Senton Rod ends or pivot balls???

[AnimalHippie]

Hey guys, watching these plastic pivot balls wear away with every pack. This Florida sand is hard on them.

I've looked through a few threads on here with guys saying switch the balls to associated ones, guys saying to use Traxxas Jato rod ends and guys recommending the full kit of turnbuckles and rod ends from GPM.

One thing in all of those threads is you never hear back of what the results after time. I'm a total budget RC guy and I always try to spend what RC $ I do have on the right things.

I noticed I could use the Jato ends for the top ends cause the length is close to the same. I also have some trx-4 rod ends that look like they would be a perfect fit for the steering. Anyone tried these?

From you guys experience What has had the best results after time?

Thanks for any help and advice!!! Have a great day!!!

 

[Adamj804]

Hot racing makes a whole set. About $16

 

[Yas]

I use 6S tie rods (massive, M5 rear ones), 6S rod ends and steel pivot balls on my Typhon 3S. Short and stout!

Post in thread '6S turnbuckles on a 3S...?' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/6s-turnbuckles-on-a-3s.38883/post-658299

 

[AnimalHippie]

Hot racing makes a whole set. About $16

Thank you! Unfortunately from what I've read. Most people say they're not even worth installing. That's why I didn't even mention them in the first post. Honestly I wouldn’t expect aluminum to last much longer than the composite ones in our sugar sand here.

I use 6S tie rods (massive, M5 rear ones), 6S rod ends and steel pivot balls on my Typhon 3S. Short and stout!

Post in thread '6S turnbuckles on a 3S...?' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/6s-turnbuckles-on-a-3s.38883/post-658299

Thank you! I will be reading this thread soon!

 

[SrC]

^^^
This is one reason why I don't run in the sand/Beach. Is what it is. Fine sand is doing way more $harm$ to other components, not just your rod ends. If you haven't noticed already. Rod end wear may be the least of your parts problems long term.
Accept that these will wear out faster than normal where you bash. Any upgrade will. Just replace with stock and have plenty on hand. Cheaper in the long run. What I would do IF I had to run in sand exclusively all the time.
Fine sand is extremely abrasive. Right? Like putting sand paper to these parts.

 

[morrjr71]

I put the Hot Racing aluminum pivot balls in my Typhon 3s, and they were junk. They were so weak they deformed just by pressing them into some of the tighter rod ends. I replaced them with the Associated steel pivot balls as soon as I could get some. I can't give you my opinion on the longevity of the Associated pivot balls because my Typhon 3s doesn't get much usage (I have 12 other RC vehicles).

 

[GRC]

Thank you! Unfortunately from what I've read. Most people say they're not even worth installing. That's why I didn't even mention them in the first post. Honestly I wouldn’t expect aluminum to last much longer than the composite ones in our sugar sand here.

I've posted that the Hot Racing pivot balls don't help with steering precision like many seem to think. But they are MUCH more durable than stock plastic. At this point mine are quite worn down, but since they don't rub as much now, it doesn't seem like they're getting worn down any further. But I don't run in fine sand that often.

I also tried the Team Associated steel pivot balls. I found the fit to be way too tight. They completely bound up my steering. With some effort I probably could have gotten them to work and eventually they will wear down the rod ends and loosen up. But I just went back to the Hot Racing ones.

 

[MambaSenton]

I haven’t had any issues with with my senton, but I also loaded up on stock replacement parts from Jenny’s for this reason good to have some spares for cheap I have Atleast 2-3 sets of the stock tie rods/turn buckles/hubs/shafts, just got my four 3s diffs in yesterday along with inputs Incase of any more diff related issues lol. I’d say go stock replacement

 

[GRC]

As for turnbuckles and rod ends. I'm still using stock Arrma rod ends. Yes, they get worn down and I've snapped a few, but overall, they don't break often and are cheap and easy to replace. I bought one replacement set and have yet to use them all. As for turnbuckles, I was bending them often. Lunsford has titanium turnbuckles for many Arrma models, including the Senton. They are durable as hell. I did manage to bend one, but only one, the rest have survived everything. The bent one was replaced under Lunsford's lifetime guarantee. They are a bit pricey, but they're direct fit. That Typhon 6s option requires a lot of parts and modification.

 

[SrC]

I have bent $Ti$ TB's before. Lundsford and others years past. And found Ti will even snap completely, more often than steel will bend. Choose your poison wisely.
The only main reason to go with Ti is for weight reduction. The only reason. For Track rigs.
Driver error is the main problem here if they bend or break. Ti is not always the answer with Turn Buckles. More bling if anything. Quality Tool Steel derived TB's are best. If you can find a good set of them. Usually a mixed bag.
Stockers are probably best, being more cost effective.

 

[GRC]

As far as science goes, I know steel is supposed to be stronger than titanium, with titanium's advantage being less weight.

But for Arrma stock 3s turnbuckles vs Lunsford titanium 3s turnbuckles, it's not even close. I don't know about the 6s models, but the 3s Lunsfords are FAR more durable. I was bending and snapping the stock ones all the time. And that was when I was doing smaller jumps. I'm jumping 3 times as high now, and like I said, I've only managed to bend one Lunsford and it was only slightly bent.

Cost effectiveness is an issue. If you don't bend/snap them often, the high price of Lunsfords is not justified. But if you're snapping them often, a one-time purchase with lifetime replacement becomes the better option.

 

[SrC]

^^^Sciences of metallurgy... Many different grades etc.
Generally, you would need more mass with Ti, (thicker) to make it equivalent or stronger than tool steel. I find that Ti will snap at the threads in most cases if they do. Steel can be bent back in most cases. Ti usually cannot. Ti will usually just snap off if it only bends and then you try to straighten it.
From my experience.

 

[parcou]

Using these on my Big Rock and Granite and am so happy to leave the HR balls. Over a year of time now and still good. I do Spay Cows Silicone spray on mine and also when I clean it I add silicone spray to all balls and joints

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...cuNjkzS0IMqX6rV9dbOkqzdoerB8ArB4aAvIZEALw_wcB

 

[AnimalHippie]

I use 6S tie rods (massive, M5 rear ones), 6S rod ends and steel pivot balls on my Typhon 3S. Short and stout!

Post in thread '6S turnbuckles on a 3S...?' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/6s-turnbuckles-on-a-3s.38883/post-658299

I might do this down the road. Looks beefy for sure!!!

^^^
This is one reason why I don't run in the sand/Beach. Is what it is. Fine sand is doing way more $harm$ to other components, not just your rod ends. If you haven't noticed already. Rod end wear may be the least of your parts problems long term.
Accept that these will wear out faster than normal where you bash. Any upgrade will. Just replace with stock and have plenty on hand. Cheaper in the long run. What I would do IF I had to run in sand exclusively all the time.
Fine sand is extremely abrasive. Right? Like putting sand paper to these parts.

Unfortunately in Florida sand is what you get. This state is a giant sandbar . I run mostly in the woods next to my house on two short courses I've cut through the woods. And yes other parts are getting worn. I just warrantied a motor from what I believe to be bearing issues. That's RC Life!

Using these on my Big Rock and Granite and am so happy to leave the HR balls. Over a year of time now and still good. I do Spay Cows Silicone spray on mine and also when I clean it I add silicone spray to all balls and joints

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...cuNjkzS0IMqX6rV9dbOkqzdoerB8ArB4aAvIZEALw_wcB

I think I'm going to pick up some of these and the set someone said fit the steering ends. Going to pick up a HR Bellcrank and some motor bearings here soon as well. I don't bash on it very hard. Mostly 3-4 ft jumps and dirt drifting around my little tracks. I don't see the need to get Ti turnbuckles at the moment.

Sorry for the late response fellas! Life comes before the hobby.

Thank you everyone for your responses and advice!!!! Hope you have a great day!!!! Once I change them I'll update after some use.

 

[parcou]

I think I'm going to pick up some of these and the set someone said fit the steering ends. Going to pick up a HR Bellcrank and some motor bearings here soon as well. I don't bash on it very hard. Mostly 3-4 ft jumps and dirt drifting around my little tracks. I don't see the need to get Ti turnbuckles at the moment.

Sorry for the late response fellas! Life comes before the hobby.

Thank you everyone for your responses and advice!!!! Hope you have a great day!!!! Once I change them I'll update after some use.

On the 3S model, I have been VERY happy with the stock Bellhousing and this video here. The stock one is good but if you follow this video and get those shims....you will not need the HR one. I believe the Senton is the same as Big Rock, Granite, etc in the 3S line....someone check me if I am wrong

 

[GRC]

Going to pick up a HR Bellcrank

What are you hoping for? If it's performance improvement, it won't provide any. Based on advice in this forum, I got the HR bellcrank and ran it for over a year. But I found it does not reduce steering wobble like some say. Shimming the bellcrank/ackermann and reducing slop in the servo link like in the video above reduces steering wobble. I went back to the plastic bellcrank. It may even be better. It required fewer shims. I would not say the HR bellcrank performed worse, but there's no noticeable improvement.

But if you want the HR bellcrank to reduce wear from running in sand, it would probably be better than stock plastic. I wouldn't know, I don't run in fine sand, so I haven't noticed any such wear on the HR or plastic bellcrank. The HR bellcrank was durable and held up for the entire time I used it. But without a performance improvement, I didn't think it was worth the extra weight and cost.