Kraton Screws in pastic coming loose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cobalt172

Member
Messages
374
Reaction score
161
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
I have chronic issues with screws that go into plastic parts coming loose.

Is blue or green threadlock appropriate?
 
Which screws and are the threads stripped? I cant say that I’ve had them back out on plastic parts. Aluminum yes but plastic should hold good and not back out.
 
I have chronic issues with screws that go into plastic parts coming loose.

Is blue or green threadlock appropriate?
NEVER ever use any threadlock on plastic or even near plastic. Period. :) You will regret it. It is an inappropriate idea. E6000 (ShooGoo) is the better choice as a temporary fix. Or replace the stripped part altogether. TL will make the stripped threads brittle and work completely against you. TL only "locks" metal to metal fasteners.:) Many here talk about how they use it for stripped plastic. Don't do it. This is basic RC stuff to know.
 
Last edited:
Yup I knew threadlock was bad but wasnt sure. I'll do the plumbers tape
 
Nothing wrong with asking first.
Many have stated they use it. That is wrong to do.
Good that your gut feeling questioned it first.(y)
Was out bashing once, and stripped a screw bashing hard. I found a small twig to put in the hole and re-screwed it, and it has held ever since. :LOL:
Anything can work. Just not TL. T. Tape is commonly used. But the screw can back out depending where you are using it and how long the screw is. I tend to use E6000. That's a personal call.
 
#1 cause for loose screws in plastic is over tightening, make sure that you do not use an electrical screwdriver for the tightening. Do it by hand and do it lightly. Remember that after 'just tight' comes 'always loose'. :geek:
 
#1 cause for loose screws in plastic is over tightening, make sure that you do not use an electrical screwdriver for the tightening. Do it by hand and do it lightly. Remember that after 'just tight' comes 'always loose'. :geek:
This^ another reason though, even for people that take care when tightening screws, when our trucks start to get old the plastic compound doesn’t really hold the screws as well when it gets over 2 years in age.
 
Holes will strip from use, removing and reinstalling. Just wear and tear. But what I find frustrating is that new out of box I can always find at least one factory stripped screw if not more. I check all fasteners when new before use. And I always find at least one. This happens to many other brand RTR's. Arrma's warranty will always oblige and replace anything stripped from Mfr. assembly. Just check all when new.
FYI, the factory uses power tools. Mass production requires it. Hence, some stripped plastics on RTR's here and there.
I use power drivers with MIP tips for removal. When installing I start with MIP hand driver, and if a long fastener, use the power driver, then tighten by hand. A slow speed wont melt the plastic as some state. Factory assembly fresh cuts most metal to plastic threading, and works for them. I see no problem with power drivers. Maybe its a feel and learning curve one has to master?:unsure:
If not accustomed to handling power drivers before and in general, then perhaps you should not use them, at least right away.:unsure: But it is a real time saver. (and a hand saver:))
 
Last edited:
Screws into plastic on 6s BLX, I just use longer screws than standard..
Example.. If I remember correctly the ESC mount screws are 8mm I've replaced all mine with 12mm..?? If you do put longer screws though be sure they don't bottom out and break stuff..!!

But I've never had any screws in plastic backout, not even standard ones ?
 
Did the same with the body mounts always stripping out. I measured the depth of the holes and found I could put a 5mm longer screw in. The mounts are way better now. I noticed there are many screws that can be much longer and should be. Just measure the depth of the hole first. I usually stick a 1.5mm driver in the hole and measure that length and find the longer screw to use there. I've done that all over my chassis. The rig becomes much stronger overall. A screw kit from JennysRC is cheap enough to have on hand for this purpose. Just don't go too long of course. Even 1mm over length can be too long. Measure twice, screw once.;)
 
That was my recurring issue for an upper suspension arm - the pillow ball kept backing out. Plumber's tape didn't help, E6000 didn't help, but replacing the arm replaced those broken threads, so now it's fine, with no teflon tape nor glue needed - just don't overtighten metal screws in plastic members.
 
easiest way to do this: put hot glue on screw, screw it in, let it dry. or use super glue, but hot glue is better cause it is more removable
 
I've had luck with CA (superglue). E6000 works too but CA sets almost instantly. It kinda repairs the threads.
 
That was my recurring issue for an upper suspension arm - the pillow ball kept backing out. Plumber's tape didn't help, E6000 didn't help, but replacing the arm replaced those broken threads, so now it's fine, with no teflon tape nor glue needed - just don't overtighten metal screws in plastic members.
Once the threads are stripped, you are on borrowed time no matter glue or TT. Especially PB's. Just replace the part.
 
You could always use retaining compound on stripped holes. If I have a hole that is just old I will drop some fishing line in it and snugs everything up. Again you are only on borrowed time.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top