Mojave Sandracer_NL - Mojave EXB build

Sandracer_NL

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Figured out the link did not work to build thread is signature; did not select RC Build log🤦‍♂️. So copied both posts from yesterday and continue from there.

Finally! Looking so forward to getting it ready to run. It looks so [email protected] good, almost a shame to get is dirty/scratched😂. Ah well worries for later.
Made two nameplates for the remote, one was MOJAVE, but installed the other one😄.
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And next to its’ little sand loving brother. Will definitely try those wheels on the Mo at least to see how it looks.
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Ok. Let’s start disassembling. Need to keep telling myself to take my time (‘battle plan‘ isn’t 100% written in stone yet, but will figure it out along the way🤞). Baby steps, and since this also part of the fun in the hobby; the longer it keeps me busy and thinking the longer the fun, right???😂
To be continued...

OK, electronics.
All from the spares bin: primarily purchased as spares for the Kraton and DR8, but quite frankly also in case a MEXB would be purchased🤫.

- Motor:
Leopard 4082 2000kv. Replaced stock bearings with ceramic ones. Covered end cap bearing opening with gorilla tape and covered front cap completely with gorilla tape, except for the 2 motor screws. A 4082 with only M3 screws??🤷‍♂️
Tapped motor screws M3 to M4; found out was tapping was on this forum 👍, and bought a hand tap set to give it a try. Seems to have worked, but will need to see if it actually fits the motor mount🤞

- ESC
Hobbywing WP-8BL150. Basically the BLX185 and also have it in the DR8. So far flawless.

- Servo
DS3225. One thing that I don’t like about this is the servo arm that I stripped one out due to the tiny hex1.5 screws coming lose, so won’t be using those servo arms anymore. Bought one piece servo arms, but MEXB also came with a servo arm👌

- Transmitter/receiver
DumboRC 6CH. I like them, especially after I put foam on the turning wheel and tape on the handle. Better fit and grip.

Now preparing chassis to fill all unused openings.

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Sandracer_NL

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After waiting for the expoxy to dry (all unused chassis holes are filled) I wrapped the chassis. Instead of using carbon I did on the Kraton and DR8 I thought let’s try a wooden look. Apart from a different look I also have a feeling the wrap acts as a gasket around the diff housing.
Did not uncover the battery tray holes yet, because I ordered a couple of trays to try making my own tray; I do not like Arrma’s battery trays.
The body got fiber tape and rubber seal around the edges and the body posts. It’s dry now, so I can start peeling the masking tape off.
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Sandracer_NL

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Worked on the helmets today and mesh for the side ‘windows. Really liking how it turned out 👍😛
Also did the diffs today, center and front had max LSD effect, back minimum effect. Kept that, but was shocked how low the fluids were: center about half full, front and rear more like a quarter😳.
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Sandracer_NL

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A few things done; see pics below.
- Decided to keep the battery tray, but wrapped it😀.
- Gave the rims a darker grey look (stock was a bit toy grey IMO)
- Painted the tires’ lettering.
- Covered the vents that were in the wheels with rubber seal
- I couldn’t help it to fit one side with MT wheels. Since they are a bit wider with have offset the need body trimming. That’s a no go for now; body looks to good.😀
Need to attach the esc on/off switch with tape and set steering EPA and we’re almost good to go.

Now waiting on Scorched fenders, bumper and lights.

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Sandracer_NL

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That wood look is just awesome especially when on your table 🤣 I can't workout where the chassis is vs the table..😉🤣🤣🤣
Love the attention to detail with the wooden Arrma logo on the rx case 👍🏼
Thanks👍
You’re right. When I took the picture I thought “I think I just made it wooden camo style”🤣
 

Sandracer_NL

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Made a roof plate to attach the light bar which is ridiculously bright👍. Didn’t want to cut the nice body.
And installed shock boots (why it doesn’t come stock 🤷‍♂️). Not sure if I‘m also going to put shock socks on them that I bought for the Kraton.
Still waiting on Scorched fenders and front bumper.
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Doom!

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Nope, you have to cut a small hole to route those light bar wires through. It looks too cool have the wires stuck through the window. You could make the hole right under the plate, seal it with silicone and nobody will ever see it.

And maybe a plastic skid plate for the top of the light bar to protect the bolts from damage if she rolls.
 
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