Kraton screws seizing up.

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Vanning

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Arrma RC's
Every time I go to remove these screws for the center diff, they are seized up. No loctite is on them. I'm to the point now that I may put never seize on them. Then just keep an eye on the tightness.
 

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Do they just POP loose then spin out freely or are the threads themselves tight? You might have found the useful service life of the motor mounts. Betcha you had it apart no less than 1000 times, lol.

If anything, there's no need to keep reapplying threadlock.
 
. The parts are brand new and the screws are brand new installed with zero loctite. I could not turn the screws out. Ran my Kraton about 4 times on the new parts . If I can break them loose, you hear a pop or a snap sound. Somehow they get jammed or seized.
 
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Yeah something reacts quick on those screws and that is something that might be causing it .. At first I thought it was the loctite, cheap hardware and worn tools. Now I have new mounts, new screws, no loctite, good tools and the screws are Installed just snug. After a few runs I go to pull the motor out. Well......

Finally after ripping the skin off my hands, they just free up with severe stress on everything. I know I don't put them in that tight. Now I'll try the anti seize for a while to see what happens.

I really think they get stuck from the tapered portion... so I put the never seize on that and a little on the threads. Idk.
 
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Yup.... it's crazy. Plus that part gets jolted and hot. Doesn't seem normal but it's obviously happening.... even without loctite.

I thought I would mention what I was experiencing. I know we all hate when those screws get stripped.
 
Yeah something reacts quick on those screws and that is something that might be causing it .. At first I thought it was the loctite, cheap hardware and worn tools. Now I have new mounts, new screws, no loctite, good tools and the screws are Installed just snug. After a few runs I go to pull the motor out. Well......

Finally after ripping the skin off my hands, they just free up with severe stress on everything. I know I don't put them in that tight. Now I'll try the anti seize for a while to see what happens.

I really think they get stuck from the tapered portion... so I put the never seize on that and a little on the threads. Idk.

Gotcha on the new everything. So if you tighten the screws down and then loosen them right back up, there's no binding? If that's the case then like you said, there must be the stress from the heat and torquing of mounts seizing the face of screw to chassis. Dang 6s power, grŕrr.

Is the plating on the chassis still on the countersunk holes? If not then that would make sense with the dissimilar metals fusing together like 72z15SS stated.

That antiseize is good stuff. It should cure all sticky metal issues.
 
Gotcha on the new everything. So if you tighten the screws down and then loosen them right back up, there's no binding? If that's the case then like you said, there must be the stress from the heat and torquing of mounts seizing the face of screw to chassis. Dang 6s power, grŕrr.

Is the plating on the chassis still on the countersunk holes? If not then that would make sense with the dissimilar metals fusing together like 72z15SS stated.

That antiseize is good stuff. It should cure all sticky metal issues.
I agree with the anti-seize on the tapers of the screws. Probably a big help later on.
 
I used to use Loctite, then stopped, then stopped tightening past slightly snug? Still have to battle with a few of them every time I take it apart. I pull the whole center out everytime I change or adjust the pinion, just find it much easier that way.
 
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