Big Rock Recommended Motor Ball Bearings

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Thanks man.

Gonna have to give mine another measure later today once again. ?

So I checked the inner bearing slot in the can. Still looks like a 5x13x4mm.

Another thing is that if you search the Horizon hobby site, you'll find all kinds of beating sizes, but not the 5x16x5mm you mention.

Here's the standard Arrma 3s motor bearing's set's number: AR610003.

It even comes in a pair.

The closest thing I found to what you're referring to is a 6x16x5, and that one is apparently for the Kraton 8S:
Screenshot_20200407-174403_Samsung Internet.jpg


Maybe it's an error from the factory or somethin, but it definitely is not for the 3s line.
 
Well, Horizon is going to replace the motor. Unfortunately they are on back order. I ordered ceramic hybrid bearings already, so hopefully I can get it going again. They're also sending me a new ESC, BLX100, cause I've had issues with it going into LVC when running 3s and the battery still has good voltage. Of course, that's also on B/O. He didn't know anything about the motor bearing sizes, so it will be interesting to see what they are in the new motor. I'll keep you updated.
 
There are others on this forum and on the FB groups that have a bigger bearing (5X16X5) in the front. That's why I say to check before you order bearings. IMO the front is the only one that needs to be changed (to an aftermarket bearing) since it has the most load put on it but while it's apart you can just go ahead and change both. All the cheap Surpass, Goolrc, Racerstar etc. motors that I have and had all have 5X16X5 bearings front and back.
 
Well, Horizon is going to replace the motor. Unfortunately they are on back order. I ordered ceramic hybrid bearings already, so hopefully I can get it going again. They're also sending me a new ESC, BLX100, cause I've had issues with it going into LVC when running 3s and the battery still has good voltage. Of course, that's also on B/O. He didn't know anything about the motor bearing sizes, so it will be interesting to see what they are in the new motor. I'll keep you updated.
Those full ceramic bearings are sure expensive.

Yeah man, let us know. It sure is appreciated.

I'm waiting for mine too. Can't wait to crack it open, and get screwed once again with some more down time now that I ordered the 5x13x4mm ones. ?
There are others on this forum and on the FB groups that have a bigger bearing (5X16X5) in the front. That's why I say to check before you order bearings. IMO the front is the only one that needs to be changed (to an aftermarket bearing) since it has the most load put on it but while it's apart you can just go ahead and change both. All the cheap Surpass, Goolrc, Racerstar etc. motors that I have and had all have 5X16X5 bearings front and back.

Yeah, you're right. Even with my blown motor, the bearing on the top cap of the motor was perfectly fine, the one I had to sacrifice my mid-day snack for and "bread" out.

The poor misses thought I was getting constructive in the kitchen for once.

This all better turn out well. The down-time is getting to me ?
There are others on this forum and on the FB groups that have a bigger bearing (5X16X5) in the front. That's why I say to check before you order bearings. IMO the front is the only one that needs to be changed (to an aftermarket bearing) since it has the most load put on it but while it's apart you can just go ahead and change both. All the cheap Surpass, Goolrc, Racerstar etc. motors that I have and had all have 5X16X5 bearings front and back.

Yeah, you're right. Even with my blown motor, the bearing on the top cap of the motor was perfectly fine, the one I had to sacrifice my mid-day snack for and "bread" out.

The poor misses thought I was getting constructive in the kitchen for once.

This all better turn out well. The down-time is getting to me ?
 
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Those full ceramic bearings are sure expensive.

Yeah man, let us know. It sure is appreciated.

I'm waiting for mine too. Can't wait to crack it open, and get screwed once again with some more down time now that I ordered the 5x13x4mm ones. ?


Yeah, you're right. Even with my blown motor, the bearing on the top cap of the motor was perfectly fine, the one I had to sacrifice my mid-day snack for and "bread" out.

The poor misses thought I was getting constructive in the kitchen for once.

This all better turn out well. The down-time is getting to me ?


Yeah, you're right. Even with my blown motor, the bearing on the top cap of the motor was perfectly fine, the one I had to sacrifice my mid-day snack for and "bread" out.

The poor misses thought I was getting constructive in the kitchen for once.

This all better turn out well. The down-time is getting to me ?
Im replacing a blown bearing right now and am having a very hard time getting out the one on the pinion side. Its destroyed and i have nothing to grip onto. Wondering if youd have any advice if youve done this already? Thanks ?
 

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Im replacing a blown bearing right now and am having a very hard time getting out the one on the pinion side. Its destroyed and i have nothing to grip onto. Wondering if youd have any advice if youve done this already? Thanks ?

Yeah man. Good thing you asked.

Had to get mine out cause it imploded half way through a bashing session.

That makes it even harder to get out I bet, cause it gets jammed in there from the impact.

To the matter at hand though: the easiest way I found was to use a long flat head screw driver. Stick it in from the outside of the case where the pinion shaft usually sticks out from, so the butt end of the motor (don't stick it inside the motor where the entire rotor goes in from), and when I say stick it in, I mean have the flat end of the driver lodged into the old bearing's race or channel.

Get it in there good, and make sure the screw driver is tight within the old bearing's race. Then get an ol hammer or a heavy set of flat pliers and tap the screw driver's end with a bit of heft. You should feel the bearing starting to get lose by then. Take it easy and take your time with it, or you might damage the case's edge where your driver is in.

Move around the race and do it all over again if you feel you need to loosen the other sides of the bearing.

I'll have a short vid posted tomorrow to show how I do it better.

Not sure why, but took me a while with other drivers trying to do the same thing, until I used one of the long ones.

Hope it works out for you. ??
 
Yeah man. Good thing you asked.

Had to get mine out cause it imploded half way through a bashing session.

That makes it even harder to get out I bet, cause it gets jammed in there from the impact.

To the matter at hand though: the easiest way I found was to use a long flat head screw driver. Stick it in from the outside of the case where the pinion shaft usually sticks out from, so the butt end of the motor (don't stick it inside the motor where the entire rotor goes in from), and when I say stick it in, I mean have the flat end of the driver lodged into the old bearing's race or channel.

Get it in there good, and make sure the screw driver is tight within the old bearing's race. Then get an ol hammer or a heavy set of flat pliers and tap the screw driver's end with a bit of heft. You should feel the bearing starting to get lose by then. Take it easy and take your time with it, or you might damage the case's edge where your driver is in.

Move around the race and do it all over again if you feel you need to loosen the other sides of the bearing.

I'll have a short vid posted tomorrow to show how I do it better.

Not sure why, but took me a while with other drivers trying to do the same thing, until I used one of the long ones.

Hope it works out for you. ??
Thank you sir, seems like a good plan and makes sense. Im sure it wont be easy but I will give it a shot tomorrow when I have a little more free time and let you know how it goes! ?
 
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