Typhon Removing steering and wheel slop..

[Ari33]

The steering and wheel slop is unnaceptable on my V4 Typhon 6S, I really need to do something about it..

Now don't laugh.. and yes, I know it sounds crazy .

To remove slop, which in turn caused control surface flutter from control surface linkages on rc planes.... we used to add a drop of superglue to servo horns where the z bend of the control rod went through. You glued it then just twisted it to break the bond then you had instant slop free moving joints.

Could this possibly work for the pivot balls or rod ends? It would effectively recoat/resurface the non metal surfaces and massively reduce the play. Once the glue set and you broke the bond, the smoother metal surface SHOULD remain free of any set glue. I'm thinking of trying it on my existing steering mechanism to see what happens as I need a new one anyway... but would also like to hear your thoughts on the idea.

It seems to be due to the slop sum of all the individual steering components although the servo saver posts with the bronze bushings seems to be where the majority of it comes from. Does anyone know what size these bearings are?

I'm really not liking the play in the wheels either and just wondering if anything can be done to remove it?

Are there any other aftermarket parts out there which really help..

HR steering assembly upgrade?
HR steering blocks?
Tekno rod ends?
Shims? where to shim exactly?


What parts/upgrades/mods help the most?

Thanks..

 

[Aclewis]

The steering and wheel slop is unnaceptable on my V4 Typhon 6S, I really need to do something about it..

Now don't laugh.. and yes, I know it sounds crazy .

To remove slop, which in turn caused control surface flutter from control surface linkages on rc planes.... we used to add a drop of superglue to servo horns where the z bend of the control rod went through. You glued it then just twisted it to break the bond then you had instant slop free moving joints.

Could this possibly work for the pivot balls or rod ends? It would effectively recoat/resurface the non metal surfaces and massively reduce the play. Once the glue set and you broke the bond, the smoother metal surface SHOULD remain free of any set glue. I'm thinking of trying it on my existing steering mechanism to see what happens as I need a new one anyway... but would also like to hear your thoughts on the idea.

It seems to be due to the slop sum of all the individual steering components although the servo saver posts with the bronze bushings seems to be where the majority of it comes from. Does anyone know what size these bearings are?

I'm really not liking the play in the wheels either and just wondering if anything can be done to remove it?

Are there any other aftermarket parts out there which really help..

HR steering assembly upgrade?
HR steering blocks?
Tekno rod ends?
Shims? where to shim exactly?


What parts/upgrades/mods help the most?

Thanks..

I would suggest upgrading ur servo horn and other steering components to metal, hot racing is ur best bet. This may not work if you are on a tight budget tho.

 

[Ari33]

I would suggest upgrading ur servo horn and other steering components to metal, hot racing is ur best bet. This may not work if you are on a tight budget tho.

Thanks, I'm not on a tight budget. I'd just read mixed reviews on the HR steering assembly as far as fixing the slop goes..

Can anyone with the HR steering blocks confirm that they have less play? I know they use a larger than stock bearing but that may not necessarily help if thats where the slop is solely coming from on the wheel play.

 

[Giff]

Thanks, I'm not on a tight budget. I'd just read mixed reviews on the HR steering assembly as far as fixing the slop goes..

Can anyone with the HR steering blocks confirm that they have less play? I know they use a larger than stock bearing but that may not necessarily help if thats where the slop is solely coming from on the wheel play.

I just got HR blocks and c hubs and there is definitely less slop, I also got the HR steering rack and metal pivot bushings. Its drives 2 times better and is durable

 

[Ari33]

I just got HR blocks and c hubs and there is definitely less slop, I also got the HR steering rack and metal pivot bushings. Its drives 2 times better and is durable

Thank you, I was a bit worried I was going to be adding unnecesary and heavy bling which might not improve the situation. Very helpful, I've now ordered them all. Thanks again!

 

[Camaroboy383]

You can shim the axle stubs behind the hex's to remove axle/ wheel slop... buy packs of different thicknesses and play around with them until your happy..

 

[btosic]

I must ask a few questions:

Is the slope so large, is it affecting performance?
Is the slope(play) causing damage to components?

I had a chance to hold some buggy racing competition cars, and all of them had some slope, racer guys say that some slope is not a problem, binding is a very big problem. If all components are tight any dirt will cause problems.
I have speed/drag cars capable of 200+ km/h, they have some slope and I never had a handling problem...

 

[Ari33]

I must ask a few questions:

Is the slope so large, is it affecting performance?
Is the slope(play) causing damage to components?

I had a chance to hold some buggy racing competition cars, and all of them had some slope, racer guys say that some slope is not a problem, binding is a very big problem. If all components are tight any dirt will cause problems.
I have speed/drag cars capable of 200+ km/h, they have some slope and I never had a handling problem...

.

I don't know if its excessive or not, would love to compare it with other members Arrmas.
I don't feel that its damaging anything either but It seems to affect high speed stabilty adversely on rougher surfaces and also stops it from tracking straight at any speed, always either left or right (Its not the servo at fault)
Its one of these things that I would need to directly compare with a low slop setup as I have made tyre and suspension changes over time since new.

The front end has around 6-7mm of spongy slop measured at the outer point of the tyres turning radius.
The rear wheels only have about 3-4mm but are far looser.

See-
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10157708092727673&id=704542672

Is that amount of play excessive in your opinion?

 

[btosic]

That is a nice red new Typhon! Don't worry, it is not the tightest, but it is ok. Arrma cars are bashers, not racing precise cars.
I know Arrmas and Teknos very well. Just compare Tekno EB48.4 and Typhon 6S V4, stearing of EB48.4 is nice and tight(still some slope) but EB48.4 has 12 bearings(if remember) in steering department that Typhon doesn't have. EB48.4 doesn't have pillow balls, pillow ball adjustment makes great impact...
But, cars that I love in my collection are all Arrmas, they are fast, fan, durable and when I brake them, it's not the end of the world.
I have two Typhons 6S, and man, what that car is capable to endure! I wrote a long term review of ultra performance road Typhon, little car with 9KW of power down the road!
Typhon is the best Arrma car and I think the best do it all car. One day you could bash it on the skate park, and tomorrow you can run it on the road 100mph with just small setup changes!

 

[Ari33]

Thanks for your input.
Its actually a 2019 grey and red Typhon. I'm happy enough with its power and performance, I just think the drivability and steering precision could be improved a lot. As they say, power is nothing without control.
With the way it is at the moment, I struggle to do 60mph without losing it on all but the smoothest of surfaces.. never mind 100mph.
The pivot balls are just right, (why does everyone call them pillow balls btw?) The steering linkages themselves have only a tiny amount of play,
its definately the servo saver posts with the bushes plus the wheel bearing play combined that make it so sloppy

I'm going ahead with the HR parts and I will put up a video here on how much improvment the upgrades provide as it may help others..

Thanks again..

 

[Arrma15T 1968]

That is a nice red new Typhon! Don't worry, it is not the tightest, but it is ok. Arrma cars are bashers, not racing precise cars.
I know Arrmas and Teknos very well. Just compare Tekno EB48.4 and Typhon 6S V4, stearing of EB48.4 is nice and tight(still some slope) but EB48.4 has 12 bearings(if remember) in steering department that Typhon doesn't have. EB48.4 doesn't have pillow balls, pillow ball adjustment makes great impact...
But, cars that I love in my collection are all Arrmas, they are fast, fan, durable and when I brake them, it's not the end of the world.
I have two Typhons 6S, and man, what that car is capable to endure! I wrote a long term review of ultra performance road Typhon, little car with 9KW of power down the road!
Typhon is the best Arrma car and I think the best do it all car. One day you could bash it on the skate park, and tomorrow you can run it on the road 100mph with just small setup changes!

I know of a couple of typhons that are souped, handling ,speed and durability.= cool and happy customer.

 

[NastyNate]

Drive a Kraton. Your typhon will feel like silk.

Try out your idea and let us know ?or ?

 

[Ari33]

Update-

Managed to remove some of the steering slop by tightening up the steering (servo saver) pillars from the top. I'd been doung it wrong in trying to tighten up the bottom end.

Turns out the rear hubs have about 2-3 times the amount of play than the front so they must be wearing out faster. Why though? CVD's vs Dogbones?

 

[Ari33]

Update 2

Ok.... The rear wheel slop was not from within the hubs, it was due to having aprox 1.993572mm space on the bottom (Wishbone) bolt. They hadn't put in enough spacers and the hub could slide side to side by almost 2mm... and also freely twist radially due to the bolt to wishbone tolerances.

I've just added 2 x 1mm washers (lightly polished to take a couple of thou off so that they don't bind. It has removed about 90% of the play and wow!

HUUUUUUGE improvement in tolerance. I haven't driven it yet but I just know it is going to handle very differently... I just hope its an improvement! ?
I imagine the rear wheels having play like that could possibly create a degree of passive rear wheel steering but if that was their intention why not put some spring washers in there to facilitate RWS but also stop the rear wheels flailing about? Bonkers!

Do everyone elses rear hub/wishbone bolts have this same 2mm ish mm of play there and is there a reason why you haven't done anything about it?

 

[mike k]

Update 2

Ok.... The rear wheel slop was not from within the hubs, it was due to having aprox 1.993572mm space on the bottom (Wishbone) bolt. They hadn't put in enough spacers and the hub could slide side to side by almost 2mm... and also freely twist radially due to the bolt to wishbone tolerances.

I've just added 2 x 1mm washers (lightly polished to take a couple of thou off so that they don't bind. It has removed about 90% of the play and wow!

HUUUUUUGE improvement in tolerance. I haven't driven it yet but I just know it is going to handle very differently... I just hope its an improvement! ?
I imagine the rear wheels having play like that could possibly create a degree of passive rear wheel steering but if that was their intention why not put some spring washers in there to facilitate RWS but also stop the rear wheels flailing about? Bonkers!

Do everyone elses rear hub/wishbone bolts have this same 2mm ish mm of play there and is there a reason why you haven't done anything about it?

would you be willing to post a pic or better a video of the slop before and after? My outcast 6s has what feels like a lot of slop in all four wheels but I have no reference point.