Limitless Scorched RC or TRC center shafts

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Luigibell78

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Outcast 4s
  3. Typhon TLR
Can anyone give any input on which is better if one IS better than the other? Both made from titanium. They both look quite good. One made in USA...other is coming from the UK.

They are roughly the same cost after shipping and currency conversion ( to canada)
 
I don't have them. But Scorched RC seems popular. If they are wider, make sure they will clear the F/R chassis braces. The fatter drive shafts can hit or rub the braces. Never heard of TRC in the states. Team Raffe from Hong Kong?? I couldn't locate those TRC's in any search.
Can you send me a link for the TRC center shafts?
 
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I don't have them. But Scorched RC seems popular. If they are wider, make sure they will clear the F/R chassis braces. The fatter drive shafts can hit or rub the braces. Never heard of TRC in the states. Team Raffe from Hong Kong?? I couldn't locate those TRC's in any search.
Can you send me a link for the TRC center shafts?
https://www.facebook.com/trcperformancerc/
 
I seen on Youtube that:
Kevin Talbot have received Scorsched Titanium driveline to his Worlds fastet RC Car 203mph project.
The car is Infraction.
The Parts look amazing he said, Scorsched Parts made great work to these parts Talbot says.

Luigibell, i have only read good things about Scorsched Parts.
Newer heard of TRCPERFOMANCE.

I would go with Scorched in this case without any doubts.
 
I seen on Youtube that:
Kevin Talbot have received Scorsched Titanium driveline to his Worlds fastet RC Car 203mph project.
The car is Infraction.
The Parts look amazing he said, Scorsched Parts made great work to these parts Talbot says.

Luigibell, i have only read good things about Scorsched Parts.
Newer heard of TRCPERFOMANCE.

I would go with Scorched in this case without any doubts.
Yeah My Lim is a also the Worlds fastest 203mph car.
And like KT's mine never made it that fast. :ROFLMAO:
On his initial build, he used 2 direct driven motors attached to the input drive cups. Motors setup in opposite rotation. No gearing reduction or pinions and spurs. No center spool or diff. There were no Scorched RC center shafts on it that I recall. ?‍♂️
 
Yeah My Lim is a also the Worlds fastest 203mph car.
And like KT's mine never made it that fast. :ROFLMAO:
On his initial build, he used 2 direct driven motors attached to the input drive cups. Motors setup in opposite rotation. No gearing reduction or pinions and spurs. No center spool or diff. There were no Scorched RC center shafts on it that I recall. ?‍♂️

He got them like last week.
Check new latest update on that build.
He will build with new motors. And ESC now.
He shows also the Scorched Titanium drive line he will put in there soon.

Go watch his channel now, and his latest video about this project
 
^^^
Ok ty.
Titanium Driveshafts are cost prohibitive for me.
Somewhat Lighter, yet must be much wider to have similar strength to steel. More rotating mass also. So weight reduction is offset by TI needing more mass. Wider tends to be an issue with F/R chassis braces. I just use upgrade hardened steel center shafts. GPMs or whatever. They are just a tad thicker over stock. yet fit. BTW, its the rear driveshaft that is the issue on these rigs. the front is not. If I considered Ti, It might be only the rear one. But they are sold in F/R $pairs$.
 
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^^^
Ok ty.
Titanium Driveshafts are cost prohibitive for me.
Somewhat Lighter, yet must be much wider to have similar strength to steel. More rotating mass also. So weight reduction is offset by TI needing more mass. Wider tends to be an issue with F/R chassis braces. I just use upgrade hardened steel center shafts. GPMs or whatever. They are just a tad thicker over stock. yet fit. BTW, its the rear driveshaft that is the issue on these rigs. the front is not. If I considered Ti, It might be only the rear one. But they are sold in F/R $pairs$.
Sounds good to me.....?
 
TRC performance shafts are nicely made, I got 3 sets of them and haven't had any issues with them as of yet. I never had scorched shafts to compare but haven’t heard any bad reviews on them too.

ED0E8E43-D67E-49CD-93DD-A8599C711331.jpeg
 
These look like amazing quality. I love the video on their facebook page of the long shaft running in a lathe unloaded on one side. Spins as true as you could ask for. Nice work to TRC!! Contacting them for a set of shafts this morning...
 
Have those also...... 👍 👍 👍
I got a rcawd rear shaft installed. On a 6s bench test the stock shaft definitely has a wobble and deforms on deceleration.

The rcawd shaft does the same but much less. For the price it's good enough.👍
I felt the same way about the RCAWD shafts. A modest upgrade at a modest cost.

BTW, I tried the Ball Bearing Drive shaft support found on the V2 Infr, Fel.
Do yourself a favor and don't get them. If you have a V2, take it off ASAP. IMHO. The bearings lasted about 2 Speed passes at only 84MPH in my LIM. Bearing Seals exploded on both bearings, and bearings got loose and scored the Shaft. 🤷‍♂️Did more damage and made a crap load of noise. Waste of $12. trying it out on the stock Lim. rear shaft. Just take them off on your V2's, Get a better rear shaft. I felt speed took a hit also, from the friction against the shaft. What was Arrma thinking. That Band-Aid fix is useless in the V2's.(n)(n)
 
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Have those also...... 👍 👍 👍

I felt the same way about the RCAWD shafts. A modest upgrade at a modest cost.

BTW, I tried the Ball Bearing Drive shaft support found on the V2 Infr, Fel.
Do yourself a favor and don't get them. If you have a V2, take it off ASAP. IMHO. The bearings lasted about 2 Speed passes at only 84MPH in my LIM. Bearing Seals exploded on both bearings, and bearings got loose and scored the Shaft. 🤷‍♂️Did more damage and made a crap load of noise. Waste of $12. trying it out on the stock Lim. rear shaft. Just take them off on your V2's, Get a better rear shaft. I felt speed took a hit also, from the friction against the shaft. What was Arrma thinking. That Band-Aid fix is useless in the V2's.(n)(n)
Did you try the plastic bearing support or the RCAWD one? The aluminum support works for me on the shock shaft, the plastic one just slaps the driveshaft around. I agree it's a bad bandaid.

I always wonder if a 5/6mm shaft that can get a carrier bearing through it would be any better...
 
I absolutely saw both options and felt the stock plastic was worth a try. $12. vs.$19.) I even changed out the bearings and used double sided tape to keep the bracket and Bearings square with the Drive shaft. I cant see how the Alloy one would be any better. I did use a brand new stock shaft with this. Absolutely straight. My other 2 bent. I wanted to see just what Arrma was doing here. The RCAWD and GPM's and are thicker. I have them here also to go with. I would pass on the that Arrma part. I don't feel having 2 bearings against the driveshaft is efficient at all. Im running HW ESC/2200kv/ 6s, 28/34 gears on my Lim. Arrma should have moved the motor mount rearward aprix 10-15mm and shortened the rear shaft by that amount. No more issues IMHO. But now they are committed to this chassis design. They should make a better Driveshaft instead of making a cheap 3 dollar part as a Band-Aid and now included it in the V2 stuff.( Infr and Felony) The current Limitless still has not been revised and doesn't come with it. FWIW.

Edit. Since this driveshaft is a dog bone you cant use a bearing around it. It needs to float to some extent because of the dog bones in their cups. (Play) Perhaps a CVD setup at both ends would work better.
 
The rubbery plastic support probably takes a between the chassis and shaft.

The aluminum version keeps getting marked up, I got it for $12 or it was on sale or something. I thought it was worth that much.
 
I agree with you. I tried it out. Because wanted to see how bad Arrmas fix would be. I have RCAwD shafts and Amped RC 8mm shafts here. This thread got me motivated to install the AMPED RC shafts and matching F/R braces. Need the braces. My HR braces would rub the shafts. took me 20 min. Done playing around with the stock shafts. I will put the RC Awd in the Infr. With the HR braces. the Amped RC shafts were $92.plus shipping. For the pair. RC awd shafts and can be purchased separately. honestly, you only need the rear shaft. I use SS springs at the center spool output cups. Keeps the shafts in position better.

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^^^ I've built many race kits before and O-rings or spring are sometimes used behind dog bones in general. 👍

The RCawd shafts are 1mm thicker at 6mm over stock and like 2-3 mm longer. The added length was intentional according to RcAWD. They are fairly cheap and you can just buy the rear shaft. (which is really the only one you need)
By contrast, the Markhor/ Amped Rc 8mm wide Shafts(come in pairs only) are actually 2mm shorter in length FWIW to those considering.....

BTW the Amped driveshafts pins are not positioned exactly 90 degrees at each end to each other like the stock and Rcawd are. 🤷‍♂️ If it matters. In theory it does matter.🤷‍♂️ The shaft pins should be indexed properly from end to end.🤷‍♂️
 
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