Limitless Rot's 140+ mph Limitless GT build log

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Seems OK
Did the data logs show any of the RPM spikes again?
No it didn't. So either my tweaks resolved it, or the burnout didn't replicate the same conditions enough. Running no cap pack seemed to be positive on voltage sag two, getting ripple in return though.

I hope it will be less windy tomorrow and try again.
 
Update 42:

My BittyDesign body was scratched some at my airport run. So I decided to try something else than epoxy/FG for reinforcing the body. And went for PUR, it's mass density is very low and with volume it does bring plenty of strength, and less room for air to be. It's become some piece of art if i can say so myself:

View attachment 175793

View attachment 175795

Did some rewiring to change the lights.(all red is going blue) And as my bec system failed, I added a separate battery for my lights/cooling.
Used iron wire to strengthen the front.
Cleaned up, oiled up and shimmed all my bearings. I didnt feel smooth at first, but after one run it's all perfect.
The PUR in the body does dampen the sound a little, i like how the high pitch sound is replaced by a more whoosh sound
As ge 't nie mi wit, gebruik dan pur of kit ;) nice job, looks solid
 
I caught a brief moment where it stopped raining long enough and the wind was absent.

Already was positive before, now i am even more. I hit 215kph (133.5mph) on 350m at only 90% power out, rpm's still increasing:

1635607639278.png

So the problem of weird rpm spikes seems gone. By either
- Changed logging to 5 samples instead of 10
- Added padding under the esc and other parts that could resonate
- Replaced the rear cup (old one was worn a little)
- Lowered gearing
- Removed (older) cappack, getting a still acceptable ripple in return

For anyone interested, here is a 14sec clip of the shaft during the run:

 
Looks like a tekno outdrive in rear.ive install them an ordered some..they Sean much better.haven't ran them yet thou

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View attachment 176970
Nah, don't think mine is a tekno, it has flat sided but no rounding at the end. I just have a big pile of 5mm/8mm cups from all kind of brands. I picked it at random tbh
 
It's winter shelf queen time!

As my seven65 body lost some of it's looks and i can now easily get them at a German shop for a fair price, I started with a brand new one:

still work in progress, but the paintwork is very clean imho

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Working with new these very bright COB led panels in combination with a strobe controller:

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ps. I also got a mini lathe to properly truer tires now. Thx @jondilly1974 for the tip. TZ20002MR works as a charm. I use the shipping box to catch the foam scraps ;)
 
It's been a while since my last update here. I did change some during the winter. Like adding a reinforced Grafil Hyper7 bodyand forged carbon diffuser cover.
updates will follow.

But what i really wanted is to tease the COB lights mentioned above. I had the rear (flashing red) installed for quite some time already, but the front light were stuck in logistics for many months. I just wanted to show of the effect of a single cob led panel shining through the canopy.

So now the mission is to make use of some perfect roads nearby, that are heavily congested during daytime, but doable in the middle of the night (i hope)

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The led panel (20W-12v) does face the transpartent part of the canopy. It gets hot, but doesn't melt/disform the body

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The 3d printed bracket is mounted on the bracebar and thus faces down a few degrees, along with the rake of the car

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At the rear i have a red cob panel, which pulses with a little blinker module. My diffuser cover holds 2 power buttons (esc and lights/cooling)

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Lights and my silent cpu fan run on a separate 850Mah battery, hence the seperate button.

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It's been a while since my last update on my builds. As i just finished a new body, maybe it's time...

Lineup of my active speedrunners:
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Left to right:
  • VTE2 with the DP FC100 body
  • VTE1 with the PF Hyper-SS body
  • Limitless GT with the DP Dome body

VTE2:
Aimed for 3S-4S-6S-8S usage, carrying the CC 1721
  • New FC100 body
    • extra verts in the rear
    • Transparant in the front and pearl white in the back to project the red rear light
  • Chassis
    • 3D printed sides, with 3M duallock to attach the body
    • Voltage display
    • 3D printed mount to attach the armma splitter
    • 3D printed mount for dual antenna's
    • 4 COB ledstrips
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VTE1:
Lightweight 1/8 aimed for 3S-4S usage, carrying a TP4070 (4150kv)
  • Hyper SS body (with some cracks)
    • extra sharkfin vert in the middle
    • Transparant in the front and back. Yellow/grey/white colors help to see its position at long distance
  • Chassis (doesn't need to be pretty, just light)
    • 3D printed sides, 3M duallock to attach the body (all sides)
    • 3D printed center gearbox
    • Voltage display
    • armma splitter mounted on custom underbody+difusser from laminated cardboard
    • 2 COB ledstrips
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Limitless GT:
6-8S usage, carrying a CC 2028 -1100KV
  • Undamaged Dome body
    • Pearl white for good visibilty
    • Transparant in the front for focussed road lights
  • Chassis
    • Scorched carbon fiber GTC chassis
    • 3D printed sides and frontlip, 3M duallock to attach the body
    • 3D printed panel for voltage (esc and seperate battery for lights/cooling) and motor temperature
    • Custom Alu/CF battery mount.
    • Shortend diffuser with Carbon Fiber cover with power buttons (esc and secondairy)
    • 2 COB ledpanels in the front, bigger red one in the rear blinking
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Last edited:
Hi guys,

I figured it's about time I share what I've done with my limitless up to now. Typically me, it's only the first iteration and many are likely to follow. Actually, i've had an earlier iteration, which was mostly destroyed when blew my first tyre. The limitless proved itself to be sturdy, cars broke into pieces at lower speeds.
The limitless deserves to beat my 224kmh personal record from my Hobao. And I've not hit 200kmh with this one yet. Some day it will...

The front:
View attachment 99276
  • Some led strips on the upper A-arms for visibility
  • GRP S3 wheels. The hoons weren't really holding up at high speeds.
  • Removed the original nose and replaced it with a 3D printed gopro session mount in the middle and some aero flaps in front of the wheels. Not so much for downforce, but a first attempt to influence the air resistance of the open wheel configuration.
Internals:
View attachment 99288
  • TP power 4070CM - 2200KV motor with with dual heatsink fans
  • Mamba XLX with some cooling improvements (ducted 60x60 fan, thermal paste/pads and extra heatsinks to match the 60x60 fan) It's not properly mounted yet as i ordered some extreme delta fans (to replace the current ones on the motor and esc) and EC8 plugs to replace the XT90's.
  • I moved the centre brace bar a little to the side to make room for the esc and make it fit under the original body
  • The 4S Turnigy 5k graphene hardcase lipo's are rather big, but they give me less ripple and amp restriction than other batteries I've tried. I would rather not have them both on one side, but if i want to keep using the original body i don't see any alternative.
  • a DIY 7pack 2200uF low ESR 35V caps
  • The receiverbox is filled with cables, Flysky voltage/temp sensors, 12V ubec for fans and leds. I put the receiver(flysky IA4B) outside as i like accessibility (and i don't speedrun in the rain) and i was having some lesser range compared to what i am used to with other cars.
  • A cheapo DS3235SG servo rated for '35 kg', decent enough to keep a straight line.
  • Batterystrap/sideskirt holders have velcro to keep the body thight.
Underbody:
View attachment 99289
  • 3D printed sideskirts matching the rake (suspension all down they don't touch the ground) and a expansion bubble increasing the ground effect a little
  • Wheel case plates from thingiverse.(credit to <edit in later>). They should improve the ground effect and aero a little as well. I am still unsure if they really do.
Body:
View attachment 99291
  • I cut out the back of the body. Hot air needs to get out easily. And as i had to cut out i little in the front to fit the battery it's not fully enclosed and i definitely not want it to catch air and go airborne.
  • Removed the little piece at the wheel arc that scrapes when the tyres expand.
  • Cut down the rear wing to it's lowest line, still leaving a little downforce as i speedrun on mediocre lenght of road.
Please feel free point out my stupid choices :)
Nothing stupid man it’s all coming together nicely.
Another little update:


View attachment 101117
  • I redid my wiring, 8mm bulletplugs everywhere.
  • Swapped most bearings with ceramic hybrids. Feels way smoother. It's 'most' because Arrma really locktighted the hell of some screws :(
  • Moved my batteries to the sideskirts (original body wont fit anymore) I don't want to 3d print the whole car as for weight and strength. Maybe i will print a mold then make it epoxy/fiber. I've done that before.
  • Got my hands on some ridiculous delta fan's (40x40x28) witch run on a separate 3s battery, so i can cool between runs and don't strain the ESC. They are noisy though. I've added some scoops to test the effect on aero/cooling, obviously it looks silly them being a-symmetrical.
View attachment 101121


Unfortunately speedruns are not going so well atm, during some earlier test(with different fan's) one of the motor wires in the esc let go and it's a nightmare to solder it back, thus every time i pull more than 200A it just let's go again. Seems like i need to upgrade my soldering station :(
Dude you could build an entire solid body for that!!
 
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