Senton Removing drive shaft for 2wd?

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Bdavis

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Tyler, Tx.
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. 4x4-Mega
Hey gents! I was curious if running the senton with the drive shaft out for 2wd can cause any damage. I've done it a couple of times and it seems to be harmless but then again, I'm a newbie! I'm running a 4000kv brushless with a 70amp ESC. All other parts are stock. I was thinking that might be a little too much torque going all to the rear diff but im not sure. What do yall think? Anyone ever run theres this way?
 
Theoretically if you have two diffs connected, the power is devided evenly over those two. When you have a 2WD all that torque/power goes to a single component. So 4wd would be better.
And why would you? 4wd handling is always superior to 2w rear drive.

The big unknown for everybody at the moment; will the Mega driveline handle a 4000kv/60A brushless set?
You might be the first to find out.

Not the answer you were looking for, but a lot here are interested in your future findings ;)
 
Thanks for the reply. So far (1 week) the stock components have handled the 4000kv motor and new ESC just fine. Doesn't mean it will last though.
 
I would suggest to inspect the drive-cups and internals of the diffs soon. I do not know if these diffs are filled with silicon oil or cheap grease, make sure you find out in advance!

I would buy one if they are solid enough!
 
Coming from traxxas...plastic driveshafts/CVDs were the bane of my existence on even 2s lipo. I have a Raider XL (dogbones) and I generally have preferred this to CVD's...even MIP CVD's which I end up using in my traxxas vehicles. Are people experiencing these snapping like crazy? Especially with esc/motor upgrades.
 
I ran these driveshafts on 6s - & can still run them on 6s ;)
 
Crazy... Not that I doubt you but these are made from composite plastic? I cannot imagine them holding up to 6s. Just to confirm you are talking about the new Megas and not the cvds from the nero/fazon?

... And if the plastic gears are similar to those in the old plastic blx granite/raider/etc then they simply cannot hold up to 6s! Not trying to pick an argument, just trying to reconcile past and present experience.
 
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6s all the way, pause the vid at the end & you'll see all the shafts are stock.

I modded the spur & input gear . . . & yeah the plastic diffs aren't holding up at all. The cracking sound you hear are the rear ring & pinion slipping. I'm not about to touch my Nero parts for this car. Those parts will only get more scarce & expensive in the future.
 
Watched your video. Crazy again!... as in cold weather to boot where plastic/composite snaps so easily the CVDs surviving 6s is beyond impressive. Coming from Traxxas initially - the plastic sliders were such crap they would break on NIMH with the stock motors! I ended up with MIP CVDs which are bricks in order to get my stampede to handle 4s (diffs would detonate on anything more powerful).
 
Watched your video. Crazy again!... as in cold weather to boot where plastic/composite snaps so easily the CVDs surviving 6s is beyond impressive. Coming from Traxxas initially - the plastic sliders were such crap they would break on NIMH with the stock motors! I ended up with MIP CVDs which are bricks in order to get my stampede to handle 4s (diffs would detonate on anything more powerful).

I hear you with the Stampede. The MIP CVDs chewed up my Stampede & Slash diffs, so I went aluminum on everything & managed to harden the diff gears w/o wrecking them. It STILL COULDN'T handle 6S w/o blowing :rolleyes: Then enter this thing with it's plastic CVDs that can survive a nuclear strike :eek: The diffs are garbage but can hold up well on 4S. It seems like the truck's only weaknesses are the plastic diffs & the spur that can melt, otherwise I would throw a 1/8 scale system in the stock truck & send on a one way trip to Mars :p
 
Just to be clear as I do not own one.... Are the diffs plastic or the transmission gears (as in the previous blx plastic gears)? Too lazy to look at the arrma website.
 
Just to be clear as I do not own one.... Are the diffs plastic or the transmission gears (as in the previous blx plastic gears)? Too lazy to look at the arrma website.

The gears inside the diffs, outdrives, & axles are all sintered steel. The diff ring & input pinion are plastic.
 
I hear you with the Stampede. The MIP CVDs chewed up my Stampede & Slash diffs, so I went aluminum on everything & managed to harden the diff gears w/o wrecking them. It STILL COULDN'T handle 6S w/o blowing :rolleyes: Then enter this thing with it's plastic CVDs that can survive a nuclear strike :eek: The diffs are garbage but can hold up well on 4S. It seems like the truck's only weaknesses are the plastic diffs & the spur that can melt, otherwise I would throw a 1/8 scale system in the stock truck & send on a one way trip to Mars :p

Megasty, Have you had to upgrade the front diff input gear yet? I recall from another post you had only done the rear, curious if front finally let go after time and more power?
 
Megasty, Have you had to upgrade the front diff input gear yet? I recall from another post you had only done the rear, curious if front finally let go after time and more power?

The front doesn't need it, as a matter of fact DON'T do it. I tried it just for the heck of it & the slack in the axle causes the driveshaft to shake like crazy. It might rub the chassis & bulkhead. But the front doesn't take much abuse even on 6S.
 
Im running a smaller diameter tire in the front of my vorteks will removing the drive shaft help me not burn up the front diff im worried on running it 4wd with the smaller streetfighter proline 2.8 in the front it has the stock katar in the rear
Anyone here ever run smaller front wheels on a 4wd rc how bad it is??? I replaced front shocks to gpm 87mm on the vortek but it sat just too high in the front so i swapped the tires to the 2.8 atreetfighter from proline in the front and kept the stock ones in the back any thoughts? Should i increase diff fluid to 100k in the front or idk
 
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