Notorious Run Notorious stock outta box or upgrade weak parts 1st-what u all do?

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I am getting my 1st 6s today! Notorious V5 BLX. SO EXCITED!!!! :LOL: I did a lot of research and also ordered the parts that seem to break right away .....wing Mounts, a arms, etc. No electronics yet, just parts. Would you bash it stock and when those items break replace with the upgrades, or go ahead and replace them now with the stronger replacemens? I'm on the fence and was curious what everyone does and why. Appreciate it!!!
 
Go over the truck and make sure fasteners are tight, diffs are filled, pinion spur mesh is good, steering endpoints are set for properly.

If you’re going to go for big air, aluminum chassis braces (m2c for example) would be a good upgrade over the factory plastic braces. Otherwise go out and enjoy!
 
Thanks! Yup-yup....ordered those (m2c aluminum chassis braces)! I read the wing and wing mounts are notorious (pun intended! Lol) for being the 1st to break. Would you go ahead and just upgrade those plastic parts 1st or just when the stock plastic breaks? I know there's no right or wrong answer.....just curious what the pros do. ;) I'm considering replacing the braces, wing mounts, bearings (got ceramic ones), front bumper/skid plate and rear skid plates 1st. Then when a arms break replace them then. O...and also I'll add on the motor fan I got since I'll be pushing 6s out the box.
 
I have done it both ways lol. Some upgrades are too cool to wait on. but I am not a big basher, I’m a gentle rc’r I guess. I like wrenching but don’t like to purposely break my $1000+ rc’s for fun lol 😂.
 
I agree with @Engineer and @Alan.
I only use Ceramic BB's in my motors when the stockers are worn out.
Ceramics through the rest of the rig won't necessarily help you with a basher rig. They are best for 120+mph Speed Runner on road rigs. Money spent on Cerams wont really do anything for a basher. They are not any more durable, especially for the price point. Cerams still require maintenance like standard BB's. Spend that money elsewhere. There is nothing wrong with the stocker BB's. They will last as long as Cerams if you maintain them.
The stock Short Wheel base Noto chassis handles bashing well. I have not bent it at all. I use HR F/R braces. M2c's are fine also. My Long wheel base Kraton will bend/ fold at the chassis with big air. Replaced 3 chassis thus far.
The wing and wing mounts break from user error, especially in the beginning, while learning to drive it. They are designed to protect the rear shock tower and Bulkhead from direct impacts. Breaking them is normal if you always land or hit the rear. The stocker motor and ESC will be fine for a while. And HH will warranty them for 2 years if they brick on you. The motor also needs periodic maintenance. (10-15 runs) Open it, cleaning out with Electrical contact spray, BB's as well. Then a drop of synthetic oil on both BB's is all you need. I add oil to the BB's when the motor is brand new.(y) The new BB's are usually dry of any lube.
Like stated above, top off the Diffs and make sure the F/R diffs are shimmed well enough, or they will be the first items to fail. Factory assy is fast and has little attention to detail during production. Do this yourself before running the rig. Set Servo Endpoints at the radio .Manual in hand. There are Videos in regards and here on AF.
Let things break first before you start replacing parts.
Vent the tires at the tread and close off the inner wheel vents with tape. Tires will last longer. Tire Foams will last better.
I would buy Diff Oil right away. Need it on hand. Many, including myself run 60k cst front/500k cst Center/ 30k cst Rear. The best for all around bashing. Stock diff oils are way too thin and contribute to diffing out that results in loss of power and front tire ballooning which causes tire blow outs.
M2c braces should be installed first however, if anything.
I don't run in the wet. Yet many do. FWIW. Despite claims these rigs are WP. I find they are not. Electrics and water don't mix. From experience. Just me.
Enjoy.
:cool:
 
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Thanks guys!!!! Truly appreciate the advice!! Hope your day is "bashing" fun and that my delivery gets here soon!!!
Sean Flanagan Waiting GIF by FoilArmsandHog
 
Thanks guys!!!! Truly appreciate the advice!! Hope your day is "bashing" fun and that my delivery gets here soon!!!
Sean Flanagan Waiting GIF by FoilArmsandHog
Enjoy it!! If you want to upgrade wing mount get a @3d-rc.myshopify.com one. They simply don't break and come in some seriously awesome colors
 
I built my Outcast EXB ground up. Instead of buying the weak shock towers and chassis braces I decided to upgrade to GKA braces and towers. I would wait till you break something to upgrade. Enjoy!
 
I built my Outcast EXB ground up. Instead of buying the weak shock towers and chassis braces I decided to upgrade to GKA braces and towers. I would wait till you break something to upgrade. Enjoy!
Thanks! Not ready to build my own yet, but one day! Lol
Enjoy it!! If you want to upgrade wing mount get a @3d-rc.myshopify.com one. They simply don't break and come in some seriously awesome colors
Thanks! I already have upgraded ones coming but will def check them out for future/other rig upgrades! Appreciate it!
I agree with @Engineer and @Alan.
I only use Ceramic BB's in my motors when the stockers are worn out.
Ceramics through the rest of the rig won't necessarily help you with a basher rig. They are best for 120+mph Speed Runner on road rigs. Money spent on Cerams wont really do anything for a basher. They are not any more durable, especially for the price point. Cerams still require maintenance like standard BB's. Spend that money elsewhere. There is nothing wrong with the stocker BB's. They will last as long as Cerams if you maintain them.
The stock Short Wheel base Noto chassis handles bashing well. I have not bent it at all. I use HR F/R braces. M2c's are fine also. My Long wheel base Kraton will bend/ fold at the chassis with big air. Replaced 3 chassis thus far.
The wing and wing mounts break from user error, especially in the beginning, while learning to drive it. They are designed to protect the rear shock tower and Bulkhead from direct impacts. Breaking them is normal if you always land or hit the rear. The stocker motor and ESC will be fine for a while. And HH will warranty them for 2 years if they brick on you. The motor also needs periodic maintenance. (10-15 runs) Open it, cleaning out with Electrical contact spray, BB's as well. Then a drop of synthetic oil on both BB's is all you need. I add oil to the BB's when the motor is brand new.(y) The new BB's are usually dry of any lube.
Like stated above, top off the Diffs and make sure the F/R diffs are shimmed well enough, or they will be the first items to fail. Factory assy is fast and has little attention to detail during production. Do this yourself before running the rig. Set Servo Endpoints at the radio .Manual in hand. There are Videos in regards and here on AF.
Let things break first before you start replacing parts.
Vent the tires at the tread and close off the inner wheel vents with tape. Tires will last longer. Tire Foams will last better.
I would buy Diff Oil right away. Need it on hand. Many, including myself run 60k cst front/500k cst Center/ 30k cst Rear. The best for all around bashing. Stock diff oils are way too thin and contribute to diffing out that results in loss of power and front tire ballooning which causes tire blow outs.
M2c braces should be installed first however, if anything.
I don't run in the wet. Yet many do. FWIW. Despite claims these rigs are WP. I find they are not. Electrics and water don't mix. From experience. Just me.
Enjoy.
:cool:
Def appreciate all the details! This forum ROCKS!!!
 
Hopefully you purchased 3drc wing mount as a replacement factory mount wont do you much good. As a newer 6s owner myself, i HIGHLY suggest going through your diffs with shims and fluid. I ran mine out of the box and found the center diff basically empty, overheated, and destroyed the plastic diff case. Not a bad idea to go through and check loose bolts and screws, set endpoints, set droop screws.
 
Thanks! I did not but will look into it for future replacements/upgrades. I got the RPM wing mounts.
 
Hopefully you purchased 3drc wing mount as a replacement factory mount wont do you much good. As a newer 6s owner myself, i HIGHLY suggest going through your diffs with shims and fluid. I ran mine out of the box and found the center diff basically empty, overheated, and destroyed the plastic diff case. Not a bad idea to go through and check loose bolts and screws, set endpoints, set droop screws.
I find that as I got better at driving, my RPM and stocker wing mounts last much longer. User/driver error gets the best of them.
3drc mounts are great as everyone states. I never needed them yet. A worth while part no doubt.(y) Best out there.
I feel the flex of the Nylon RPM wing mounts, after boiling them in water for 15 min.,
takes much more abuse before they break/snap. The more rigid the wing mounts are, the more easily the Wing itself will break first.
Wings mounts cost less $$ than a Wing most of the time.

Edited.
 
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When your wing mounts are broken, another vote for 3drc one. Just going on feel I don't think anything short of trying to break it in your hands will kill it. It's held up great for me so far 💪 . They don't cost any more than than a stocker or rpm so it's almost a no brainer.

I'd use a skid plate for the bottom of the chassis if you're doing pavement runs/skatepark. I just use a cheap rpm one.

I think the EXB or any front bumper with a bumper loop/front cushion holds up to front heavy landings over stock. I destroyed the stock front bumper first week of ownership. Exb one has held up since.
 
I find that as I got better at driving, my RPM and stocker wing mounts last much longer. User/driver error gets the best of them.
3drc mounts are great as everyone states. I never needed them yet. A worth while part no doubt.(y) Best out there.
I feel the flex of the Nylon RPM wing mounts, after boiling them in water for 15 min.,
takes much more abuse before they break/snap. The more rigid the wing mounts are, the more easily the Wing itself will break first.
Wings mounts cost less $$ than a Wing most of the time.

Edited.
I had the same experience, the less crashing I did the less stuff I break lol.
 
You guys are all great thank you for the recommendations and the kind words don’t forget to use the Forum discount code hope you all have a wonderful day
 
I usually do all the OTB check over and just run it. If something breaks then replace or upgrade. Having extra parts ahead of time is always good, no down time.
 
My philosophy is to add only protective upgrades (bumpers, skids) and address obvious weak points initially. You got excellent and concise advice in the first reply and I would heed that. The problems you're most likely to run into are related to factory oversights. Beyond that, plastic chassis braces are the most significant known weakness of the 6s vehicles. You may also find that the motor needs additional cooling depending on where and how hard you run.
 
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