Safe D pinion

No problems. As long as the flat spot on the motor shaft is long enough. So, it might not fit all motors.
I’m getting the 4985 motor for my sledge with reverse motor mount. I’ve had nothing but pinion after pinion fall off so I might try it with my sledge and k6s exb
 
Have to loctite the pinion down either way. If blue is not enough go to red. Just know with red you will have to heat up the grub screw to get it off. Small torch or even a soldering iron will work.
 
I’m getting the 4985 motor for my sledge with reverse motor mount. I’ve had nothing but pinion after pinion fall off so I might try it with my sledge and k6s exb
Uh-oh. I just changed the pinion on my Sledge, cleaned the threads, and used blue Loctite on the new grub screw. But I'm nervous about that loosening up.

On my helis, with outrunner brushless motors, I found it easy to get the grub screw lined up properly. I'd hold the motor can (which is attached to the shaft), and wiggle it back and forth, while tightening the grub screw. Ensuring the screw was pretty much exactly perpendicular to the flat on the shaft, since it would tighten more as the grub screw went perpendicular.

But with this inrunner motor, that was tougher. I can't directly control the motor shaft, so I tried to wiggle it while tightening, but that may have just been the motor shaft itself rotating back and forth. Afterwards I realized maybe I could grab the end of the shaft, on the flat, with pliers, and secure the shaft that way. If the pinion comes loose, I'll give that a try.

I've heard some mixed feedback on the Safe D setup, but I dunno, it sounds pretty nice to me!
 
Have to loctite the pinion down either way. If blue is not enough go to red. Just know with red you will have to heat up the grub screw to get it off. Small torch or even a soldering iron will work.
Word. I do enjoy red for pinion thx
Uh-oh. I just changed the pinion on my Sledge, cleaned the threads, and used blue Loctite on the new grub screw. But I'm nervous about that loosening up.

On my helis, with outrunner brushless motors, I found it easy to get the grub screw lined up properly. I'd hold the motor can (which is attached to the shaft), and wiggle it back and forth, while tightening the grub screw. Ensuring the screw was pretty much exactly perpendicular to the flat on the shaft, since it would tighten more as the grub screw went perpendicular.

But with this inrunner motor, that was tougher. I can't directly control the motor shaft, so I tried to wiggle it while tightening, but that may have just been the motor shaft itself rotating back and forth. Afterwards I realized maybe I could grab the end of the shaft, on the flat, with pliers, and secure the shaft that way. If the pinion comes loose, I'll give that a try.

I've heard some mixed feedback on the Safe D setup, but I dunno, it sounds pretty nice to me!
Would a vice suffice?
Oh btw I’m using vitavon reverse motor Mount for sledge I need my setup anodized lol
 
Would a vice suffice?
Oh btw I’m using vitavon reverse motor Mount for sledge I need my setup anodized lol
A vise would certainly be strong enough. I think the "toothy" jaws on mine would likely dent the underside of the motor shaft, which could make it tough to slide the pinion off. I could grind a small, second flat, opposite the first one. Giving vise-grips, etc, a nice place to grab, which would also avoid sticking against the pinion, if the steel got distorted slightly (since it would be recessed, relative to the rest of the shaft surface).

If the pinion comes loose, I'll probably start simple, and try pliers or vise-grips. And I should have probably removed the motor from the truck, to make it easier to access. I had left the motor wires attached, since they're zip-tied to the chassis.

Oh, I used blue Loctite on my grub screw. But I could also switch to my orange Permatex, which is supposed to be stronger, but does not require heat to remove (unlike red).
 
A vise would certainly be strong enough. I think the "toothy" jaws on mine would likely dent the underside of the motor shaft, which could make it tough to slide the pinion off. I could grind a small, second flat, opposite the first one. Giving vise-grips, etc, a nice place to grab, which would also avoid sticking against the pinion, if the steel got distorted slightly (since it would be recessed, relative to the rest of the shaft surface).

If the pinion comes loose, I'll probably start simple, and try pliers or vise-grips. And I should have probably removed the motor from the truck, to make it easier to access. I had left the motor wires attached, since they're zip-tied to the chassis.

Oh, I used blue Loctite on my grub screw. But I could also switch to my orange Permatex, which is supposed to be stronger, but does not require heat to remove (unlike red).
I need to look into the orange! Yea man I use rough grit sand paper for my motor shaft. Usually helps a tad. I use zip ties for everything. #ziptieking
 
So.
I just wanted to try the 22t Safe-D, that was on my 4985 motor, on my 1520 motor and it wouldn't fit.
The 20t i removed from the 1520 was also a Safe-D pinion and fit no problem.
I guess tolerances aren't consistent.
 
So.
I just wanted to try the 22t Safe-D, that was on my 4985 motor, on my 1520 motor and it wouldn't fit.
The 20t i removed from the 1520 was also a Safe-D pinion and fit no problem.
I guess tolerances aren't consistent.
What car do you run with the 1520? It’s an interesting motor.
 
I have two Mojaves.
The first one is running the HW4985 and MMX8S now. The 1520 and MMX6S are in my second i just built.
I run them both mostly on 4S, because 6S power is ridiculously fast with these motors.
Can you tell a big difference between the two when driving?
 
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