Ride height & Droop on Limitless

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Miko1976

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
Hi all. Just joined the forum

Anyhow, I have a Limitless and my ride height is all over the place. I have to add preload to one side like mad to get it even, same goes for the droop screws. I checked the chassis and it isn't tweaked. I teared the car apart to give it a good cleaning and didn't see any bent hinge pins etc. What could be wrong? Ride height is off by 3-4mm on front and back. I'm baffled.

I can get even droop, but the droop screws are also uneven. I do speed runs, not bash. Any input would be appreciated.
 
Good observation. Wheel alignment is critcial.
Are you keeping the stock motor configuration and 2 lipo trays? That matters first hand. 8s gear or 6s gear. 8s gear is heavier. Installing the motor to the right side and and removing one lipo tray makes the rig more unbalanced. In that case need to use Firmer Option spring sets. IDK what your case is.
Second, Are you checking measurements with the lipos installed, body in place, full running weight powered ON, so ST is straight?

I can tell you that my Early release Lim was a dam mess. Pulled my hair out for days.
Turned out that I tore the whole chassis down. Front first where the most Droop was off. Same as you. Droop screws differed greatly L to R. and still off by about 3-4+mm. I found the Stamping of the chassis was bad under the left side lower hinge pin. I called HH and got a new chassis.
Hopefully that is not the case with you.
But need for you to give more info. Questions I asked above. :cool:

Edit: I am running 6s gear stock motor config, 2 lipo trays. I never run one' lipo on one side. Many do this, I just don't. I also use a cross weight scale to balance it out. I added some weight under the front bumper just ahead of the axel. There is a location ( cutout) in there for weights specifically.
 
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Thanks for they reply. Everything is in stock location in terms of electronics and trays. Running two 4s LiPos. Took all measurements with the car turned on and fully loaded. I got mine in December. How about you? A bad batch perhaps?

Also, do you measure your ride height, droop etc. I have a droop gauge but it's for an 1/8 scale.

Thanks again.
 
It can happen.
But Mine was a REAL early release, like within 3 months of it release announcement when it first came out, the early batch.
July 2019.
It was a mess. Rear diff locked up assembled wrong. 3 of 4 wheels so tight, the hubs and wheels were damaged. I needed an impact gun to remve the wheels. Pivot ball nuts were cross threaded. 1 Leaking shock. Diff oil leaked all over the box. Chassis stamped bad (stated above) Sticker on the body all peeling off and crooked, One sticker peeled off in the box stuck on the plastic wrap. A few hub bearings crushed.
This was all received in an Arrma sealed box. I swore I would never buy another early release Arrma again. Never will.
Arrma had to send me over $200+ in parts. Much was on B/O being a new release. It took me over 6 months to run my Lim. I had all the Electrics here waiting from the beginning.
Crap happens. I suggest you look over everything closely for defects. Get a list of all the part numbers and call Arrma if you see bad parts. I feel QC and defective assy has been bad recently in general.
Check all the parts that I noticed on mine to be bad.
I don't think you should have much issues, I hope at least. I cant see another Lim worse off than mine was.
Just me.
I measure using a ruler and square. On a perfect flat table. I have lines for reference. I have a long ruler (straight edge) And a short one. It's all angles and straight lines to measure. Just simple geometry. These setup just like scale cars. The rear of the Lim should be a bit higher for serious speed running.(Raked)
:cool:
 
It can happen.
But Mine was a REAL early release, like within 3 months of it release announcement when it first came out, the early batch.
July 2019.
It was a mess. Rear diff locked up assembled wrong. 3 of 4 wheels so tight, the hubs and wheels were damaged. I needed an impact gun to remve the wheels. Pivot ball nuts were cross threaded. 1 Leaking shock. Diff oil leaked all over the box. Chassis stamped bad (stated above) Sticker on the body all peeling off and crooked, One sticker feel off in the box stuck on the plastic wrap. A few hub bearings crushed.
This was all received in an Arrma sealed box. I swore I would never buy another early release Arrma again. Never will.
Arrma had to send me over $200+ in parts. Much was on B/O being a new release. It took me over 6 months to run my Lim. I had all the Electrics here waiting from the beginning.
Crap happens. I suggest you look over everything closely for defects. Get a list of all the part numbers and call Arrma if you see bad parts. I feel QC and defective assy has been bad recently in general.
Check all the parts that I noticed on mine to be bad.
I don't think you should have much issues, I hope at least. I cant see another Lim worse off than mine was.
Just me.
I measure using a ruler and square. On a perfect flat table. I have lines for reference. I have a long ruler (straight edge) And a short one. It's all angles and straight lines to measure. Just simple geometry. These setup just like scale cars. The rear of the Lim should be a bit higher for serious speed running.(Raked)
:cool:
I'm gonna take it it apart all the way down to the chassis tomorrow. What should I be looking for specifically? What did you see on yours? I'm sure it's the chassis, even though it isn't tweaked. Something is way off. Also gonna check shock shaft length.
 
Absolutely check each shock length. Eyelet to eyelet. Shaft ends may be unequal, not screwed in equally from shock to shock.
I refused to believe it was my chassis originally. New rig and all. I did check with a ruler the plane of the chassis at all angles also..
But once I remove the front bulkhead and whole bumper arms etc., it was obvious. I found exactly 3-4mm rise on the left of the front chassis. No damage to the chassis. It was Stamped wrong at the factory when stamping the alloy plates. Left side stamping was barely there. Just Bad QC.
That 3-4mm becomes even more dramatic with the wheels on and finally measured out.
With the shocks, I would release all preload bringing the collars up all the way. Then mark the collars with a paint or similar bright marker. Then measure preload equally by the amount of turns the collars are turned. A ruler or Caliper to make them equal and helps.
I have setup many kits. I prefer kit building and understand RC rigs fairly well enough and this Lim just drove me crazy for days before I figured it out.
Onc you have the 4 shocks all equal, try lifting one end of the rig with an exact knife form its chassis centerline. Notice if one wheel lifts first before the other. L and R. Wheels should be equally lifting off the surface. With droop screws equally adjusted L and R. Other wise something is tweaked.
These are not precision chassis for what it's worth. But should close enough to adjust and dial in.
 
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Hello,

What do you mean that droop is all over the place? you mean that to get even drop left/right the screws needs to be threaded more on one side then the other?

Also, it is expected to have more preload on one side to get even ride height on the Limitless, as your 8s motor is heavy and the car is not balanced in term of weight (try to balance the car in the air when your fingers are on the center of the chassis and you'll see). just have more preload on one side, it's ok.

Also, do you measure your ride height, droop etc. I have a droop gauge but it's for an 1/8 scale.
I believe the most reliable way to measure droop is with this method:
 
Hello,

What do you mean that droop is all over the place? you mean that to get even drop left/right the screws needs to be threaded more on one side then the other?

Also, it is expected to have more preload on one side to get even ride height on the Limitless, as your 8s motor is heavy and the car is not balanced in term of weight (try to balance the car in the air when your fingers are on the center of the chassis and you'll see). just have more preload on one side, it's ok.


I believe the most reliable way to measure droop is with this method:
I actually watched this video today. I just need the 30mm blocks. I understand the uneven weight distribution will cause a variance in ride height and droop screws, but what I have is crazy. I'll post some pics of the collars so you can see.
 
Hello,

What do you mean that droop is all over the place? you mean that to get even drop left/right the screws needs to be threaded more on one side then the other?

Also, it is expected to have more preload on one side to get even ride height on the Limitless, as your 8s motor is heavy and the car is not balanced in term of weight (try to balance the car in the air when your fingers are on the center of the chassis and you'll see). just have more preload on one side, it's ok.


I believe the most reliable way to measure droop is with this method:
Yeah this guy knows his poop. For sure. I know of him. He is a serious racer. 👍
 
I actually watched this video today. I just need the 30mm blocks.
Or any other blocks with a known height, and adjust your calculations.

I understand the uneven weight distribution will cause a variance in ride height and droop screws, but what I have is crazy. I'll post some pics of the collars so you can see.
How much your motor weigh? it's the weight that you have on one side only. stock is already unbalanced with it's 400g motor.

Consider moving to the alternate layout of having the motor facing the rear on the right side, and having the batteries stacked on the left side. with bigger motors it will be more balanced.
 
Or any other blocks with a known height, and adjust your calculations.


How much your motor weigh? it's the weight that you have on one side only. stock is already unbalanced with it's 400g motor.

Consider moving to the alternate layout of having the motor facing the rear on the right side, and having the batteries stacked on the left side. with bigger motors it will be more balanced.
I considered that but I want to be sure the car is mechanically true before I make any changes. I'm in a Facebook group and people running much larger motors aren't having this issue. I need to see the chassis itself, then I'll decide.
 
That's why I use an RC cross weight scale. It doesn't lie.
But like you said, The chassis should be confirmed straight and true first. In stock config, the balance is pretty even for a 6s setup. Droop should be even all around and not dramatically off. If you have severe droop differences L to R, there is a problem.
Everything falls from there.
 
That's why I use an RC cross weight scale. It doesn't lie.
But like you said, The chassis should be confirmed straight and true first. In stock config, the balance is pretty even for a 6s setup. Droop should be even all around and not dramatically off. If you have severe droop differences L to R, there is a problem.
Everything falls from there.
Do you mean a tweak station? I had one when I raced 1/10 onroad. I've found a couple for 1/8. I wonder if that will take the Limitless considering it's 1/7.
 
That's why I use an RC cross weight scale. It doesn't lie.
But like you said, The chassis should be confirmed straight and true first. In stock config, the balance is pretty even for a 6s setup. Droop should be even all around and not dramatically off. If you have severe droop differences L to R, there is a problem.
Everything falls from there.
And it's tweaked... also on backorder. Oh well... at least I know
 
I never felt the lim/infr/fel chassis(all same chassis part) were all that, It is stamped in many places from sheet alloy. Who knows if it is even 6061 at best. It might even be 5052 cheap alloy for all we know? :unsure:
Surprised Arrma and other upgrade brands never Made a quality Alloy upgrade to this chassis. One crash and they do tweak easy as it is. Been there.
Been searching around. CF is not an option for me for several reasons. All that I see out there.

BTW, I would check to see if JennysRc has a Lim/ Fel/ Infr. chassis. I got one there a few times. Fairly cheaper than retail price. Good to have an extra on the side. I know I do. When I warranteed my Lim chassis it was on B/O also, HH said. I just got mine from JennysRC. 3 months later HH sent me the chassis.
Good luck.
:cool:
 
I never felt the lim/infr/fel chassis(all same chassis part) were all that, It is stamped in many places from sheet alloy. Who knows if it is even 6061 at best. It might even be 5052 cheap alloy for all we know? :unsure:
Surprised Arrma and other upgrade brands never Made a quality Alloy upgrade to this chassis. One crash and they do tweak easy as it is. Been there.
Been searching around. CF is not an option for me for several reasons. All that I see out there.

BTW, I would check to see if JennysRc has a Lim/ Fel/ Infr. chassis. I got one there a few times. Fairly cheaper than retail price. Good to have an extra on the side. I know I do. When I warranteed my Lim chassis it was on B/O also, HH said. I just got mine from JennysRC. 3 months later HH sent me the chassis.
Good luck.
:cool:
Doesn't Jenny's RC sell stuff from out of the box? I saw them on EBAY when I was looking for a chassis. They said they sell the genuine parts but AFTER disassembling the kit first.
 
Yes JennysRC.com is a Kit Breaker. If that is what you are asking.
They have a web site also. Ships from NJ. FWIW
Kit breakers sell the genuine parts from a whole disassembled kit. 👍 👍:cool:
They are not retail packaged parts. But brand new without a Mfr. warranty. Cheaper prices.
 
Yes JennysRC.com is a Kit Breaker. If that is what you are asking.
They have a web site also. Ships from NJ. FWIW
Kit breakers sell the genuine parts from a whole disassembled kit. 👍 👍:cool:
They are not retail packaged parts. But brand new without a Mfr. warranty. Cheaper prices.
That last part is what worries me lol. I don't mind the kit breaking, but what if it's tweaked? Can't get my money back.
 
^^^
A good point.
Ted at JennysRc has been good with missing and damaged parts. Many have said. And with my personal exper.
In the end its your call. 🤷‍♂️
Maybe the chassis wont be a good choice? IDK.
I think the odds of another bad defectively Stamped chassis is low. But just my guess? A chance decision?
JennysRC does take returns last I heard. I purchased so $much$ with them. Much more than retail parts. I never had a problem. And when I was trying to source something, Ted emailed me to say that the part is in, immediately when it was uploaded to the web site. Very Customer oriented IMHO.
Maybe others will chime in on this. :cool:
 
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