Rubber absorber for under the motor in a 6s

[Notorious J]

So using the old tire for the battery tray wasn't the end. I noticed that the motor has a bit of wiggle in it now. Tried tightening the screws but the damage is done. It's still holding ok in the mount, but I needed to support it if I want to get a bit more time out of the motor. Old backflip tire to the rescue. Perfect snug fit and won't move at all. Wish I had thought of it before and the damage might never have happened.

 

[Just a Basher]

Are you seeing wiggle in the motor shaft? or is it just some of the screws for the motor are bent?

My 4092 on my Yellow Kraton has definitely gotten familiar with the chassis. Still no issues with it (aside from my bad landings).

 

[crimsonfancy]

Motivated to get the thing back to bash is awesome. Interested to see temps going forward.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Arrma should put @Notorious J on the prototype model durability test team. Dude knows how to put a rig through its paces, and comes back ready for more.


Jason Dearden,
if you're reading this, make it happen.

 

[Notorious J]

Are you seeing wiggle in the motor shaft? or is it just some of the screws for the motor are bent?

My 4092 on my Yellow Kraton has definitely gotten familiar with the chassis. Still no issues with it (aside from my bad landings).
View attachment 47020

motor and shaft are ok. It's the screws that hold the cap on the pinion side that started breaking free. I tightened them before i put the motor back on, but when I ran it just to make sure everything was seated properly, i noticed they came loose again. The screws that holds the sliding part of the motor mount to the motor, are holding strong, so I think I'll have a bit of time left. Your damaged could be from the chassis flexing up a bit too. I guess when we make the decision to go hard and high, things are going to go eventually.

 

[crimsonfancy]

Arrma should put @Notorious J on the prototype model durability test team. Dude knows how to put a rig through its paces, and comes back ready for more.


Jason Dearden,
if you're reading this, make it happen.

No doubt. Free trucks inbound to NotoJ.

 

[Notorious J]

Arrma should put @Notorious J on the prototype model durability test team. Dude knows how to put a rig through its paces, and comes back ready for more.


Jason Dearden,
if you're reading this, make it happen.

Thanks for the props @Mr.Duke (I think). It wouldn't be fair to Arrma. There's nothing I can't break, so the R & D crew would all quit after the first week ???

 

[Mr.Duke]

Thanks for the props @Mr.Duke (I think). It wouldn't be fair to Arrma. There's nothing I can't break, so the R & D crew would all quit after the first week ???

It was props.
I respect your style of bashing

 

[Notorious J]

Check this out. Got tired

of the screws that attach the wing mount to the dif case always stripping the plastic out. Reversed the bolt direction and added a lock nut on the outside.

 

[crimsonfancy]

Thanks for the props @Mr.Duke (I think). It wouldn't be fair to Arrma. There's nothing I can't break, so the R & D crew would all quit after the first week ???

Imo, the more R&D that happens from the trenches is the most valuable. The end user is the guy I want to learn from. And if I were a designer or engineer that is grown out of the "wanna create art first" stage, he'd (the basher would) be the most valuable source.

 

[Lride Chart]

Not J that looks like a good start to maybe a more durable. I got so sick of that on the Kraton I went to the HR diff case for the rear.

 

[Notorious J]

It will only work with the RPM wing mounts @Lride Chart. They need to be flexible enough to bend them out of the way to get the screw in from the other side. If the wing mount breaks, and it will, I'm gonna have to come up with a different solution cause this way takes too long to get done. Love to tinker, so time well wasted.

 

[bicketybam]

It was props.
I respect your style of bashing

We call it crashing ?

It will only work with the RPM wing mounts @Lride Chart. They need to be flexible enough to bend them out of the way to get the screw in from the other side. If the wing mount breaks, and it will, I'm gonna have to come up with a different solution cause this way takes too long to get done. Love to tinker, so time well wasted.

Can't you fit the nut on the other side?

 

[GMballistic]

Regarding the motor @Notorious J ~ I think what they're all missing, as this isn't just an Arrma thing, is some sort of rear support.

Whether it be an actual bracket (possibly adjustable for different size/length motors) which goes all the way around the motor or some sort of under neath support like an aluminium wedge I don't know but really it would be a good idea to have something imho.

If you scaled up the size of everything I doubt there is a car/vehicle company/manufacturer in the world that would have a large heavy item like that held on by just two small bolts with no rear support especially considering the vehicles intended use. Eg. Bashing predominantly.

Some examples below of motor supports I found when looking.

Oh just to add J if you're not I'd add some blue Loctite to your motor mount screws which may help stop them from loosening after you've fitted them.

 

[Notorious J]

We call it crashing ?


Can't you fit the nut on the other side?

Nope. The space between the bulk head and where the mount attaches to that small brace stop won't allow you to get a nut in. Maybe if you shaved some of the bulkhead off. I'll try that next time. The screw would have to be an exact length though.

Regarding the motor @Notorious J ~ I think what they're all missing, as this isn't just an Arrma thing, is some sort of rear support.

Whether it be an actual bracket (possibly adjustable for different size/length motors) which goes all the way around the motor or some sort of under neath support like an aluminium wedge I don't know but really it would be a good idea to have something imho.

If you scaled up the size of everything I doubt there is a car/vehicle company/manufacturer in the world that would have a large heavy item like that held on by just two small bolts with no rear support especially considering the vehicles intended use. Eg. Bashing predominantly.

Some examples below of motor supports I found when looking.
View attachment 47036

View attachment 47037


Oh just to add J if you're not I'd add some blue Loctite to your motor mount screws which may help stop them from loosening after you've fitted them.

I do add Loctite, but the force is too great and something has to give. This time around, I think the damage was already done though. After tightening them up while having the motor out, the lid started to separate almost immediately. I like those ideas for supporting the motor, but a piece of rubber gets the job done.

 

[GMballistic]

I do add Loctite, but the force is too great and something has to give. This time around, I think the damage was already done though. After tightening them up while having the motor out, the lid started to separate almost immediately. I like those ideas for supporting the motor, but a piece of rubber gets the job done.

Yep a nice simple fix. Just as long as you don't let the motor get too hot and melt the rubber. Sure it will be fine.

 

[Notorious J]

Yep a nice simple fix. Just as long as you don't let the motor get too hot and melt the rubber. Sure it will be fine.

Well of course that will happen. It's the Notorious J truck. It's like Murphy's Law except it's called NJ's law. If something ridiculously stupid can happen to your rc truck, it surely will.???

 

[Notorious J]

Update. The rubber is a good idea. Just use a piece of tire small enough to be able to tie wrap it to the motor. Doesn't need to be more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch long. This will help reduce heat retention. So basically, two knobs of the tire tread deep and about the width of the running surface of the tire. Without the tie wrap, it will still fall out when the chassis flexes. Best to add it while the motor is off.

 

[olds97_lss]

Regarding the motor @Notorious J ~ I think what they're all missing, as this isn't just an Arrma thing, is some sort of rear support.

Whether it be an actual bracket (possibly adjustable for different size/length motors) which goes all the way around the motor or some sort of under neath support like an aluminium wedge I don't know but really it would be a good idea to have something imho.

If you scaled up the size of everything I doubt there is a car/vehicle company/manufacturer in the world that would have a large heavy item like that held on by just two small bolts with no rear support especially considering the vehicles intended use. Eg. Bashing predominantly.

Some examples below of motor supports I found when looking.
View attachment 47036

View attachment 47037


Oh just to add J if you're not I'd add some blue Loctite to your motor mount screws which may help stop them from loosening after you've fitted them.

There was a company that made an aftermarket support for the motor on the e-revo. HHP I think. I had it on my V1, but didn't try transplanting it to the V2 roller:

HPI uses bands wrapped around the motor to hold it down to the motor plate on the savage instead using the holes on the front:

It's annoying because it limits you to a specific motor size, but it could be designed differently to have a bolt on both sides of the motor vs just one. I had to grind one of them out with a dremel to fit it over the ribs on the castle 2200kv motor.

I always thought it was odd that so many brushless RC's only have screws through the front of the can as the only means of support for one of the longest/heaviest hunks of dead weight on these things.

 

[GMballistic]

I always thought it was odd that so many brushless RC's only have screws through the front of the can as the only means of support for one of the longest/heaviest hunks of dead weight on these things.

Couldn't agree more.
Even more surprising when you see some of the motor manufacturers only use small/thin M3 bolts on their motors.