Outcast Removing stock wheels

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Outcast Removing stock wheels

tktran303

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Newbie Q #92: When I tried to take the wheels off for the first time, I couldn't get them off.

The hexes comes off without trouble, but not the wheels. I'm pulling and pulling and wiggling and putting in WD40 to see if I can loosen something, but it's not coming off.

Is it supposed to slide off? Or are the wheels threaded on?

Anyone else have this happen?
 

NITROMAN2000

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Do a search. This is a well documented problem with ARRMA. Things that work: pulling harder, getting a fly-wheel puller, using heat gun, very sharp exacto knife, work around the thread.
 

tktran303

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What's the problem?

The wheel hub or the wheel?

Ie. am I going to have ongoing issues with other wheels, or just the stock wheel?
 

NITROMAN2000

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Issue is with the stock wheels only. The factory is going HE-MAN on the nuts and it deforms the plastic neer the threads.
 

DEADWright

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A little heat from a plumber's torch and some wiggling/pulling worked for me. Just enough heat to soften the wheel close to the threads.
 

Cater4anytink

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Newbie Q #92: When I tried to take the wheels off for the first time, I couldn't get them off.

The hexes comes off without trouble, but not the wheels. I'm pulling and pulling and wiggling and putting in WD40 to see if I can loosen something, but it's not coming off.

Is it supposed to slide off? Or are the wheels threaded on?

Anyone else have this happen?
Lol had the same problem other day,but because I broke the lower right support arm I couldn't pull to hard. The mrs found it funny though
 

Outcaster

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Guess I was lucky, just had one rear wheel that was a bit difficult to remove. Just muscled it a bit and it came off.

@tktran303 as has been mentioned in other posts on this subject in case you aren't aware, just remember to take a dremel with a grinding stone to the inside of the wheels to smooth them out and remove any burred plastic before putting them back on. Didn't take much on mine, now they're on and off easy.
 

tktran303

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I hate it when numbskull work causes more work for others.

The QC needs to be improved. Eg. Wrong screws protruding into battery tray causing damage to lipo batteries.
 

Outcaster

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I would agree with that statement.

The Outcast is my first Arrma and I was surprised to come across these issues straight out of the box. I didn't experience any issues like this with any of my other RC's.

For the $ we pay for these I would expect everything to be installed properly and QC inspected to a higher standard prior to being boxed. Small issues, easily corrected but still an inconvenience to deal with on a new toy. I do love the Outcast and the components Arrma uses when compared to my Traxxas ones so I can live with the little things. I will be picking up a Kraton in the near future, so obviously not that big of a deal and I really do think what you get included with Arrma RC's is the best bang for your buck in RC these days.

On a side note, I've experienced the same QC issues with the last two new full-size trucks I've purchased. Just seems like manufacturing fit and finish tolerances have a much larger acceptance range these days than they used to.
 

Buck

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Newbie Q #92: When I tried to take the wheels off for the first time, I couldn't get them off.

The hexes comes off without trouble, but not the wheels. I'm pulling and pulling and wiggling and putting in WD40 to see if I can loosen something, but it's not coming off.

Is it supposed to slide off? Or are the wheels threaded on?

Anyone else have this happen?

Same problem last night...couldn't get them off.
Ridiculous.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Same problem last night...couldn't get them off.
Ridiculous.
I feel your guy's pain. I gently heated mine with a heat gun near the threads, blow dryer would probably suffice, but ultimately had to stand on wheel carefully with truck on its side one foot each side and pull hard near axel with side to side rocking to get wheel plastic to recess somewhat. As mentioned, use Dremel or round file to debur wheel hole once you finally get them off. Total PITA. Had to do same with 2nd set of new Backflips now on Kraton. Enjoy and don't dislocate your fingers...Lol.
 
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Buck

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I wonder if a soldering iron on the hub in the center of the wheel to heat it up would work well?
I felt like I was going to break suspension components last night, so I said to hell with it and put the wheels back on, case closed.
Was trying to get them off so I could gain straight access with the hex driver to the rear chassis brace hex, but managed to get it unscrewed regardless at a slight angle despite the wheel being in the way slightly.
So no rush for my wheels to come off for the time being...thank God.
 

Rich Duperbash

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I wonder if a soldering iron on the hub in the center of the wheel to heat it up would work well?
I felt like I was going to break suspension components last night, so I said to hell with it and put the wheels back on, case closed.
Was trying to get them off so I could gain straight access with the hex driver to the rear chassis brace hex, but managed to get it unscrewed regardless at a slight angle despite the wheel being in the way slightly.
So no rush for my wheels to come off for the time being...thank God.
I would stick to heat gun or blow dryer, and yes I too thought I would break something. If you pull and crank near the hex by the hubs you will have better leverage. I did lots of back and forth and circular motion to loosen wheels before they would finally pull off. I was more worried about cracking a rim or ripping the seams of my tires.
 

tktran303

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Rich,

So you put the new Backflip wheels your Kraton without any trouble, but had difficulty with removal?

So the running/using of the vehicle is deforming the plastic wheel, and embedding the wheel onto the axle?
 

Rich Duperbash

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Rich,

So you put the new Backflip wheels your Kraton without any trouble, but had difficulty with removal?

So the running/using of the vehicle is deforming the plastic wheel, and embedding the wheel onto the axle?
No. I had the same issue with 2nd set of Backflips, wheel hole is a tad smaller then stock Kraton wheel hole, go figure, the Outcast and Kraton have the same size hex's! Both of my sets had to be deburred with a rat tail file to fit on the hex's easily. Some used a Dremel, I'm old school used round file bought at Home depot after trying a body reamer to enlarge hole. View attachment 5372
 

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chevys10zr2003

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No. I had the same issue with 2nd set of Backflips, wheel hole is a tad smaller then stock Kraton wheel hole, go figure, the Outcast and Kraton have the same size hex's! Both of my sets had to be deburred with a rat tail file to fit on the hex's easily. Some used a Dremel, I'm old school used round file bought at Home depot after trying a body reamer to enlarge hole. View attachment 5372
Am I the only one that just uses a 1/2" drill bit to drill the holes larger after I get them off?
 

tktran303

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So do you think it's a manufacturing tolerance issue, rather than assemble issue?

As a first timer, taking an hour wrestling with wheels doesn't give one much confidence in the rest of the things I'm going to need to tackle, as per service interval (10/20 runs)...
 
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Rich Duperbash

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So do you think it's a manufacturing tolerance issue, rather than assemble issue?

As a first timer, taking an hour wrestling with wheels doesn't give one much confidence in the rest of the things I'm going to need to tackle, as per service interval (10/20 runs)...
Honestly I think it's both. I've had other brand wheels like Duratrax lockups that fit very tight. On top of that, assemblers probably use power tools to save their wrists and torque wheel nuts on a bit snug pushing minute amount of plastic into threads. Think of it this way, once they're off, you won't have to deal with the frustration again provided you debur/sand/file a bit. Kind of like thread locker issues, once you've broke it free, you're done.
 
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