

• 2x2S LiPo packs
• 2x3S LiPo packs
• 1x4S LiPo pack
• 1x6S LiPo pack

If you're looking for LiPo battery suggestions, there is a great "Budget LiPo of choice" ongoing thread if you are unsure what battery packs to buy.

Battery Charger - If you're looking for more battery charger check the Recommend me a battery charger thread for a lot of great user feedback and suggestions.

One of the best bang for your buck chargers would be the Dynamite Prophet Sport Duo. It will charge both NiMH and LiPo batteries and can charge two batteries at one time which is really a must have feature for the Kraton as many will be running dual batteries.

LiPo Sack - Just buy one! A LiPO sack is super cheap and offers a great deal of protection to charge and store your LiPo batteries. Seriously, this is a must.

4x AA Batteries - These are for the transmitter and I'm a big fan of Eneloop rechargeable batteries. Either the Panasonic Eneloop or Eneloop Pro (higher capacity, longer run time).

If you're new to the hobby, I would also strongly suggest checking out the Tools for getting started in RC thread.

Now on to the upgrades to make the Arrma Outcasteven better!

Most Recommended Upgrades for the Arrma Outcast

Wing Mount - Without a doubt the most likely item to break first out of the box is the wing mount. If you don't like the wing then go ahead and remove it, but if you want the wing then buy the RPM Wing Mount. RPM products are guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.

Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) - The issues that plauged early Kraton's with the BLX 180 has long been resolved with the tried and tested BLX 185 ESC, which is also equipped in the new Arrma Outcast. So the ESC is certainly not an immediate upgrade suggestion as it was in the Kraton.

I'd suggest running stock unless you're just wanting more power in which case Tekin, Castle Creations, and even Hobbywing make great alternatives and buying one of their combo's (ESC and motor) could give the Outcast even more insane speed and/or power!

Servo - The stock servo is plenty powerful and waterproof as an added plus. The real weak point when it comes to the servo's on the Arrma Outcast is the servo mount. It flexes and flexes enough to damage the servo. Luckily there are several fixes for this:

• DIY Kraton/Outcast servo mount upgrade
• Aluminum servo mount from GKA Custom RC.
• Aluminum servo mount from Voltage Hobbies.

If you're really looking to upgrade the stock servo regardless, then something like the Savox SW-1210SG (powerful, steel gears, and waterproof), Savox SW-0231MG (a bit weaker than the SW-1210SG) or Hitec HS-7955TG. It is recommended you get either a Glitch Buster or External BEC when running these servo's.

Bearings - This isn't a surprise really as there aren't many RC's that are shipped with high quality bearings, or in some cases no bearings at all. In the case of the Arrma Outcast it's both, the bearings that are used aren't very good. A bearing set from Fast Eddy Bearings will be a massive upgrade over stock and what I would recommend! Avid and Boca Bearings would be some alternatives.

Bumpers - If you're really bashing your Outcast then you'll probably want a good durable bumper. T-Bone Racing make a very durable front and rear bumper for the Kraton. TBR bumpers are also guaranteed forever. If you break it, they will send you a free replacement.


If you have other suggested upgrades for the Arrma Outcast, please share below!

So I am wondering on my arrma outcast if I can have another body on it that works with hurting the body or anything else. I want a c10 or newer style of Chevy or gmc bodies. Please reply if you have any suggestions.

 

[Boamedt]

Im going to have to reccomend you at least reset your failsafe. And please throw out your included radio and transmitter. Second time driving the kraton, it took off at full speed and ripped the front off. I thought the radios were bad but this is unusable. If you don't ever want the chance of your car doing this outta the box or any other random time get a new one straight away. If not you risk this

 

[Uplift-RC]

Here is a quick tire upgrade. These are original big joes on tech5 rims zero offset. Could say my baby got new shoes! I'll run these tomorrow see how they do
I did trim and little on the front bumper to get the tire to clear. Outcast has about the same width as before, just filled up the space between the tires and the body.

I would much rather have the dBoots Backflips, much better tire.

 

[BIG C]

Im going to have to reccomend you at least reset your failsafe. And please throw out your included radio and transmitter. Second time driving the kraton, it took off at full speed and ripped the front off. I thought the radios were bad but this is unusable. If you don't ever want the chance of your car doing this outta the box or any other random time get a new one straight away. If not you risk this

I myself have never had a problem with the tactic radio equipment that came with my Notorious. i'd say they're a big step up from a traxxas tq. maybe you hit the throttle trim knob accidentally. Or are you talking about the new spectrum stuff Arrma now uses?


Currently running GPM wheelie bar and chassis braces,(the aluminum wheelie bar adds a little weight in the rear, really balanced the truck out in the air, seemed front heavy before), hot racing servo mount and servo linkage and proline trencher X's. i keep having problems with the wheelie bar loosening off, bending bolts and loosening the rear chassis brace. Anybody else have this problem?

 

[Full Throttle R/C]

Bump for this question.

I'd recommend 80wt front/rear and also M2C bladderless shock kits as well as the 4mm shock stand-off kit from M2C as well! ??Way less bouncing on landing!

 

[slick2500]

I myself have never had a problem with the tactic radio equipment that came with my Notorious. i'd say they're a big step up from a traxxas tq. maybe you hit the throttle trim knob accidentally. Or are you talking about the new spectrum stuff Arrma now uses?


Currently running GPM wheelie bar and chassis braces,(the aluminum wheelie bar adds a little weight in the rear, really balanced the truck out in the air, seemed front heavy before), hot racing servo mount and servo linkage and proline trencher X's. i keep having problems with the wheelie bar loosening off, bending bolts and loosening the rear chassis brace. Anybody else have this problem?

I think he was talking about the STX2.