Replacing Driveshaft (Dog Bone) Pins On Arrma 6s Vehicles

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My dog bone keeps coming out talion 2200kv esc mamba x and now there is a space that keeps it from going back in place. Anyone knows why
 
So one of my front dogbone pins keeps sliding out half way during runs(so the dogbone pin is flush on one side and 2x as long on the other). Anyone else have this issue? This post help me realize I can press the pin all the way out and I tried putting red loctite in the hole and then pressing the pin back in. Dunno if this is going to work have not ran the car yet since I tried this but was wondering if anyone knows if it will work or if anyone else has had this issue and has another solution. Maybe one of those Mugen replacement pins may fit more snug and prevent the pin from backing out.


Also for a press I used a pinion gear puller, works real well and is a nice tool to have just for pinion gears as well. Can come in handy for some other stuff as well and it doesn’t cost much at $8. Heres a link to what I used.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_53
 
I have a similar pinion gear puller and I thought it wouldn't be strong enough so I didn't try that. Good to see that also works
 
I have a similar pinion gear puller and I thought it wouldn't be strong enough so I didn't try that. Good to see that also works
Yea worked great but like I said the pin backs out on its own so may be an ill fitting pin, perhaps the gear puller would struggle more on a more tighter fitting pin.


Thx you Yammo its not the pin the whole thing is to short
Sorry the dog bone is too short? I’m not sure I understand what you are trying to say. The dogbone and pin are both stock parts so nothing should be too short unless they come too short from the factory and need to be replaced.
 
My kraton exb center driveshaft pins are worn bad just after only a few months of running.
I don't have anything to make a press. I just have a poor drill that i use with old driver hexes
 
You will need a tool as in one of the earlier links. These are extreme tight fit and both are hardened steel, drilling would be a nightmare and the next pin wouldn't hold. Even with the tool it can be challenging.
Obviously you can always buy new driveshafts.
 
You will need a tool as in one of the earlier links. These are extreme tight fit and both are hardened steel, drilling would be a nightmare and the next pin wouldn't hold. Even with the tool it can be challenging.
Obviously you can always buy new driveshafts.
Driveshafts are expensive. I mean i only have a old drill to make a hole on a rounded metal surface
Nit saying im going to drill the pin thats impossible lmao
 
Yes bones are expensive no doubt. Just part of the hobby here. I tried pressing pins years ago on AE bones. With limited success. They always loosened up before wearing out. And actually snapped cups when they loosened. More of a hassle than anything. Never trusted them.
I usually polish/ smoothen the cups sliding areas and chamfer the sharp edges of the cups. Using a dremel. Then use a dry lube. Slightly less wear on the pins. New drive cups tend to be very course and abrade the pins. Grinds them down easily. Learned this when I raced at the track.
 
Yes bones are expensive no doubt. Just part of the hobby here. I tried pressing pins years ago on AE bones. With limited success. They always loosened up before wearing out. And actually snapped cups when they loosened. More of a hassle than anything. Never trusted them.
I usually polish/ smoothen the cups sliding areas and chamfer the sharp edges of the cups. Using a dremel. Then use a dry lube. Slightly less wear on the pins. New drive cups tend to be very course and abrade the pins. Grinds them down easily. Learned this when I raced at the track.
I think thats what killed my pins dry lube. Like almost half of the pin of one side is gone on my kraton exb
Made them crunchy sometimes
Red threadlock before putting a nee pin in
My rear diff outdrives on my kraton are kinda done already tooBut pins still decent.
 
^^^ Why do you think dry lube killed the pins? The pins generally run without. Dry lube cant hurt anything. No dirt sticks to it.
Grease is another story. I don't use it. It becomes a gritty paste and eats the pins and cups.
I use a wax based dry lube. Chain Saver by Dupont.
 
^^^ Why do you think dry lube killed the pins? The pins generally run without. Dry lube cant hurt anything. No dirt sticks to it.
Grease is another story. I don't use it. It becomes a gritty paste and eats the pins and cups.
I use a wax based dry lube. Chain Saver by Dupont.
When i say my parts became crunchy i mean i didnt dry.
Like half of my center driveshaft pins are gone
 
I've seen quite a few people over the years asking if it was possible to replace worn pins in the driveshafts on Arrma 6s vehicles and if so, how to go about doing it.

View attachment 46815

Since I've got a few sets of driveshafts laying around with the pins worn down, I figured I'd find the time to rebuild them with new pins and put them back into service again on a couple of new builds I've been gathering parts for.

After a bit of searching around the web for a quality pin, and a tool that would accomplish the job, it's surprisingly easy.....
* as long as you have the right tool * for the job.

Arrma uses two different length pins that are press fit into their driveshafts.
3mm x 12.75mm pins at each end of the center shafts and inner shaft on the front and rear driveshafts.
View attachment 46813
The 2 odd balls are 3mm x 14.5mm pins on the large end of the outside rear dog bones
View attachment 46816

Luckily, Mugen sells high quality pins and are a perfect replacements for both of those stock 3mm Arrma pins.
3 x 12.8 pins Part# MUGC0270 for the 8 smalls
View attachment 46826
and 3 x 13.8 Part # MUGC20271 for the big ends at the rear
View attachment 46827

The longer of the two Arrma pins actually measures out at 3mm x 14.5mm, but the difference of 0.7mm between the the two isn't enough of a variation to make a difference in its function.

to press the pins in and out:

You've basically got 2 options here, and this may or may not be the breaking point of this exercise when it comes to the expense of rebuilding your dog bones with new pins.

Option 1: buy a tool that is specific to the job at hand.
View attachment 46828

Since I'm a fabricator at heart and I don't feel the need to spend $60 on a tool that I can easily make myself, I chose option 2.
The tool I made is an old standing seam roofing clamp used for solar panels that can be purchased online for about $6 and repurposed as a pin press very easily.

How it functions is a bit difficult to describe so here's a quick video to get a better understanding of the premise behind making your own pin press.


Pressing the worn pin out
View attachment 46829
View attachment 46833
Press the new pin in behind the old one
View attachment 46834
The end result.
View attachment 46835
Good as new and ready for more abuse ?

- Edit to add a couple quick videos to show how to make a simple inexpensive pin press tool and how I press new pins into the ends of the driveshafts

Link to aluminum standing seam roof clamp that I repurposed into a pin press
https://www.rapidmaterials.com/S-5-...MIkvbfgaeo5AIVCo7ICh3F4AkjEAQYAiABEgIAR_D_BwE

Thought You should know that I used a variation of this method today to replace pins on my T6S speed runner rear dogbone. I have so many spares that I'll likely never use, so I "borrowed" two pins to replace my worn down ones. Hopefully, the bump of this thread will open the door for many more to see the true ingenuity of @Mr.Duke. Saving me money one pin at a time(y)
 
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Great thread might try this down the road.
 
Old chain link remover I used as a kid 30+ish years ago. It was old then, lol. Found it at my fathers house last week and it works perfect for 6s pins!

20220106_174907.jpg


20220106_174914.jpg
 
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