Kraton Savox 1211sg not turning wheels on Arrma Kraton

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Jerbear1018

Jerbear1018

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fazon
  2. Granite
Hey guys so I got a Savox 1211sg for my Arrma Kraton and it is not working properly. It seems like it has no torque to turn the wheels and it makes a weird noise all the time like a flutter noise. Also when turning left the wheels lock and it won't turn the other way. Please if anyone can help please let me know any ideas or if you we'll have ever had these problems.
 
@Jerbear1018 a couple things to check, the first sounds like the steering is getting caught up somewhere so check all the linkage and see where it's getting caught. Also check your servo saver.

Lastly you mention it doesn't have any torque, are you using the stock servo mount or an upgraded aluminum mount? If you're not using an aluminum mount then do so and you'll see a big difference.
 
WoodiE said:
@Jerbear1018 a couple things to check, the first sounds like the steering is getting caught up somewhere so check all the linkage and see where it's getting caught. Also check your servo saver.

Lastly you mention it doesn't have any torque, are you using the stock servo mount or an upgraded aluminum mount? If you're not using an aluminum mount then do so and you'll see a big difference.
Click to expand...
I checked my servo saver and adjusted it but the new servo seems like it does not have any torque. When I put the car in the air and turn the wheels it turns very easily and fast but when I put it on the ground it doesn't want to turn. You can here the servo working but it is not turning the wheels like it doesn't have enough power or something.
 
I just blew out my 3rd servo and this one was the upgraded one all I did was took it on a test run for 5 mins to test the servo and it came out burning hot. I'm not sure what is going on but my car is eating threw all of these servos.
 
Get a savox 1270, way stronger :p
Forget about waterproof models, you ain't going to go submarine mode with it.

Maybe your ESC doesn't provide the right power too. Might check with another ESC if you can.
 
I notice that servo is a 42mm high dimension. With that height, it would require some spacing above the mount, and throws off the geometry of the servo links. It should work if you make the appropriate corrections. I went from the 1231sg to the 1256tg becasue I wanted something that just fit properly like stock. It works just fine.

My experience is that even with a servo mount upgrade, there is so much play in the links and tires that when it's sitting on the ground, the tires don't move much, but when you actually drive, it's just fine. This is the same with pretty much any MT RC. As long as it turns well when you drive, no worries.
 
Jerbear1018 said:
I just blew out my 3rd servo and this one was the upgraded one all I did was took it on a test run for 5 mins to test the servo and it came out burning hot. I'm not sure what is going on but my car is eating threw all of these servos.
Click to expand...

This indicates something wrong with the vehicle or perhaps driving style, honestly though using the stock servo in an aftermarket mount would have lead to reduced life anyway due to the gears already being a bit on the fragile side. Couple of questions though:
If you remove the servo from the equation, is there any binding in the steering?
What size wheel and tires are you running?
What voltage were you operating the savox servo on? I believe the 1211 is upto 7.4v which adds a good bit of extra torque...
Have you checked the ESC output voltage?
Have you thought about using an aftermarket BEC or separate radio battery?
 
jonUF02 said:
I notice that servo is a 42mm high dimension. With that height, it would require some spacing above the mount, and throws off the geometry of the servo links. It should work if you make the appropriate corrections. I went from the 1231sg to the 1256tg becasue I wanted something that just fit properly like stock. It works just fine.

My experience is that even with a servo mount upgrade, there is so much play in the links and tires that when it's sitting on the ground, the tires don't move much, but when you actually drive, it's just fine. This is the same with pretty much any MT RC. As long as it turns well when you drive, no worries.
Click to expand...

I use the 1210SG and it's taller than stock. Here is where my spacers went to make it all good. Very little play in my steering. Too much for a race buggy, but for a basher MT, it's pretty tight.

Kraton 3

Kraton 3

GKA servo mount and hardware
Kraton 4

Kraton 4

Spacer for the steering linkage
 
nic_a said:
This indicates something wrong with the vehicle or perhaps driving style, honestly though using the stock servo in an aftermarket mount would have lead to reduced life anyway due to the gears already being a bit on the fragile side. Couple of questions though:
If you remove the servo from the equation, is there any binding in the steering?
What size wheel and tires are you running?
What voltage were you operating the savox servo on? I believe the 1211 is upto 7.4v which adds a good bit of extra torque...
Have you checked the ESC output voltage?
Have you thought about using an aftermarket BEC or separate radio battery?
Click to expand...
What do you mean by binding? I am running on 6s with 2 5200 mah 11.1v lipo batteries and also a glitch buster. I am running stock wheels and tires and I did not check the esc voltage.
 
Jerbear1018 said:
What do you mean by binding? I am running on 6s with 2 5200 mah 11.1v lipo batteries and also a glitch buster. I am running stock wheels and tires and I did not check the esc voltage.
Click to expand...

For binding, if you disconnect the servo arm and just leave it hanging then manual steer the wheels, they should do so very easily. If not as a first port of call i would look at the manual regarding torque procedures for the steering block ball links. If the servo is still functional you could gain an extra 40-50 oz-in if you power the servo with the higher voltage of 7.4v.
 
nic_a said:
For binding, if you disconnect the servo arm and just leave it hanging then manual steer the wheels, they should do so very easily. If not as a first port of call i would look at the manual regarding torque procedures for the steering block ball links. If the servo is still functional you could gain an extra 40-50 oz-in if you power the servo with the higher voltage of 7.4v.
Click to expand...
I did take the servo arm off to see if the wheels would turn easily manually and they were turning perfectly fine with no problem at all. And how do I run my servo at a higher voltage?
 
Jerbear1018 said:
I did take the servo arm off to see if the wheels would turn easily manually and they were turning perfectly fine with no problem at all. And how do I run my servo at a higher voltage?
Click to expand...

Double check but I believe that particular servo is rated to 7.4v, this can be provided by a separate 2 cell radio battery or an external BEC that can be adjusted such as the castle creations BEC. The CC BEC needs a castle link programmer to adjust it but others may not. Digital servos can get pretty hot however it is possible your servo was defective,
 
Have you checked to make sure your servo saver is tight enough?? Mine keeps working loose and it give the impression that the servo isn't turning the tires. Worth checking out.
 
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