Kraton Running Single Battery

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Pipercam

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If i chose to run just one single 4s or 6s do i need to do anything different with the battery leads on the car? Do i just put the blank dummy plug in that came with the car or not even necessary?
 
SMC just confirmed single pack 6s 7400 mAh with specs to fit Kraton V3 battery box will be available at end of January. Should be a perfect weight and size. I’m holding out for 3 of those as my short term experience with the 4s 6200 mAh 90c was awesome! SMC will have the perfect 4&6s solution. Dynamite Duo 400w Charger and a couple of paraboards and my life just got so simple.
 
I only use single batteries so I've removed all the extra leaving just one male XT90 straight to ESC.
This, X4 or 5 or whatever. If you know you will be only running single bricks, then go ahead and remove that "future potential problem". :) If you can do basic soldering, it is a quick and easy job.
 
This, X4 or 5 or whatever. If you know you will be only running single bricks, then go ahead and remove that "future potential problem". :) If you can do basic soldering, it is a quick and easy job.
What future potential problem?
 
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Always remember to measure twice (or thrice) cut once.. :rolleyes: There's a nice video on u2b on how to solder wire ends together by wrapping the joint with copper wire before tinning.
 
That extra plug. If you are only planning on using 4s or 6s "Bricks", then that extra plug with the loop jumper is just gonna live bouncing around inside your car, and can/probably will end up causing some kind of problem down the road. Problems like this one (from the Talion board) - https://arrmaforum.com/threads/xt90-loop-key-fryed-through.5552/#post-53772

Yea I'm the guy from the talion board... just burnt through another xt90 loop key running 4s... Gonna go with solder solution for sure.
 
Could someone please post a pic of which wire to cut and solder to eliminate the extra plug with loop connector
 
You need to end up with one connector. Its (+) and (-) must be connected to the ESC's (+) and (-) and sorry, but if that's not clear to you, you should let someone else do it. BTW I wouldn't cut anything, desolder-resolder.
 
Cheers for the r reply. Am I able to just take the lead (B) out and connect it to plug (A) to end up with the one plug?
 

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Cheers for the r reply. Am I able to just take the lead (B) out and connect it to plug (A) to end up with the one plug?
Yes, you simply can punch the wire connectors out of the orange plug. You will remove one connector and the short wire from the harness and end with just one connector.
 
Soldering iron. Remove the jumper between the plugs, unsolder the (-) from the (-) plug, and solder it to the (-) on the (+) plug...
Sorry, I'm a soldering newbie. I don't see a way to get this wire out of the plug. Do I just cut the wire? Is there a way to de-solder it from the plug? If so, how do you remove it from the plug so it can be de-soldered? I don't want to melt the plastic plug.
 
The tapered back end of the plug snaps off, and slides down the wires. The exposes the solder terminals... Heat them, and the wire will fall off. Be sure and thread the new wire thru the cover before you solder it. (Done that, oops :banghead:)

Also, it is helpful if you have a spare plug to plug into the one you are working on. This can help that if you get it too hot, and the plastic gets soft, the second plug will keep everything lined up till it cools.

Also, before you start, it may be a good idea to mark the (+) wire with some red tape. With both the + and - wires black, if you cut both, it can be easy to solder the new plug wrong...
 
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